Hi again,

Well at Lake Titicaca we had our first "near death" experience of our adventure as you will see. We set off on our 2 day trip in perfect sunshine in a little covered motor boat, first heading to the Island of Euros which is a man made island of Totara reeds. Outrageous really as for a 1000 years these people have labourously made islands which have to be relayered every month and abandoned for a new one every 25 years. They cut the soil by diving under the water and then rope it together, then cover it with at least 8 layers of reeds!!!! There whole existence is dependant on the reeds, they eat them, build boats and houses from them, make baskets etc. Was weird to see a reed house with solar panels on the roof and TV and stereos inside. Of course a lot of the livlihood now is from tourists.

Then on to the next Island, 3 hours on the boat to our "homestay with a local family. On the way the boat cut out a couple of times and the bilge pump didn{t seem to be working as well as the Capitano wanted. Meanwhile we hit the "open sea" part of the Lake so the wind, and subsequently the swell, picked up, and picked up. We started to rock from side to side, it started to rain, and before long had we developed a serious tilt to both sides as we hit the waves with enormous thumps. The boat tilted so much a few more inches and the water would have poured in the windows. I decided it was time to move from the back into the cabin and hold on. Just then the engine cut out and it seemed we might be in serious trouble as by now both the guide and the Capitano were running backwards and forwards, and looking seriously worried. Lucky with a lot of screwdriver bashing, putting wet rags on the wires (yip he did) the engine started and we limped into a jetty on the opposite side of the island to where we were supposed to go, amid much relief and nervous laughter.

With my dislike of water I must admit one more tilt and I would have been in that life jacket. The worst and kindof funniest thing was no one realised until afterwards that two young guys were on the roof the whole time, they must have been swung way out over the water each time but were too scared to let go and climb inside!!!!! They assigned us to different families and we had just got inside when a huge squall hit, the rain pelted down, and the wind blew with hurricane force. If we had been out in that we definately wouldn{t have made it in. So that is our "Survival at Sea episode.

While we took some deep breaths and visited the "Banos" (toilets) the local cooked us food and organised for the fiesta that night. Cass you would have laughed as they made us dress up in local costume. Of course it was OK for the guys, simply a hat and poncho, but us girls has a gathered skirt, embroidered blouse, cumerband, and shawl type thing, all of which did have somewhat of an odour clinging to them. Then camr the dancing to this beautiful Lyre type instrument. Each song was about 10mins, we only 4 for the evening, and they all sounded the same!! What the dances lacked in steps they made up for with gusto nearly pulling our arms out of their sockets. Still they are all so friendly, and so kind and giving tho they have nothing. To get anywhere for anything is a 3-4 hour boat ride.

We are now in Copacabana in Bolivia but you will have to wait.

Love the Clarks