This morning was watching an interesting music show on local tv in my hotel room. I didnt realize breakfast was 8am-10am Beijing time meaning two hours back local time. When I went they were already closed so I had to go out on the street and buy a bread roll for 1Y (.15 cents) which was very salty as bits of the tandoor oven get stuck to the dough as it cooks and peels off.

First we drove to the tomb of Apak Hoja which is a famous landmark, and mixed stories of whether he was good or bad. Entrance was 30Y ($4.50). There is a large mausaleum much like the Taj Mahal which is also a tomb. In the grounds was an old cemetary, and a courtyard style mosque. You could pay extra to see a traditional music and dance show.

Then we heard loud music from a massive sound system blasting as the dance show was taking place the other side of the garden. This is supposed to be a tomb and cemetary. There were some family members at one of the graves. Dancing and singing, literally on peoples graves, is highly inappropriate, particularly in the month of ramadan. There are many other tourist sites where they could have chosen to do this performance.

Next we went for a walk in Kashgars famous old town. Sadly due to an earthquake the city has decided to level much of the original neighbourhood as they are deemed unsafe. However, due to local opposition the new homes will be built in original two story brick and the original style. They have also created new paved roads for transport taking away many of the old alleyways.

The 'new old town' is more functional and structurally sound but loses a lot of the charm of the old dusty alleyways and painted door houses. When the Kite Runner was filmed here many locals were paid to be extras. This is the romantic ideal many tourists have when they come to Kashgar as this is the image they have seen in the movie which was shot here about 5 years earlier when the old neighbourhoods still existed.

Video : Kashgar Old Town Bazaar walking to Id Kah Mosque
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kxdg5tzz olY

After we walked toward the central Id Kah Mosque, the focal point of the old town. Entrance was 20Y ($3) but since I was muslim they let me in for free. This is said to be one of the largest mosques in the world. However, there's not much to see as its mostly courtyard style so open areas with trees for shade. Toward the end was a covered area with the mihrab and carpeted prayer mats.

Despite being the most famous mosque and the pride of the uyghar people, I must say that I found the mosques in Urumqi with their detailed plasterwork interiors to be more interesting. Then we walked down a handcraft street where they were banging copperware and firing them on open flames to make them more flexible. They were also making stringed musical instruments and crafting the wood body.

For lunch we then went back to one of the fancy tourist restaurants. I had a rice version of the same noodle dish I had been having. So rice layered with vegetables and finally meat on top. This is not the same as pilow where they are all mixed together. I also had a cup of yogurt which I put a couple of spoons on the rice, and a kettle of tea. All this for 13Y ($1.95).

After that it was back to the hotel for a long afternoon rest till after 4pm. I was watching this tv drama that was coming in 15 minute installments. It was quite interesting about a local village in the highlands, with a chinese garrison stationed there. The opening and closing credits were quite interesting almost like movie trailers showing many scenes from the drama During one episode was some kind of serenade where a guy was strumming a small guitar to a lady. (see later entry Xinjiang TV and Music)

By this time my stomach was reacting to the yogurt even though I only had a couple of spoons on the rice. Luckily I was in my hotel room. After resting for the rest of the afternoon I had some freetime to explore as I wasnt expected to meet my guide till 7.30 for dinner.

Since we kept walking into old town and the Id Kah Mosque I decided to walk in the opposite direction where the retail stores were. This side of town is more chinese, modern, with the regular high street clothing and consumer goods stores. I kept walking and made it as far as Peoples Square which had a giant statue of Mao and Chinese Flags.

There were english tourist signs directing me to the old town lookout point so I decided to venture and see what was there. Just my luck, I stumbled into whats left of the original old town. Its now in a more park like setting, perched ontop of a hill overlooking a public park with gardens and a lake.

After taking some photos I walked closer to see what I could see close up. I thougth it would be closed off due to safety of the brittle mud homes. But I saw a large staircase leading up into the hilltop homes so I climbed to see how far I could get in. It then led to a winding narrow street and I had accidently found the original old town.

So I walked for a bit, not too far so as not to get lost in the maze. There were people living here, doing there daily activities, and children playing in the streets. There were also collapsed homes so you could see the inside half buried in mud and bricks and barricades around for safety.

After a while the streets were branching so I explored different routes and encountered other tourists with cameras, so felt it was ok to be here. There was a large group of spanish tourists, who were being allowed into some of the homes. Many of the homes had english signs where you could enter and see a different traditional craft taking place in each home.

I felt this was much more interesting than the 'new old town' I saw this morning, and more of the touristy ideal people have from watching the Kite Runner. I later found out you have to pay 20Y to enter ($3) and I had come in the back way from one of the locals entrance. However, it was a thoroughly rewarding experience.

Then I took a cab back as it was too long now to walk all the way back to the hotel. I was told to pay 5Y ($.75 cents). The first one I entered was driving at a ridiculously high speed. I expected to go flying thru the windscreen so braced myself as the seatbelt was broken of course. All of a sudden after a traffic light he rear ended a car ahead.

So now I was going to be stuck in a road accident as they got out to look and both drivers called on their cellphones. Luckily he handed back my 5Y so I could get out and get another cab. This was much calmer and I arrived safely back to my hotel.

My guide had to do an airport pickup so the owner said he would take me for dinner instead. We waited for Iftar, the end of the fast at sunset. They broke the fast with Samsas (bread filled with meat) and lots of watermelon, which they happily offered to me and another british guest in their office.

For dinner I wanted a light meal after my upset stomach at lunch. We had beef noodles again, I think for my fifth time now. I think because of ramadan many menu items were not being offered. The owner also paid for my meal, which was nice of him. I'm still cautious after a guide I met in morocco that was trying to get me to buy him things and run up his 'meter' for time he spent with me, but the people in Xinjiang were nothing like this.

Video : Kashgar Restaurant
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4lFVyZXk ruE

After a full day in Kashgar seeing the main sights of the Id Kah Mosque, Apa Hoja Tomb, and original Old Town, tomorrow would be my last day and departure after visiting the famous sunday livestock market.