Over the last few weeks I have talked mainly about the sailing but lots of fun things happen on board as well and this Blog gives a flavour of the other side of Tall Ship sailing:

From the moment we boarded the Europa in Cape Town I noticed an undercurrent of secrecy amongst certain permanent and trainee crew, a certain bond which fostered whispering and meetings in every nook and cranny in the ship. And a chance encounter with these strange bunk fellows would inevitably result in them scurrying off giggling or cackling like witches concocting a frightful potion. Hmmmm !!!

Well, as the voyage progressed confidences were built and little snippets of information were disclosed, in confidence, but there is no honour between sailors and it was duly passed on to all those who would need to know. It became clear that there was considerable significance being placed upon sailing across the Equator for the first time and the knowing nods and winks caused a degree of unease amongst the equatorial virgins.

References were made to Pollys and Shellbacks and I researched these words in Websters Dictionary and ascertained that the former was defined as one who had not sailed across the Equator previously, and who would be subject of an initiation ceremony. Conversely shellbacks had already been through the process, whatever it was. What was slightly worrying in the definition of Pollys, was that the initiation was likened to being tossed into sea water. Walking the plank or keel hauling immediately sprang to mind, and some half hearted reference to the Captains helming skills now seemed a little foolhardy.

Of course the old shellbacks could not help themselves and as we neared the Equator they maliciously fed rumour and conjecture into the ships propaganda machine, for example that all Pollys would have their heads shaved. Of course the girls became feisty and grumpy (nothing new there then) and one was heard to say “if they touch my hair there’s going be a fight”. Oh my lord mutiny on the Europa....what will they say at the Office.

Anyway I shall comment on the actual ceremony shortly, but as we neared the magic line there was a strange smell occasionally wafting through the gangway. I thought to myself, ‘they want to do something with that !!!’

We reached the Equator at 0218 hours on Friday 22nd May 2009 and all crew were assembled on the main deck to toast this momentous occasion. We were of course unable to see the big line on the ocean in the pitch black but nobody seemed to mind and there was much celebration as the drinks flowed and those able (and those not so able) danced the night away. As people around the world were making their way home from clubs and pubs we were just starting and heh what a place to have a party, cool or what !!

Also to mark the crossing a inscription was compiled in English and Spanish together with a lovely poem written by Nadja which reads as follows:

Sailing across the Equator
Sooner or later
This imaginary circle around the earth
Life is like a miracle at sea
Every moment worth
We all signed the parchment (or paper dipped in coffee) and it was then placed in a bottle and handed to Richard to assign to the ocean, it being he who had guessed nearest to the crossing time. Without fuss or flourish he lobbed it over the side, no pomp no ceremony, clearly catching the waiting paparazzi on the hop and in consequence no photographs were taken of the bottle’s launch. I don’t think they will ever ask him to name a ship, timing is everything!!

It became apparent that we actually crossed the Equator three times and when I asked Luca the Mate about this, he said it was because they had done it properly. Sounded more like the Okey Cokey to me...”You put one sail in, one sail out, you do the okey cokey and you shake it all about”. Ah well I least I now have the T Shirt.....and the video.....and the mug!

Later that day the Pollys were herded into the lounge under strict instruction to remain there. To keep us amused, the beginning of the film’ Longitude’ was shown which interestingly starts with an able seaman being hung from the yardarm for questioning the Captains assessment of the ships position!!.

All of a sudden there was sinister laughter coming from the gangway and a bare chested beast of a man, wearing yellow waterproof trousers, the compass cover, and a yellow divers mask came into the lounge. His eyes were wide and menacing, slightly skewed by the tightness of the mask, his snorts fogged the mask. This was indeed Marteyn the Mate, although he did have an uncanny likeness to Jack Nicholson in the film The Shining. He handed out blindfolds and we duly complied, this was certainly not a time for protest, our immediate future was no doubt going to be pretty grim, and I for one was not going to make myself a martyr.

We were led up the stairs to the Main Deck in total darkness, and as we emerged into the open, that odour I had previously alluded to, hit our smell receptors with the delicacy of a baseball bat. No longer an unpleasant whiff, oh no it had developed into the most vile, acrid and pungent stench I had ever encountered. Not wishing to exaggerate, it was gut wrenching and I felt like heaving but temporarily contained the nausea as we were sat down on a bench to await our fate.

Being blindfolded clearly added to the in trepidation and as the Shellbacks ran around the deck screeching in delight I thought we were at a chimps tea party, and I found that slightly worrying as our immediate future was clearly in their hands.... the sound of water swilling about also was a cause for some concern and my thoughts focussed on Websters Dictionary. Just as the stench was fading some sort of potion containing the said ‘smell’ was put on the back of my hand, some was pasted on my rather large bald spot and for good measure down the back of my shirt. This reinvigorated the sense of nausea but I think my nostrils had given up the ghost by then and more important issues were at hand.

One by one we were led to a chap called Neptune who had a Mate, who it was subsequently revealed, were wearing a rather fetching pair of blue and yellow curtains and the one in blue
(who seemed to be charge) had acquired one of the cooks best serving forks. Anyway the ‘Mate’ read out some character flaws such as smoking too much, not eating vegetables and
writing inappropriate ship’s logs and then this chap Neptune handed down a range of rather harsh punishments relative to our shortcomings. As he did so we were marshalled by guards
who clipped what sounded like garden shears around our ears and for once I was glad I had little hair, We were then ordered to the Slop!!!!!.

Now this slop as it is called, was in fact two weeks food scraps and leftovers which had rotted and fermented, to which had been added spaghetti and pasta. It had then been mashed into a paste and pink food colouring completed the processt. It had the consistency of Swarfega and the smell was nothing short of revolting, Judkins Tip would be a contender for ‘Britain in Bloom’ compared to this.

Now if ever go to the gallows I hope the bloke ahead of me shows a little more courage in the face of adversity, as opposed to my cabin mate Paul. As he was taken to the slop all I could hear was ‘Oh no”, “Oh God and Errrrrrrrhh!! which I have to say did not inspire much confidence in the rest of us, although as I underwent the process I did share his sentiment. Led
and sat down at the side of the Zodiac (inflatable boat) some foul concoction was ladelled over us which managed to wriggle itself into every crevice and space, before we were pushed into the Zodiac which was filled with an equally obnoxious soup. Personally I felt like a sheep desperately trying to regain his feet after being unceremoniously being dipped, but the fire
hoses precluded an early escape. Permitted to remove the blindfold I emerged a broken man, sodden, disorientated, and stinking like a skunk with body odour.

We made our way to the sloopy deck to fulfill our forfeits and watched the Pollys amongst the Permanent crew go through the same process although I have to say I think they had it a little worse......if it could be any worse. We were then all assembled back in front of this chap Neptune with a shot of liquor.

It was at this point we were awarded certificates and the accreditation was read out for all to hear, each fresh ‘Shellback’ being christened with a new name to mark the achievement. Now I have spent years building up a reputation and like to be considered a pillar of society, but I have to say I can see it all falling down when I have to disclose my new identity, ...............’Pepe the Tufted Puffin’. We toasted our success with the liquor which tasted remarkably like sea water and added to the lingering sense of nausea before returning to our cabins for a shower...and another....and another...and another................and still you could smell it !!!!.

Now unlike my 25 metres breast stroke and best trumper, sorry trumpeter, in Year 7 certificates, I shall be taking very good care of this piece of paper. Indeed I shall be making countless copies so when I come back past this way again I do not suffer this indignity again. No I want to be one of the chimps and do all the horrible bits. Up the Shellbacks!!.

One final point which was a cause for some disappointment was when I was told that Neptune was actually Captain Klaas dressed up. This was a bitter blow as I only found out recently that Father Christmas didn’t exist.

Humour aside, everybody entered into the sprit of the occasion and as such it was fantastic fun and a note of appreciation needs to be commented upon for all the efforts of the Shellbacks
not only on the day, but also in terms of preparation (They should patent that foul brew, it should be good for killing all known germs...dead!). It was indeed another one of those Europa days which will remain in the memory for many years to come.

Well back to sailing matters, we have now passed the Doldrums (or Dum Dums as my friend called it) and we are making very good speed in the North East trade winds towards Bermuda, some five hundred miles from the Venezuelan coastline We are scheduled to complete this leg on the 10th June and we are looking forward to the celebrations. It will of course be nice to be back on terra firma, we will have only had 12 hours on land in almost two months.

Best Wishes

Doddy
(Pepe the Tufted Puffin)