We were up early to have breakfast before heading out to walk in Cocora Valley. After the breakfasts we were used to in Manizales, today was a bit of a dissappointment. The only choice was having eggs scrambled or fried, no options of tomatoes or onions being cooked with the eggs. The eggs were accompanied with a rather dry arepa and one cup of instant coffee.

We arrived early for the jeep shuttle to Cocora, we didn't want to be left behind through lack of space. Lots of people turned up after us and they decided to put on an extra two jeeps. The jeeps have seats for six people and then more will stand in the middle of the floor and on the tailgate - there are no laws here for seatbelts and safety on the road.

Rain was blowing down through the valley and we were in two minds whether to come back another day or not but we decided to put on rainjackets and persevere. The path up the valley was shared with horses - you could rent a horse to take you up into the valley and then walk out the other path in a loop. We figured that you get just as sore legs holding on a horse as you do from walking so we decided to walk. The rain eased off and eventually stopped as we made our way up the river track. There were a number of river crossings on rickety old bridges that were only suitable for one person at a time. Due to the rain, the path was very muddy which was made much worse by the horses. At some points the path was barely passable, only a footwidth of solid ground between the ankle deep mud and steep mountain slope.

After 3 hours we finally made it to Finca La Montaña, at 2860 metres above sea level, offering great views down the valley and of the mountain peaks. The track back down the other side of the valley was more like a forestry road and much easier than returning the way we had came. It took us through the wax palm forests, palm trees that grow up on the mountains to around 60m in height. There was a scam at the end of the track, we had to pay "entry" to get out of the private property. Fortunately it wasn't a big amount and it was only later that we were told that you don't have to pay.

A horse procession was getting ready to leave Cocora for Salento just as we were ready to leave and we manged to get on a jeep in front of them. Back in Salento, we were hungry after our 4½ hour walk so we stopped at one of the caravans in the square for a snack. Patacones are the local snack, so that's what we had. It's fried plantain that's squshed and flattened before being fried again. Served up with a hot tomato salsa and a cold pineapple salsa, it was lovely, greasy goodness.

After showering and changing, we were back in the square to watch the procession arrive, there were hundreds of horses following the Virgen del Carmen to the church. There were men, women and even a couple of tiny kids riding their horses - some in complete control and others who were being led by their horses. Some of the men were drinking aguaardiente and beer as they rode in, others looked like they had finished their bottles earlier. Maybe they had fed some to their horses too because some were doing that crazy sideways walk while others ran up on the pavement scattering the crowd.

Once into the main square, it seemed like the riders abandoned their horses in front of the church where an outdoor sermon was taking place. Maybe the riders were getting something to eat or more drink because part of the sermon asked for the "oversight of tonights festivities". We had a chorizo on a stick and BBQ'd corn which was dry and stodgy. As the darkness descended, there was a short firework display that was set off from the middle of plaza.