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Well we have arrived in Cape Town safe and well, comfortable flight but not a patch on Sri Lankan Airlines who Sarah and I had flown with the previous week.. The food was pretty poor and the trolly dollys were a little surly. South African Airlines would not be my first choice should I ever come down this way again, they have a little way to go to match the asian and middle eastern airlines who seem to take customer service to a higher level. Anyway my magic tablets worked again and as we landed I was just relieved that my feet were on terra firma and that I would not be flying again for a couple of years.
Getting to the airport had been pretty tiring, having somebody drive you down has to be the better option and then showing gratitude by bringing them back ‘Iv’e been to Cape Town shirt or mug’. It would not have been so bad if the train was direct, but carting the heavy bags through the Underground was onerous and Kelsey is now walking with a permanent stoop. But having said that it was all part of the experience and Kels guided us through the Underground and Heathrow Connect with assured confidence which renewed the spring in her step. She is certainly sharing the responsibilties and her confidence is showing a marked improvement.
We had a taxi to the hotel for 270 Rand. I gave the driver 350 Rand to cover his tip which I think worked out to about £27.00. I hate using new currency, you never know whether or not you are unknowingly giving away your life savings in one foul swoop and as you are all aware I am not the keenest of donors. Joking aside the driver was worth his tip, it was nice to get in a taxi and not have to revert to the usual aimless chat like "You busy tonight" or "What time you working till". No our driver was very intellectual and we discussed everything from South African politics to next years World Cup.
As for the hotel, well yes its functional and to be fair the exterior looks fine. However it was formerly a prison housing British convicts and despite its transformation to a hotel and business college, one would never be in any doubt as to its initial purpose. The old landings, the metal stairs and cells are all still present and some of the latter have been converted into classrooms and accommodation. It has two restaurants, one a self serve buffet the other a la carte but neither are really up to much although a lot cheaper than at home, so it has cushioned the blow. As for the rooms, yes not too bad, the carpet is a little worn, the cupboards were obviously purchased from MFI in the 1970's and the bloke putting them together clearly did not manage to get his head round those bloody awful diagramatic instructions, and as for the beds they are not going to inspire the next Olympic trampolining champion. However if there is a consolation the shower is hot and dispenses water at Warp Factor 8. Exfoliating I think you call it !
Cape Town is fantastic, certainly of the great cities of the world and a great venue for the 2010 World Cup . It has been a little overcast but when the cloud clears the presence of Table Mountain makes for one of the worlds most impressive backdrops. We have ambled around the Victoria and Alfred Water Front and what a vibrant place it is, multi cultural and cosmopolitan. Firstly the shopping mall is awesome, I have never seen such an array of designer shops coupled with fine restaurants. It makes Merry Hill look like the Rope Walk. The port is lively with both commercial and pleasure craft, and all around there are street entertainers and musicians who bring colour, humour and wonder with their tricks and dances. The Zulu warrior who balanced a rickety B & Q plastic garden table on his nose got my vote although the old guy playing a guitar made out of an old gallon Castro GTX oil can certainly came a close second. I gladly showed my appreciation when the hats came round, (yes I did !!) We also watched an impromptu concert by the runner up of South Africa's 'Pop Idol' and Kels got all gooey when she had her photograph taken with him and got a signed copy of his CD. Willem Botha, remember the name...you will never hear it again!.
As for the shark diving very disappointing, we were up at 5.00am the first morning, only for it to be cancelled after we had driven 50 miles. Unfortunately the sea state was considered too dangerous and we had to turn back. We were rescheduled but the weather never improved so we missed out on that adventure and consider it unfinished business. I will be coming back at some stage to see these awesome creatures.
Anyway every cloud has a silver lining and we spent a morning at the Cape Town aquarium which is most impressive and certainly less hazardous in terms of our interaction with the sharks. We were given kelp to hold which was leathery and slimy and the guide gleefully told us that some of the constituents of ice cream and tooth paste were derived from this seaweed. No more cornettos for me and its bi carb for the teeth in future.
We also went to Robben Island to the high security prison in which Nelson Mandela spent eighteen years of his life for the crime of being anti apartheid. Our guide was a former political prisoner incarcerated for being a member of the African National Congress and his account of life in the prison was quite harrowing. Nelson Mandela spent a total of 27 years in prison and yet despite his inhumane treatment he bears no malice to the guards or their political masters, which is a mark of this great man and why he is revered the world over. I am looking forward to reading his book 'The long walk to freedom' which he wrote in prison, hid from the guards and eventually had smuggled out for all the world to see. In a strange way it is an honour and a humbling experience to visit such places, I know Ben felt similarly when he visited the Killing Fields in Cambodia.
We took a an open bus tour around the City learning all about the history and culture especially with regards to the apartheid years, interesting stuff and for all intents and purposes the country looks like it is moving forward. However it is a slow process and there are still one million black people still in the ‘Townships’on the edge of the city, a 25km swathe of shacks with no sanitation and only basic amenities, a sight to behold let me tell you.This township has one of the highest murder rates in the world. It certainly contrasts the designer shops and wealth still held by the minority white community, although there are clear signs that black people are gradually becoming more prosperous which everybody here now accepts is a step in the right direction for South Africa . Of course the poverty that still exists leads to crime, and all homes, hotels and businesses are protected by high walls or fences and patrolled by security guards, a very watchful eye needs to be kept when walking about as muggings and pickpockets are very common. Walking around at night is still not to be recommended but that is of course also the case in some of our big cities.
As for Table Mountain well again the weather intervened and we were unable to reach the summit by cable car which to be honest was a god send considering the gale force winds. It would of been like a ball attached to a skipping rope. Anyway we walked it instead, tough terrain but what a view.
As I send this e mail the Bark Europa has sailed into the harbour, what an impressive sight, and we wait to board in eager anticipation.The seas are very heavy and we both know that we face big challenges in the days ahead but hell it is an adventure and if something is worth getting a T shirt for it needs to be hard earned.
We have enjoyed our time in Cape Town, a wonderful city and look forward to our next destination, St Helena. We are missing you all, wish us fair weather and a safe journey.
Best Wishes
Doddy
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