Spain! Land of tapas, jamon, and sangria. I had finally arrived in the country that inspired my wanderlust after reading Michener's "The Drifters" when I was 17. Took a bus from Avignon to Barcelona and ended up in a great little hostel off of noisy Las Ramblas and was quickly introduced to "Spanish Time"... eating, drinking, and merrymaking every night until the early hours. I felt positively decrepit retiring at midnight. I hit Sagrada Familia and the rest of the Gaudi masterpieces the first day, gawking speechlessly upwards among hoards of others. Museum Picasso, located in a former palace with over 3,500 of his works, took up another full day. Spent a few more days roaming the streets and shopping. I found I couldn't stay out of the mercados as hard as I tried. The sight of pig's legs (jamon) hanging from the ceiling was facinating. The stores had fancy display tables each holding a pig's leg in a metal contraption for easy slicing of the delicacy. The many fruits, nuts, and vegetables that were new to me were also fun. And then there were the baked goods. The Spanish love their sweets and they are truly delicious. The custards, cakes, breads, and cookies go so well with the fine coffee!

I headed to Zaragoza for no better reason than it was on the way to San Sebastian. What a gorgeous city! The main attractions were the Basilica del Pilar and shopping! The basilica was massive and really impressive but the shopping was way out of my league! Spaniards are snappy dressers, right behind the Italians I believe, and they spend loads of money on sharp clothing. I was also surprised to see many women wearing furs! : (

Took a bus through the snowy mountains to balmy San Sebastian and stayed in a homey guesthouse that was more like a private home. I hiked to the top of Monte Urgull, a beautiful walk through lush foliage with lots of cute, friendly Robins flitting around, to view the giant statue of Jesus. Wandering through the old town area, I found the most delectable tapas in Spain. The shop owners start putting together their extravagant creations early in the morning and they are placed on bars, countertops, and by windows for passersby to drool over. The most delicate, flavorful little pieces of fish, beef, and pork I've ever tasted. I walked the entire length of the perfect crescent-shaped beach while youth football teams practiced on the sand. San Sebastian is a perfect city. It's hard to say that about many places.

Moved on reluctantly to Burgos, home of the massive Our Lady of Burgos Cathedral. Built in 1221, it's a UNESCO site and worth the trip just to view the intricate Gothic architecture. Wasn't going to stay long but I found an adorable room in a quiet pension so I holed up for a few days. It was bitterly cold, so I was glad when the city shut down at 3:00 p.m. every day and I could retire to my cozy room with my usual provisions of cheese, bread, fruit, olives, jamon, and wine. Stayed a bit long but the rest and quiet was welcome.

Took a short bus ride to Madrid and Simon, whom I had met and traveled with in Greece, was there to meet me at the bus station. It was so good to see him again! After living in Madrid for several years, he was a great guide and took me to all of the must-see places! We checked out the Palacio Real, Plaza Mayor, and Puerta de Alcala at night, all lit up in Christmas lights. It was a beautiful sight and lots of other people thought so as well as the streets were packed with holiday shoppers! Simon kept me busy with trips to Puerto de Navacerrada for a hike in the snowy mountains, Reina Sofia (classy art museum), and Parque del Retiro. I checked out the Prado on my own. It took almost a full day and was right up there with the Uffizi, National Gallery, and Louvre. Free time was spent in Simon's favorite watering hole, Bar Rosi, a cozy, warm, and friendly bar, devouring tapas washed down with Spanish beer and watching his favorite football team, Atletico Madrid, play. I loved that the bars in Spain were a gathering place for all ages. Families, seniors, and young people alike. The bars are not a place to just tie one on, they're a place to socialize, eat, and watch football mostly.

My knee, which I apparently reinjured during my last trip to Italy, was getting more swollen and sore, so I broke down and went to a Spanish hospital to get it x-rayed and drained. The draining was unpleasant and produced a large quantity of blood, but it helped tremendously and I only had to stay off of it a few days. Simon turned out to be an excellent nurse with a wonderful bedside manner!

Took a side trip to Segovia after my recovery to check out the famous Roman Aqueduct, Alcazar of Segovia (Royal Palace), and Segovia Cathedral. Yet another gorgeous Gothic cathedral nestled in a quaint and friendly Spanish town with winding cobblestone streets and tasty tapas bars!

Seville turned out to be my favorite Spanish city. The cobblestone streets were lined with orange trees, the smell of orange blossoms strong and fragrant. The Cathedral of St. Mary was beautiful. I walked along the Guadalquivir River for miles admiring the fine homes on each side. Flamenco music filled the air everywhere I went. The Plaza de Espana, one of many crowded plazas, was lined with Orange trees and benches perfect for people watching. Alcazar Gardens was impressive and perfectly manicured and I spent hours wandering through it. I could live here, I really could.

New Year's Eve was spent at Simon's place in Torremolinos. He and I, along with his two pals, Steve and Phil, went to a Scottish bar (I'm guessing since the owner and bartender was a giant Scottsman wearing a kilt.) We partook in the traditional Spanish way of welcoming in the new year by eating 12 grapes at the stroke of midnight. It's supposed to bring 12 months of good luck! Torre was a lovely beach town filled with expats and European travelers. It's changed a bit since "The Drifters" was written but it's still a cool and happening place. Took it easy for a few days enjoying the balmy weather and doing a couple of side trips to Gibralter and Antequera.

Toledo was the last city I visited before heading out. Simon and I spent a quiet weekend there just roaming the cobblestone streets, viewing churches, sampling delicious baked goods, and generally just taking it easy. We had a great meal at a Chinese restaurant! Who would guess!

Back to Madrid for a few days before my flight to Delhi. I was really getting to know my way around Simon's neighborhood and enjoyed it immensely. I had a favorite bakery, coffee shop, mercado where I bought my meat, cheese, and vegetables, and the mall was right around the corner. I enjoyed seeing the neighborhood residents talking animatedly to each other on the streets, in the butcher shops, in the bakeries. The Spanish don't hurry much and I love them for that! They take their time in all they do. They enjoy life!