So our Buenos Aires adventure continues, although adventure is probably the wrong word to use. The last few weeks have consisted of lazy mornings, chilling out and eating good food, with a few trips past our front door thrown in for good measure. We've completely blended in with the life and pace of this city, and we've totally succumbed to its charms.

I'll pick up where Darren left off which is the day after our night out at The Gibraltar Pub in San Telmo with our new friends Chris and Natalia, which was excitedly spent nursing our hangovers and not leaving the flat. But the next day we got our act together and visited the colourful suburb of La Boca. Its right beside the port and the majority of buildings here are covered in corrugated iron which have been brightly coloured with leftover marine paint, and it's a feast for the eyes. We'd heard mixed reviews about this place, and most of those were bad, but we loved it. It's colourful, there's tango dancers everywhere and a real buzzy vibe to the place, what's not to like. We also had the most amazing lunch at a parrilla restaurant, which consisted of a huge amount of mixed meats brought out to us on a mini grill. Afterwards we made the long bus journey back to our flat, trying not to melt on the non-air-conditioned bus.

We made friends with a local called Clara and she invited us to an experimental music night. Having no idea what to expect we met her at the venue, which we expected to be a bar, but it turned out to be a garage. And experimental is definitely how I'd describe the next two hours, I'd also use the term 'music' loosely. With no seats left we sat on the concrete floor with our one litre cup of beer we'd been given at the make shift bar, and it began. To set the scene there were four people sitting at each side of a small square table with a large stack of A4 paper and microphones in front of them, a girl sitting under a piano pulling at the strings, a man bent over a guitar lying on the floor and a guy with an accordion, a speaker and a microphone. Each of the four people read their scripts altogether (in Spanish, in case you're wondering), while the three musicians made random noises. All of the above should have made for a very bad night but strangely it didn't, we actually really enjoyed it. The sound of their voices was hypnotic and the random noises just worked with the whole thing, at times they'd stop altogether and I'd actually miss it, it was really interesting and it just goes to show you that its always worth trying and going to new things.

Sunday saw us make the pilgrimage to San Telmo for the markets which is a must do for all visitors to Buenos Aires. It's absolutely huge and we were exhausted be the end of it but we did pick up a couple of trinkets and the colourful and interesting stalls made for a very fascinating afternoon. We spent the next few days exploring areas of the city like Puerto Madero, where we found a McDonald's that only serves breakfast all day, Palermo Soho where we had the best homemade lemonade either of us have ever tasted and explored a huge indoor furniture market, and not far from us we appreciated the modern art and beautiful building of the Malba museum and treated ourselves to ice cream afterwards. It's going to be hard giving this life up.

A few days later we left the city behind and headed north to Tigre, which is actually more of a suburb of Buenos Aires, but it feels a world away. By boat we explored the Delta's with its houses on stilts and took a walk around this cute little town, but by far one of my favourite days was spent in Palermo Soho at their Saturday markets. The market was small and the vendors were friendly and chatty. We'd arrived at about 1pm, thinking the market would be in full swing but they'd only set up about half of it (this is South America after all), so we ate crepes then went for a beer while a Rastafarian guy entertained us. It was just the most perfect Saturday.

I can't talk about our time in Buenos Aires without mentioning food, because we ate so well. Our favourite had to be La Cabrera restaurant, were we ate at three times. Once we cycled passed completely by accident and when Darren's face just lit up I couldn't say no. It serves up the most amazing steaks in a fine dining setting, with tiny bowls of the tastiest accompaniments. Normally this would be the kind of place that our budget just couldn't stretch to but with a 40% off happy hour on food and drink, it's just too hard to resist. We also ate the best burger I've ever tasted but it only left us angry as we'd decided to share just the one burger, I so wanted my own! And I also have to mention Darren's culinary delights; it was so nice to be in a kitchen again that was just ours and we definitely made the most of it.

You can't talk about Buenos Aires and not mention tango, this city lives and breathes it. The music is in the air and you are never too far away from the dancers themselves. I love the argentine tango, it is the most beautiful and elegant dance, so I was very keen to go to a show. That is until I looked up the prices of them, which are extortionate for just a couple of hours. So when we heard that there are dancers every afternoon in San Telmo which you just have to tip.. we thought great, let's do that instead. The first time we tried there was a rock band playing instead, the second time a thunder storm started, so I couldn't believe it when the third time we actually got to see some dancers. But when it was time to pay for the bill and we realised we'd hardly any money and they didn't take card so Darren went off in search of an ATM we were told was only a few streets away. Over an hour later he returns exhausted with a fist full of Pesos and I was so relieved when I saw him.

I'm sad to leave this wonderful city, I've loved living here. Its old European charm meets South American charisma, the buildings are beautiful but you've gotta watch your step on the dilapidated footpaths. It's a city of contrasts that feels reassuringly familiar. Good bye Buenos Aires, you've been very good to us.

Clare