Up early on the 31st and off to Battambang by local bus. After changing from a minivan to a bus and then finally on to the bus to Battambang we are on our way. As the transport changes were only five minutes apart and that the final bus even passed our hotel we found this very odd. The area is extremely rural and we just watch the scenery until we get about halfway. There we stop for a break and some food. I tried the deep fried locusts and David the whole fried bird, delicious.

Arrive a further two hours later and are taken to our guesthouse by a really gentle tuk tuk driver called Mr Blue. We took his ride as he did not push and shove for the business but asked us quietly which hotel we were staying at. In his tuk tuk we found an album of photos and great write -ups of trips that tourists had taken with him. On arrival Mr Blue doesn't have much persuading to do for us to book a day trip on New Years day. He is so pleased he has a booking that he refuses to be paid for our journey to the hotel saying that his wife is expecting their first child and he needs all the money he can make. We know he is telling the truth as we read from the album that some tourists had wished him and his wife luck in getting pregnant earlier this year.

Cabaret Vert is a very nice guesthouse consisting of just six individual bungalows surrounding a fresh water pool cleaned by plants and real fish swimming in it. We unpack then head into town around six, there are hardly any bars, restaurants or anything really, just friendly Cambodians going about their business. At last we find what seems to be the only bar in town and have a beer and a meal.

We decide to spend the next day around the pool for three reasons - we are knackered, the pool area is fab and Suzanne has an iffy tummy.

Next day we get up early for our trip starting at the Bamboo Railway which runs for about 3 miles on the dis-used railway line. The trip is delightful, through the countryside with a clickety click on a handmade bamboo raft with an engine and two bogeys. As there is only one line if you meet another train there is a bit of a head to head to see who has to dismantle, and this is generally based on who has the most customers, are there more than one train going in that direction but most important are you carrying a motorbike! The railway was built in1929 to transport bamboo; hence it's name. Nowadays it is used by the locals and fun for tourists. It is expected to close soon as a new railway is to be built between Cambodia and Thailand, it's a shame as it's unique.

The end of the line is a tiny village with some lovely children who all want to meet you and show you the highlight of the town" the rice machine", we know it all now. However, they are so lovely and have great chat that we thank them for the tour, give them some money for treats and hop back on the train.

After the brilliant bamboo train we head to the horrific killing caves which are where the khmer Rouge slit the throats and dump the bodies of anyone who disobeyed them including women and children. We both jumped on the back of a moto with a young lad who took us to the top of a steep hill and also acted as our guide. His father had been a young boy at the time of the Khmer Rouge.

After the harrowing story of the caves we clambered up hundreds of steep steps to a temple that predated Angkor Wat but was less important; the view across the rice fields was fabulous. Back for a ride home and hundreds of waving kiddies shouting "hello" with the biggest grins brings a cheer to your heart as we made our way through the countryside and back to Battambang. We are both stunned at how poor the Cambodians are. They live in stilted wooden shacks that are falling apart with live stock living under the shacks.

We thank Mr Blue and give him a large tip stating that he has to buy a gift for the baby, he is over the moon and will drop us of at the bus station tomorrow morning as we are off to the Pearl of the Orient, Phnom Penh.


PS You may be wise to visit out of wedding season (now) as our tranquil retreat is neighboured by 24 hour chanting Ali Barba like salutations to the newly weds.