We were heading to San Cristóbal de las Casas today and we managed to book the front two seats on the bus to make sure we had a great view - it was going to be a 6 hour ride over the mountains. We set off of the same road as yesterday, towards the waterfalls, but we quickly realised this was going to be a completely different ride. Sitting perhaps 2.5m above the road, close to the front window and forward of the front wheel, we seemed to keep going off the side of the road on the bends. It was a bit like being on a roller coaster and un-nerving on the flat lands, by the time we reached the mountains it was downright scary - perhaps these weren't the best seats after all.

We eventually made it to our destination in one piece although surprised by the traffic in the town. It was a Saturday afternoon but it was chaos, it took about 20 minutes to travel 2km. We decided it would be easier to walk to our hostel than take a taxi and just be stuck in traffic. It was only a fifteen minute walk and gave us our first glance of the streets - narrow cobbled streets with the beautifully painted buildings we had become used to.

We were soon standing outside the building where Rossco Backpackers Hostel should be but there didn't appear to be a door - just a large, plain black garage door. On closer inspection, there was a normal sized door in the large door - David gave it a push and looked in...behind was a huge courtyard and well looked after garden. Given that the surrounding streets were losing the pristine looks for the odd bit of graffiti, this was something we didn't expect to see, it was like stepping into a different world. There were dogs running round and cats sleeping in corners - this really was a homely place.

We were starving after the long bus ride and asked for a recommendation - Toque Coleto was just round the corner and served local specialities, that was perfect for us. We ordered a soup (the name I forget) but it was a broth that also had shredded chicken, cheese and chipotle chilis in it. With some quesadillas and tortillas on the side, all washed down with pineapple milk drink, we were fit for bursting.

We tried to walk off the meal with a wander through the market, it was massive and would need another day to look through it properly.