29) After visiting with people at the hostel until 2:30am, on a whim I decided to get up at 5:30 and see where I could catch a ferry to. Off I went to Piraeus, the port in Athens. I was going to go to Mykonos, but decided Santorini at the last minute. I checked a couple of hostels out for availability before I left, of course! My ferry left at 7am. I set up camp on a padded bench and proceeded to sleep until about 11, when I ventured up to the deck to catch some sun. I've decided I love ferry rides. It's how I would imagine a cruise ship to feel, although I'm sure I wouldn't be using my backpack as a pillow...

Four stops later, I arrived in Santorini at 4pm. I was greeted by tiers of white buildings on the cliffs sprinkled with blue-roofed Greek Orthodox churches. I didn't expect it to be so desert-like. This lovely Athenian, Clio, helped me be aggressive, beat the horde of people and get on the right bus. I got to Caveland to find out I got the last bed! How lucky! It has breakfast, a pool, sheets and towel and a beautiful view of the Aegan Sea! I asked Ben, the German reception guy for a good place to eat and he was like, "I'll come with you," and went and started up his quad, told me to hop on (in my skirt!) and we went for souvlaki! The island was formed by one of the largest volcano eruptions in history. He informed me the population of Santorini is 16,000 regularly and 100,000 during tourist season. Very touristy. I plan to go to a couple of less touristy islands, auxh as Nexos! Everyone rides quads and scooters here without helmets. After, I ventured off to see the famous Santorini sunset. I was not disappointed (gives Dubrovnik a run for the money!). It was so romantic as my ears caught faint melodies of traditional Greek music. I strolled along the cobblestone cliff streets until I arrived back at Caveland, where I met my roomies - Lois and Dina from Oxford and Danielle from Chicago - we all decided to take a tour the next day!

I love the Greek semi-healthy dessert, Baclava!

(30) From Fira, Santorini's capital, you can catch a cable car to the port below or take nearly 700 steps to the bottom. These stairs are full of donkeys and mules transporting people! I opted to walk down the stairs, which wasn't too good of an idea with my slippery sandals. Clutzy took a tumble on her knee on the cement rocks! Ouchy. I met the girls at our boat, Afroditi. Santorini was formed from a volcano, Nea Kameni - we visited some sulphuris hot springs near the still active volcano. I was stained orange after coming out of the water. Insta-tan! Then we hiked the volcano and had great views of Santorini island and the cities of Oia and Fira.

Returning to the port, we hiked the 600-some steps back up to the top of the cliff; so sweaty; rewarded ourselves with refreshing Greek salads. We went to the infamous 'red beach' and hopped in the glorious Aegan Sea!

I met Rebekah (Kiwi from Athens) that night in Oia, where we booked in to share a room for two nights.

(31) Rebekah and I explored Oia and Fira, exclaiming over the white buildings with blue accents. Highlight of the day: we were in a store, and a lady asks the owner how much an item is. "165," she replies. "Euros?" asks the customer. To which, in her very Greek, sassy Mediterranean woman way, she responds by throwing her arms in the air, "No, Turkish Lyra, what you think?! Pfff". She shook her head and looked at Rebekah and I with an exasperated sigh, as if the customer was the dumbest person in the world. She really knows how to cater to customers. I still can't stop laughing when I think about it!

I've learned something about myself: when I overheat, I turn into a Debbie Downer. I seista-Ed and we went to the tip of Oia to catch Santorini's amazing sunset. Except there were too many tourists - it's even the end of the season. We are both excited to head to a less touristy island! At sunset we met Richard from Sydney, the most interesting and traveled man I've ever met. On this trip alone (since March) he has travelled through South America, Africa, did Busabout (regretting not doing that now kinda) through Europe and we were in Pamplona running at the same time! He has been to base camp at Everest, hang gliding in Rio, saw the gorillas in Rwanda...his stories are inspiring and endless. Bit me with the travel bug all over again! He had supper with us and treated us to a bottle of Santorini-grown wine and fresh figs.

(1) We had delicious Greek walnut pie for breaky and ventured down all of the stairs at Oia port, winding around cliffs to find the secluded Ammoudi Beach nestled among the rocks. We jumped off a small cliff into the clear water...heavenly! We basically had to sprint up all the donkey-soiled stairs barefoot to the top of the cliff to catch our bus to the port for our ferry to Nexos, sweat dripping from our faces!

I write this entry as I sit on the open ferry deck, looking out at the vast Aegan, misty views of various Cyclades islands in the distance. The Greek flag snaps in the sea breeze. Rebekah reads beside me, and a traveling band plays traditional music on guitars and violins! Our ferry theme song: Brooke Fraser's "Something in the Water".

Til next time...hi from Nexos!