"Happy Diwali, do you want a rickshaw" "No thank you" "Are you sure?" "Yes" Where are you going?" "WE DON'T WANT A RICKSHAW".

Arriving in Jaipur we step back into the land of rickshaws and millions of people touting for business to sell anything. However, despite dreading the thought of landing back in a city, we have thoroughly enjoyed the tacky town that is Jaipur. Like Blackpool on curry powder it's got lights for every occassion. But, in the midst of all this, Jaipur has got a very long and interesting history, with loads of excellent sights to see and not just the usual temple. To get our bearings we climbed up a minaret, the Iswari Minar Swarga Sal that was built by some Maharaja or other who couldn't bear facing the Maratha army so killed himself and so, as was best practice at the time (jauhar), so did all his wives and concubines - all 21 of them! (The British stopped this practice apparently). As well as this we swept round Hawa Mahal, City palace (with fascinating textile section showing things like the different types of clothes for Maharajas including one that took 2 years to make!) and armoury section including "Welcome" and "Goodbye" written in knives and backscratchers) and Nahargargh fort with stunning views across the city and topped it off with dinner in Hotel Om's revolving restaurant, again with arguably the best view in town and it didn't rotate so fast that we felt sick!! Today's escapade was to Amber fort - 11km from Jaipur. We had the usual fun and games of local buses and some guy who introduced himself then made it clear he was a "guide" and tried to offer his services at Amber fort. Dave suddenly became very deaf at that point and very interested in what was outside the bus. Amber fort was inhabited by a Maharaja and has labyrinthine passages throughout the fort which were walked by the Maharaja Man Singh when he wanted to visit the woman of his choice - he must have had a very good memory to know the way in each place. I suppose when needs must...

The day was then topped off with a neighbouring fort, Jaigargh. It is sad how much the forts have been left to ruin: there are these fantastic places with amazing views and there is just rubbish everywhere and despite facilities being provided people do not use them but prefer to use the historical sight itself..

Then it was a bus back (in the usual cattle cart way) and a bite to eat before preparing to leave for our next port of call: Agra. This is really what we came to India to see. I am scared that with such a big build up it is, after all, going to be disappointing. I hope not.