Took the "fast boat" back from Gili to Bali. It was two hours of misery. The ocean was rough and the captain was determined to arrive according to schedule no matter how bone-jarring the ride. Of course my bladder was full and I had a case of Bali Belly as well. Was hustled upon arrival into an overloaded, no a/c van with six others and a ton of luggage for the hour drive to Ubud. My van mate, Diko, from Finland, who was sick with the flu, and I limped up the hill from where the van dumped us, found rooms at a cheap homestay, and promptly crashed.

I switched homestays the next morning when I found out from the owner that he has cockfights every Sunday (it was Sunday) and I really wasn't ready for that. Found a great new place, beautiful with a lovely pool and it's own temple. I can't believe I'm turning down four-star hotels because they're too expensive at $43! Wow, have I become cheap. My new homestay was worth the extra money. The porch was lovely, especially in the evening. I sat reading with a pot of tea while the rain came down every evening. It rains every afternoon. It was practically perfect.

Diko and I went to the Sacred Monkey Forest where 537 monkeys live. . There were also three temples and a nice art exhibit. The young monkeys are fairly aggressive and you cannot get too close to them, put your hands in your pockets, or carry anything or they will jump on you thinking you have food.

Took a chance and hired a driver (they're everywhere) to see some sights outside of town. I was a bit apprensive about going into the countryside with two men I didn't know but the Balinese people are very sweet and shy and you have to just trust sometimes (and pray). For $30 I got to see lots of countryside. We went to Mengwi to see the Temple Taman Ayun, a coffee farm where they also grow tea and herbs, and Tabanan to see the famous rice terraces.

Treated myself to a one-hour massage as my neck and back hurt from wearing a heavy daypack everywhere I go. It was well worth the $6! Also went shopping and bought some beautiful silver jewelry.

There was a foot-long Gecko in my room when I came back. The owner said having Gecko's in your house is very auspicious but I insisted that he remove him. I can sleep with the little lizards but not one that big! Did you know that they make the sound "geck oh" very loudly? They do, and it's such a cute voice they have. Cuter outside.

Saw everyone drinking coconut juice from huge coconuts so I had one at the organic juice bar. It was fabulous and refreshing but only drink them if you're looking for a natural laxative or a quick colon cleansing...

Things I never thought I would do:

Wear the same socks three days in a row and consider socks worn only once still clean.

Take toilet paper from hostels/hotels and extra napkins from restaurants (hey I'm a patron!)

Take stuff that people left benind in hostel rooms. They obviously didn't want it or forgot it, and the hostel doesn't need it, plus I've left plenty of stuff so it's really trading not stealing.

Eat the garnish off my dinner plates (lettuce, radishes, carrots, cucumbers, tomatoes, even parsley!)

Shave with just the head of my Venus razor because I can't find a replacement handle anywhere. How sad!