The instinctive feeling I get about a place when I get off the ferry, bus, or train usually sticks. Sometimes it changes fractionally while I travel through but usually not. I LOVED Ireland from the moment I stepped off the ferry!

As I stepped onto my first bus in the port city of Rosslare, realizing with misgiving that I had forgotten to change my Pounds to Euros on the ferry and promptly holding up the line of tired passengers behind me, the bus driver purred "love of me life, I love ye dearly, but you'll have to move yer precious self along now so I can get these other folks aboard." He let me pay with Pounds, which worked out well for the bus company, but at least he let me ride. He didn't have to. The Irish are very accommodating.

Stayed in Waterford (home of the famous crystal which I could only afford to admire) only one night. Had to get an expensive room at a Travel Lodge at least two miles outside of town which I walked to at 10 p.m. with another traveler. Serves me right for not booking ahead. Left for Cork the next day. It doesn't take long to get from one city to another by bus, the bus system being very efficient. The hostel in Cork was cool, used to be an old school. Took off the next morning in a light rain to visit the Butter Museum. Spent an hour learning everything about Derry Gold that I ever wanted to know but was afraid to ask. It was worth the 4€ as I watched an interesting film and saw lots of old tools and mechanisms used for producing butter. Plus, how many people can say they've been to a butter museum? Spent another two days in Cork visiting several beautiful churches, strolling through Fitzgerald Park and along St. Patrick's Quay, and shopping. Cork has a serious shopping scene. I really liked the English Market so I spent lots of time there sampling local baked goods. It was crowded and I came close to being pick-pocketed again! Had my pack all the way on this time but when I took it off to buy something, it was completely unzipped. Luckily, since it was raining, my phone was wrapped in a jacket at the bottom and my camera was in my pants pocket. If they had been in their usual places they would have been nicked. Vowed to buy a lock.

Moved on to Killarney, a quaint, touristy city full of cute pubs. Spent a couple of days shopping for pants which I still couldn't find. Was having a tough time finding them long enough. I knew I should have bought some in The Netherlands where people are tall! Was getting desperate as my only pair of jeans had become almost see-through in the seat and still had tree sap on them from sitting under a sappy tree in Split. How attractive! Shopped, did laundry, dined on wonderful pub food, and just generally bummed around for a couple of days before moving on to Cahersiveen in the Ring of Kerry. Stayed at a great hostel where I had a dorm room to myself. The place was cozy and homey and only three of us were staying there. The owner would build a roaring fire in the wood stove every night before leaving me to hang out in the cozy living room and watch the big screen tv. I started getting annoyed when new people checked in. Hiked the Beentee Loop Walk the next day. It was 9km and took about four hours through sheep and cow pastures, high over the marina, back into the hills, through mostly muck and mud, clinging to barbed wire fences up steep slopes. During particularly challenging portions of treks, I always think "Bill Pittman would love this!" Came upon some cows unexpectedly but they let me be. They were more surprised to see me than I them. The hike ended by passing through several copses and cobbled lanes lined with wild fuchsias. I never saw another person the entire time. Had another great pub meal of roasted chicken, mashed potatoes, and Guinness at a toasty little pub on the main street. Walking back to my hostel, I found that mass was commencing at Daniel O'Connell Memorial Church (he was born here) so I went in. There were lots of quick, curious glances my way but the congregation turned out to be really friendly.

Next day I trekked out to Ballycarbery Castle passing the Old Barracks Heritage Center along the way. Ducked in to take a tour of the barracks built in 1875 by the British government to house the Royal Irish Constabulary in order to protect their newly laid transatlantic cable. The place is a museum now full of Irish history concerning the potato famine, the life of Daniel O'Connell, the Fenian Uprising, and lots more. Pretty cool. Continued on to the castle which was all alone near the water's edge. There is grass growing in the middle and I surprised more cows who were happily grazing inside. Climbed all over it for an hour and then to the top for a great ocean view. No one else was around, just me and my bovine friends.

Headed to Dingle and stayed in another great hostel. My roomie was Greta from Germany who had just spent several months hitching through western Ireland. We hitched the next day out to Slea Head to get a good view of the Great Blasket Island and the beautiful beaches and rolling green hills that line the coast. It was so beautiful. Nothing but pastures full of cute, blackfaced sheep, cows, stone cottages, and old stone walls. We walked and hitched back into town and were picked up by two interesting and chatty women, one from Germany and one from England, who had made their homes in the area. Shopped a couple of days in Dingle for everything wooley and then headed to the tiny town of Doolin. Biked up to the the Cliffs of Moher one morning. It was ten miles, much further than I had anticipated, and all uphill. The cliffs were truly spectacular. It was a sunny day so viewing and picture taking was easy. Along with loads of other naughty travelers, I ignored the chains keeping folks away from the edge (people tend to fall or throw themselves from the cliffs regularly) and got a close up view. Upon returning to my rented bike, I realized I had a flat tire so I hitched a ride back to Doolin with a tour bus full of happy-to-be-on-holiday Italians.

Galway was my next stop mainly for the shopping. I was determined to get some new pants. Finally found a couple of pairs in the boys section of a cheap store called Pennys. How embarrassing but mission accomplished! Hung out another day and then headed to Dublin. Found a decent hostel and next day took a free walking tour which covered the must-sees: Trinity College, St. Stephen's Green, Leinster House, St. Patrick's Cathedral, Kilmainham Gaol, Christ Church Cathedral, Guinness Storehouse, Ha' penny Bridge, and the club where U2 was discovered. Spent several days hitting as many pubs as I could find (strictly for the tasty food...) and generally just wandering around. Dublin is a fabulous city. Oh, and it has the best hot chocolate on the planet. I could have stayed in Ireland for a very long time. It's got to be my favorite country so far hands down!

HOW LOW CAN I GO?

Swiped handfuls of ziplock baggies from the "liquids in carryons" station at Edinburgh Airport

Had to go without undies recently while my clothes were being laundered praying all the while that I wouldn't get in an accident and have to go to the emergency room like that.

Had to buy boys pants because I couldn't find any women's that were long enough.

Ran out of clean undies and had to hand wash them in the shower and then put them on wet. Thankfully they're synthetic and body heat dries them in an hour.

I swipe all coffee and tea in hotels now. The shampoo, lotion, soap, and conditioner are a given...

I've recently started using liquid hand soap in hostels to shower with in order to conserve my own soap.

Due to deplorable floor conditions/no hooks in public bathroom stalls, I've had to use the toilet wearing both of my packs while hovering over disgusting toilet seats. Takes great balance, leg strength, and much humility.