Took a bus to Melaka, Malaysia. My first overland border crossing was uneventful. Big and efficient customs/immigration stations on both sides. No exit or entry fees which is always welcome. Nothing but palm and bamboo trees on rolling hills as far as the eye can see. Melaka is a city rich in colonial history (Portuguese, Dutch, British in that order) and populated by mostly Chinese and Malays. Met a girl from Munich right after I checked in and she invited me to coffee and a yoga session. We picked up her French and Canadian friends and the four of us rode bikes across town. The class was brutal as I haven't done yoga in months and there was no a/c or open windows. Sweat was pouring off of me just standing still. It's a mystery how one is supposed to accomplish tree or eagle poses when sweat is running down one's legs. The five of us (yoga instructor included) biked to a Japanese restaurant where I had the best Japanese food ever. We sat and talked and then biked to Jonker Walk (weekend outdoor market) where thousands of people take advantage of cheap prices on food, jewelry, etc. We all went our separate ways although Melisande, from France, wants to meet in Thailand the end of April to go to Myanmar. That works out great as we both want to go but are a bit apprehensive about it. It was one of the best times I've had since I started my trip. Amazing how five strangers can bond so quickly.

Took the river cruise up the Melaka river. Saw several large Monitor Lizards (at least four feet long) at the river's edge drinking. Also took a trishaw ride to view all of the historical sites such as Dutch Square, St. John's Fort, St. Paul's Church ruins, St. Peter's Church, St. Francis Xavier's Church, Christ Church, and the Governor's Museum. The Dutch heritage is most prominent here as the Dutch occupied the city for 183 years. Maleka is colorful and quaint and the food is fantastic, especially the Chinese food. I ate dumplings for breakfast in an authentic Chinese restaurant ($1.80) and sliced pork BBQ ($5) for lunch that was tender but crunchy and gooey on the outside.

Kuala Lumpur

Took a bus to KL. Took one hour of walking to find my hostel. Seems no one had heard of it, including the taxi drivers, even though it's a really popular hostel. Hmmm. Arrived at my hostel dripping sweat, lungs burning, and in a foul mood. The guy from the hostel in Melaka that I shared a cab with, travelled on the bus with, and gave my extra Aussie adapter to, sprang from his seat when we got to KL and bounded off the bus without even a "see ya!" Then I was befriended at the bus station by a kindly, bespeckled, elementary school teacher from Melaka, who had apparently been on my bus, and who offered to help me locate my correct train line. I already knew it but whatever. People can be so sweet. After arriving at our stop, he asked me if I was online and promptly gave me his phone number and email scribbled on his newspaper (in case I needed help finding anything in the city) and said to please get in touch.

Took the Hop-On Hop-Off City bus tour with one of my German roomies, Marie. Was worth the money. Petronas Twin Towers were the highlight. They are the most beautiful modern buildings I have ever seen. They glitter when sunny and are lit up with white lights at night. I couldn't stop looking at them. They are steel and glass and look like a giant stack of steel rings up close. Visited the National Mosque (where we donned burkas), the National Museum, and KL Tower. Spent an entire day at the Berjaya Times Square Mall, the largest mall in Malaysia. 1,000 stores, 9-stories high, 3.5 million square feet! Got some great deals although shopping was a bit irritating as the sales people get up as soon as you walk into the store and follow you (one step behind) throughout the store, straightening every hanger that you have touched. Talk about retail OCD!

Was very happy to give my Aussie go-phone to my German roomie, Gudrun, who was headed to Sydney to look for work. She was happy, especially since it still had funds in it, and I was glad it went to a good home. Had several great Indian food meals in KL but was confused that I couldn't find some of my favorite items on the menus. Later found out from some travellers I met that they were Bangladeshi restaurants and not Indian. I'm so lame! Caught a nasty cough and chest cold (they call it chesty cough in KL, says so right on the cough medicine bottle) that I suspect is from the pollution in Jakarta, Singapore and KL combined. Could be wrong. Could also be from Mosquito Coil smoke.

Perhentian Besar Island

Took an 8-hour night bus to Kuala Besut and then a one-hour water taxi to Perhentian Besar Island. The bus ride was bad because I was sick and because the driver was horrible. The whole ride felt like when you are in a plane speeding down the runway and the pilot steers the wheels slightly back and forth (for some good reason I'm sure) before takeoff. Luckily, I met two 27-year old Polish doctors (who looked like they were 17) at the bus terminal in KL who sat right behind me so I was able to get some free medical advice regarding my ailments and how to treat them. Plus, I got lots of advice about travelling in Cambodia and Thailand, as they had just returned.

Checked into my rustic beach hut and promptly hit the beautiful, blinding, white sand and 85 degree water. The island was quiet and relaxing. Went snorkeling the next day and saw lots of colorful fish, big and small. At one point there were hundreds of very nosey Angelfish all around me. They actually nipped my feet. Didn't hurt. Then I saw it about 15 feet beneath me. A four-foot shark. It was a pretty creepy feeling although I had been told that black-tipped sharks will not attack humans. I later found out that the place we were snorkeling was called Shark Point. Great. I quickly swam to the boat and didn't go back in.

Found a secluded cove at the very end of the beach where I could snorkel and hang out. There were mostly European couples at my hotel and no one was particularly friendly so this suited me fine. A mom and pop restaurant nearby served fresh fish, calamari, and fruit smoothies every day. Way cheaper and better than my resort food. Nice family too. Ida wears the pants in the family of 10. She tried out her new seafood kitchen creations on me. Also met a really nice group of young people from KL who were there on a snorkeling trip. Connie, Dena, Andrew and Michael? I think. They filled me in on all things Malay and I really enjoyed their company. Too bad I met them on their last day! Figures.

Took a six-hour shuttle bus to Georgetown, Penang. Met a nice girl on the bus from France, Sarah, who is currently living in Hong Kong. She had stayed at Old Penang Guesthouse previously so we checked in. Beautiful, old home with 30-foot high ceilings on Love Lane. Was going to stay for a couple of days but my Thai visa took longer than expected and I wrenched my knee somehow so my stay turned into almost a week. Was able to see Little India and I wandered around the Chinese neighborhoods also. Went to Chowrasta Marketplace and checked out a used bookstore that covered the entire floor of a huge warehouse. There was a litter of baby kittens running around which made it entertaining. Funny how expensive used books are in SEA. A book that you can pick up at Goodwill for .50 is $5.00! Forget about new books! Also visited several Mosques and Buddhist temples. Should have seen the "Blue Mansion" (World Heritage Site) first but then who knew that my knee would blow out? Lesson learned. Always see the most important stuff first just in case...

Just Saying...

Why do people have to take so many pictures of the same damn thing? Especially when there are people obviously waiting to take pictures too. How many pictures does one need of a cannon? Does one need ten pictures of said cannon with each family member? I think not.

Since arriving in SEA, I've noticed that what's played on the radio is mostly American 70's music. Have not heard songs by Bread, Chicago, and Cat Stevens since, well, the 70's.

Why do long distance bus drivers insist on trying to refridgerate their passengers? They're all like this. Even wearing a hooded jacket, pants, a blanket, and eye mask, I'm still freezing. Hate to think how I must look. Scary. I'm not alone either. Every vent has been closed by passengers and several have various items such as kleenex, newspaper, and magazine pages jammed into them to block the remaining escaping air. I tried toilet paper but it kept flying out under pressure so I used the only other thing I had on me...pieces of dried mango. It worked great but I feel a bit guilty about defacing a bus.

Travel towells make a pretty good replacement for ace bandages in a pinch due to the high elastic content in them.