After yet another fabulous meal at Vogel - our newly found tiny Japanese bistro we head back to the ryokan to get an early night as we are off to the ancient capital Kyoto in the morning.

Arriving at Kyoto station (a vast super modern building) after four hours of travel we check into the Capsule Ryokan, a modern simple backpacker hotel which is friendly and clean. As the name suggests our room is tiny - hardly enough room to swing a mouse let alone a cat.

The weather here is warm and sunny around 22 degrees - such a contrast to Takayama. It is nice to feel warm and kick off our jackets and boots.

Heading off, by train to Fushimi-Inari Tasha, a beautiful shrine dedicated to the gods of sake and rice we walk up the mountain through the thousands of vermilion torii gates. Running out of time and puff we turn back three quarters of the way and head off to Gion district - home to the mysterious geisha and their old wooden ochaya and tea houses. Strolling down Hanamikoji, an historic and preserved area we have stepped back in time. To our joy and amazement we see a beautiful geisha in all her finery heading off to an appointment. She hurried along the street in such a calm manner although passers by were staring at her and camera flashes were going off like the paparazzi. I was spellbound. Later on that evening after a stroll and some cherry blossom viewing we again see the same geisha nodding to other geisha's as they ride off in a chauffeur driven car in all their finery. Probably off to a tea house to play sake games with wealthy businessmen? We contemplate on how lucky we are to have seen the geisha as they are very elusive.

After reserving our seats for our forthcoming train journeys at the train station, showering and having a few G&T's it was midnight and time for a well earned sleep - we were shattered... good night.

Waking up to predicted rain we decide to get some much needed washing done at the local laundrette.

Afterwards, we visited a few temples and then off to Gion Corner to see the Miyako Odori. This is the spring dance performances of the maiko and geisha of Gion. It is also the most prestigious and well known being the oldest - starting in 1872. The dances are based on a seasonal theme and have lavish sets and costumes. Everything was brilliant but the singing, which was certainly to our ear like a cats chorus.

A walk along Ponto-Cho another atmospheric street, a few drinks and a meal then we head home.

One of the highlights of the day was the tea ceremony performed by a geisha and her maiko at the theatre for which we had front row seats. Although we were not served a cuppa we got to see a real insight in to the culture and traditions of Kyoto and old Japan.

Next morning we are on the early train to Nara, the original capital of Japan, to see ancient temples and shrines dating back to the 6th century AD. The buildings are set in huge parkland with beautiful gardens and over a thousand deer which follow you around for their favorite food - deer cookies. The major attraction was Todai-Ji temple which is the home of the Great Buddha housed in the largest wooden structure in the world - the Great Hall.

Back at the ryokan we are given a quick lesson in Japanese calligraphy by one of the friendly staff. Don't expect the rest of the blog to be written in calligraphy.

Having been on our feet all day we decide to eat locally at a small lovely-looking restaurant. We are welcomed in with huge smiles, bows and some very loud but friendly Japanese greeting - wow - we feel like celebrities. We choose seats at the intimate bar and are given an aperitif; apple, tomato and onion juice !!!!, quite nice actually. The food was excellent apart from David's beef hotpot stew which was really beef-fat hotpot stew ( yummy mmmm delicious). I have a chicken sizzling hot plate with dried fish flakes on top!!! again OK. On leaving the restaurant, one of the waiters opens the door for us to leave, then bows very low as we walk out thanking us for our patronage - how polite.

Up early, yet again, to avoid the hoards of temple visiting tourists, we arrive at Kinkaku-ji the Golden Pavilion dating back to the 14th century set in a harmonious garden landscape. Although we are now templed-out the grace and beauty of this structure (which is totally covered in gold leaf and topped with a golden phoenix) takes our breath away. Even more so when learning this is in-fact an exact replica - the original was destroyed by arson in 1950. What drives a person to do such a thing?

We jump on another bus and take the short ride to Ryoan-ji a temple dating back to 1450. The temple's claim to fame and our reason for a visit is it's dry garden. Many consider it to be the ultimate expression of Zen Buddhism. Rather than explain what it looks like take a look and tell us what it symbolizes to you?

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