After the hustle and bustle of Mumbai and Udaipur we travelled to Ranakpur. We had planned on staying 3 nights but after getting there and seeing the view from the pool over the lake we decided to stay longer - money was a bit tight - there were no cash points or banks so we had to be careful! Electricity was on and off and the service laid back, shall we say, but after being ill it was the perfect retreat for convalescence. We went on a 6 hour trek to a temple in the middle of nowhere. We are so used to seeing a beautiful view but a town or city in the distance, slightly spoiling it, but there was nothing to be seen except mountainous forested hills. Another day trip involved going to nearby (well, 5 hours there including 2 buses, much waiting and sharing our transport with goats etc!) Kumbulghar. An impressive complex of forts in the middle of nowhere. On the way back we waited again for a bus for over an hour and unusually the locals also waiting spoke no English but were keen to communicate with us in whatever way they could. Unfortunately the experience we have had so far has been people only talking to us so we buy from them or give them money (except for other Westerners). After this bus ride we waited at Saira where we were to catch our bus home. After waiting again for a while we decided to start walking the 20km home. 3km in to the journey we thought we heard the bus coming (it was getting dark) so we flagged it down. It was a truck, but the guys said we could ride with them so we did. What followed was a very cool, laid back journey with Indian music and a sighting of a tiger or some sort of big cat (by Jo, but not Dave sadly!). The wildlife has been amazing here: roaming peacocks, wild boar, camels, elephants, parakeets, big cats and a crocodile (we are almost sure!). Leaving was very sad: the Indian Manuel that was our waiter (aka 'half'), the pool, the mountains, the wildlife, the silence and the relaxation all made our stay in Shivika Lake Hotel very special.

And we got rid of our ripped note! The weird half-wit waiter took our money for the room in the dark on the last night and we did not see him the next day before we were taken in the owner's jeep to the train station where we met 'card shark' while we were waiting for the train. Sorry half! But thanks! Next stop: Pushkar.