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(10). There was no way that I could get to Portugal - there was a huge music festival coming up and it was impossible to find cost-effective transportation! Instead, I decided to go to Granada, in southern Spain, which I heard is absolutely gorgeous!
I spent my entire four hour train ride catching up on blog posts! Tue ride gave me the opportunity to see the gorgeous countryside; rows and rows of planted trees and winding through mountainous terrain, I arrived in Granada, which is nestled in the mountains. I walked the two km to my hostel (my backpack is getting very heavy - it's nearly fifty pounds!) in the sweltering heat of the afternoon. I walked by gorgeous cathedrals, old buildings and best of all...plenty of tapas bars!
I went on a free walking tour to the Sacramonte caves. The poor and Gypsies used to live in these caves, as they couldn't afford housing and caves have a constant temperature year-round. People STILL live in them! Some of them have built nice houses outward and you can't even tell. Further up, some don't have electricity but have a house there. A bit deeper into Sacramonte there are just caves where hippies pretty much live now for free - no rent or electricity to pay! It blew my mind, haha. We hiked to the top of a hill that gave us a view over the entire city. So gorgeous! I couldn't wait to visit the Alhambra, this humongous fortress looking thing which overlooked the city. I met Caroline and Ainsley from Calgary and we hiked together and went for tapas! I loooove tapas. Granada is especially famous for it's tapas: you get a free plate when you order a drink! Andalusia is famous for it's flamenco dancing. Apparently it is native to gypsies and they get angry when it is associated with Spain? We bought tickets to go to a midnight flamenco show held in a cave pub! It was a very intimate setting, limited to only about twenty people. There was an older gypsy lady on vocals/clapping and a guitar player. She sang in a deep voice, which surprised me, but I think that's how it's supposed to be. The two of them made music for a bit. Then came the beauty. A gorgeous girl in a traditional flamenco outfit charmed us on the little stage. Again, I love the wrist movements mixed with the most insane foot rhythms I've ever witnessed. We could not take our eyes off of her! Also, they do not smile while dancing. An intense, almost troubled look consumed the dancer's face. It's all part of the style and adds to the mood. It was way different from Carmen, the ballet I saw in Madrid. Each had its own unique charm.
Granada has beautiful little side streets and is fun to explore. Because it is so close to Morocco, there are shops galore carrying Moroccan trinkets. I have decided on another trip I will visit Morocco (only via tour group!) and Portugal.
(11) I made the trek up the winding road to the Alhambra, the fortress watching over Granada. It dates back to the 1300's and is basically a mosque. It's absolutely gorgeous and grand! I never learn -I got the audio guide and only listened to it for like 1/2 hour. I guess I always feel obligated to get one because I'm paying to go in anyways - so I should probably learn about it. I didn't feel like paying attention in 38 degree weather. From now on - research before and just enjoy (cheaper too, haha)! I spent about four hours in there and I wasn't really even lolly-gagging! It's just that humongous! Amazing architecture and mosaic glassworks are what impressed me most. And the view from the tower over all of Granada! The roads just kill your feet because they have rocks that just jut out of them. Spanish women are all crazy and wear huge heels and platforms all the time on the stuff. I would probably kill myself trying to walk on that stuff in heels. I walked down the hill and was majorly overheated so I stopped at this pub and ordered sangria for €2.20 and a whole plate of free tapas came: pasta, chips and a baguette with ham and cheese. By no means healthy, but I don't know how it can be free!
I was going to take the night train to Barcelona but changed my mind about 1/2 hour before it left and changed my ticket to Seville for the morning. Leaving the station, I met Alex and Marc, two Edmontonians! I helped them to their hostel and we went on a tapas tour. Did I mention I love Granada?
(12) Upon arriving in Seville, I was hit by the heat. Over 40. TOO hot! I made it to the hostel and relaxed in the cool until it cooled down a bit and ventured out to explore the cute little streets. I keep meeting all these Albertans! I hung out with Milena and Christina from Edmonton - we went for tapas (you actually have to pay for them pretty much everywhere but Granada and that gem of a place in Madrid, El Tigre) before going to a bull fight. I didn't think I would ever go to one. But chance had it the one for the month was when we were there. So, at 10pm for €6 we joined the Spanish. The pavement seats in the arena burned even though the sun had gone down! It's quite the ordeal. Because it is native to Spanish culture, they have rituals to follow. All of the matadors came out in their tight, flashy suits and there is a band playing. Matadors are trained to walk and act flamboyantly, tossing their heads and doing their 'stiff' walk.
It was awful to watch. The bull runs out steaming mad. The matadors have their pink cloaks and a few of them flash them, confusing the bull. One matador battles the bull in the middle. That part is kind of neat, because the bull comes so close to them while charging at the cape. If I had left at that point I think I would have enjoyed it. Another person comes out and stabs these dart things in the bull's neck. I found out later that it severs the nerves so he can't lift his head and makes them begin to bleed. Then they just tire the bull out, taunting him with the cloak until they stab him in the back of the head to kill him. I was horrified. The Spanish love it. They all bring picnic baskets with their own drinks and food. If it is a good performance, they wave white hankies in the air and clap. We left early and chatted over frozen yogurt.
(13). Milena, Christina and I explored in the morning. By afternoon, it was so hot I couldn't function. I actually siesta-ed! I can never seem to nap whilst traveling but wowee was it stinkin hot- somewhere in the 40's! In the arvo I visited the largest gothic cathedral in the world - it's so intricately structured and just beautiful. After, I crossed the courtyard to the Alcaraz, a huge palace, apparently the oldest one still in use by a royal family. It reminded me a lot of the Alhambra inside. So many beautiful things I have seen in Europe!
Til next time! Adios!
- comments
Linda P I really think you should be a travel journalist.....I love the way you write about your journey.
Mom Hey Larae,Hot here too, but not as hot as there!! Glad that you are enjoying yourself and meeting a lot of new people. Hope you have a big place if you ever come back home for all of your new friends to visit! Bet you're counting down the days to when you make it to Norway and meet baby Tor. Love you, safe travels, Mom
Mom Hey Larae, Hot here too, but not as hot as there!! Glad that you are enjoying yourself and meeting a lot of new people. Hope you have a big place if you ever come back home for all of your new friends to visit! Bet you're counting down the days to when you make it to Norway and meet baby Tor. Love you, safe travels, Mom