To get from San Pedro to La Serena we had to take a 15 hour night bus. We opted to go for cheaper tickets, which meant a bit less comfort. Buses down here have a few seat options. A normal seat might recline just a bit but not far enough. A semi-cama will get you an 130 or so degree angle. The full cama is almost a lay down situation but will set you back a few. We have thus far agreed that semi cama is just fine for comfort and cost reasons. The bus ride was what it was. Some sleep had some not. We arrived some time before the sun rose so we took up post in the terminal to wait it out until a more reasonable time to meet our very first couch surfing host. Ivan. When that time arrived we hiked in to town to find a place to ring him. Once that all came together we agreed to meet him in the main plaza. He was quiet at first but then again it was 8 am when most peope are as cheery as an angered snake. We soon learned he had a car, which was just a lovely concept to both Sara and I. When traveling, small things like that become mental celebrations and emerge through big s*** eating smiles and silent exchanges of excitement. We stuffed his car and started the short trip to his apartment. Upon arrival we learned he lived on the 6th floor of a beach front apartment building with a view from his wrap around balcony. Again, s*** eating grins. We would be sleeping on the sofas in the living and they looked perfectly comfy. After showering and settling in, Ivan invited us to drive over to his friend Chritian´s - Chris for short. Chris had spent much of his youth in Tuscon, AZ so him and Sara had a good deal to chat about right off the bat. His place was an old run down structure but with a great deal of character. Inheritied from his grandmother, old relics of hers stood in various rooms, as if marking her ghostly presence. Crying cats greeted us at the door wanting love and attention, which was a bit difficult to give with apparent rashes on their ears from what I presumed to be flees. We hung out there for a bit and then took off to do a day at the beach. I should mention that both Ivan and Chris are tride and true hippy surfer dudes so you´ll have a stronger sense of the tone set from the very start.

Before heading to the beach we went to the fish market right on the water, where we made our way through a wide aisle surrounded by vendors selling every type of fresh seafood you could imagine. I felt like a kid in a candy shop after living two and a half years in a landlocked country. We had decided on doing a fish dinner so the goal was to pick up somethign to prepare that night. We went for a white fish called Reineta. Later we got empanadas de marisco - empanadas filled with various shellfish enclosed in a fried dough. I am not sure I can give justice to the deliciouness of this chilean jewel through words. Only the be best thing I´ve eaten thus far on the journey. We each had one and then Sara and I split a second.

Later we dropped the fish off at the apartment and picked up beach gear. The beach was a 20 hour trip away and well worth it. Barely a soul was there when we arrived and we camped out behind a large rock to avoid the fairly strong wind. The guys had brought their boards but with such intense wind they didn´t think they could manage it. However, about an hour later the wind broke and tubular waves started curling near the surft. Sara and I begged them to go in and show off their stuff and so they did. The rest of the day we took sexy photos, played in the sand and bronzed our bodies. We were officially on vacation.

That night we made a fabulous dinner that started with philly cream cheese with hot peppers mixed in topped on crackers and homemade ceviche for appetizers. We acommpanied our fish with yellow peppered and garlic rice and a nice hearty salad...and of course a bottle of wine. After the long day on the beach in the sun and our bellies stuffed we didn´t last too late in to the night until we crashed in our sofa beds.

While we had only planned to stay there a day we were having too much fun to go. Plus Ivan convinced us to stay so we could see the neighboring Valle de Elqui. We picked up Chris the next morning and headed to the valley. Driving in we were immediately impressed. Neslted inside the Andes, this furtile space is endlessly green. A wide river (sadly cut off by a damn half way down) splits it down the middle and grape vines stretch alongside almost the entire main highway. The goal was to get to a small town called Pisco and use a house that Chris had put in charge of watching over for his Dannish friend. Before arriving there we stopped at a watering hole filled with fresh and very cold spring water. I can do cold water but this was a new kind of cold. We all managed it though and spent a lovely few hours bathing and basking. Feeling refreshed we went to this house, which set on an impressive but overgrown yard. Peach trees grew near the back patio and a small creek even divided the land. We had picked up meat and veggies for a bbq dinner and got to perparations. We were all pretty hungry. Dinner was a great success and we waited out our time until the stars made their debut, yet again an incredible site. Around midnight we packed back in to the car for our return to La Serena even though we could have all staid another day or two. Sara and I had decided to head out the next morning so we had bags to pack and at least a bit of Zs to catch. The next morning Ivan graciously drove us to the bus terminal earlier than I am sure he would have liked. He was such a lovely guy though and set the bar very high for our future couch sufring hosts, which we´d soon meet in our next stop in Valparaiso.