We headed out at a respectable 8.30am with 540km to drive until Coober Pedy. Google suggests this is just over a 5 hour drive, but with lunch and rest stops required, we didn't arrive at our destination until 4pm.I'd expected us to reach desert straight away, but we passed two big lakes (Gairdner and Hart) and fairly lush scrubby vegetation up to Woomera. 6km off the highway, 2 hours north of Port Augusta, Woomera was a pleasant surprise. With connotations of refugee detention centres and a base for nuclear test sites, the small town was modern, clean, had a very nice public swimming pool, and a well-cared for park and picnic area. Built in 1947 as the base for British rocket and nuclear tests at notorious sites like Maralinga, the local indigenous tribes suffered greatly with many health problems still being noted in the 3rd generation. I expect the well-meaning scientists telling nomadic people to stay clear didn’t really register all that well.Paul and I are however very keen space enthusiasts, and Woomera is still the world's largest rocket test and evaluation centre.On this fine day, there was hardly a soul around. We had a good look around the missile park and then wandered down to Breem Park for a picnic lunch. There were peacocks, parrots and lush green grass for the kids to enjoy.It was another 4 hours north to Coober Pedy, and we checked into our family suite at the Underground Motel situated on a hill on the outskirts at around 4, parking the camper outside. There was time for a quick shower, change and drink before heading down to Josephine's Gallery and Kangaroo Orphanage for the 5.30pm feeding. They had 4 female red kangaroos out the back, and our host Terry brought out a 6 month old joey who was just starting to hop around. The girls were enthralled as were we and all of us got to feed the older ones wasabi crackers (they LOVE them) and some peanuts. Some kangaroo facts I didn't know before: about half of female red kangaroos are a smoky grey and called "Blue Fliers"; the kangaroo on the Qantas logo is a Blue Flier; female kangaroos can hold a fertilised egg for up to 2 years awaiting an optimum time; and can choose the sex. Amazing stuff. The powers that be in South Australia still consider them pests, so all injured kangaroos brought into Terry for help are not allowed to be released into the wild so he tries to find homes for them. The young joey we met was rescued by a station owner after it's mother was hit by a truck and drove it over 200km to Terry for care.We settled for some very decent Chinese takeaway and a glass or two of Skillogalee Riesling and watched the sunset over the many mounds of Coober Pedy.
Next morning, the girls did a little school work, and then we headed out to the "Old Timers Mine". Built in 1916 it was apparently hidden by miners for some reason, and not rediscovered until a dugout home punched through into the labyrinth of tunnels. Donning hard hats we wandered through the tunnels on our terrific self-guided tour. They had plenty of mannequins showing how the miners worked, nooks and crannies, and even some real opal veins embedded in the rock (sadly covered by perspex). We then proceeded through the museum into a demo modern underground home and finally into the shop (Yippee!) for a birthday present for me. A very worthwhile morning had by all. A couple of other interesting sightseeing spots we visited was the Serbian Church south of town and a drive by of the spaceship from the movie "Pitch Black" crashed outside an opal shop. Wonder what Vin Diesel thought of Coober Pedy.Off out for Greek food tonight - did I mention the town is very multicultural with 45 nationalities represented? Hoping to head out early tomorrow for another 530km to Erldunda - the turn off for Uluru and the Olgas.