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Tuesday 17th February
That night I headed out with Kim, Damien, Sarah, Elaine and Cheryl to an Irish bar to have a drink. I only stayed long enough to have the one cider and watch some of the craziness that was happening.
The kids next to us were British and the most drunk one tried convincing Damien that he was Irish too. It didn't work. But then he convinced a rather drunk Cheryl that he was scottish and kept up the charade for the next 5/10minutes as she tried to have an in depth conversation with him about scotland. I think he soon regretted his actions!
Arriving back at the accommodation I found that Maria hadn't collected the key on returning meaning there was no power. I went back out and found a guy waiting in the dark for me to get the key- Let there be light!
Wednesday 18th February
Today we left Vang Vieng to head to Vientiane. This involved a minivan to the coach station and then a 3/4hr drive followed by an unexpected tuk tuk transfer.
The tuk tuk was meant to be included as the coach didn't drop us where it should, but we spent a rather interesting ride watching the driver argue with people getting off and refusing to pay. He was pretty aggressive but also quite convincing in his claim not to have been compensated.
After having tried to chuck us off a few times, we eventually got him to take us to our hotel where Sarah had the hotel management deal with him- the bus ticket was part of our accommodation deal so they can sort out what's owed and what's not.
Tonight I would be on my own in my room which I was grateful for as I'd had a headache for a few days which just wouldn't go away. Line had kindly leant me her tiger balm so I was hoping between that and my tablets it would ease off.
A couple of hours later we met up with Sarah who took us down to the river front and through the huge night market. We ate at another 'friends' restaurant which trains street kids so they have a better life.
I have to say this was one of the worst menus for me. Nothing really appealed so I went for a fruity drink and Laos sausage dish. Both were okay, but nothing special.
Still feeling tired and fighting a headache, I decided to leave soon after eating. Lin, Sherry, John and I made our way back via the night market. Each looking for a specific something but not finding it.
We briefly detoured to the river front only to slightly regret it as a westerner was resisting arrest. Its one of those situations where you don't know what's going on but have to trust that he's being arrested for a reason. That thought doesn't help much though when he's screaming and begging for help though.
Back at the accommodation I spent the next few hours relaxing before another restless nights sleep. So much for some peace!
Thursday 19the February
This morning I woke up fairly early, still with the headache so I didn't rush up. We had breakfast included so I made my way down mid morning and stuffed myself on that.
We only had 24hrs in Vientiane but I really wasn't feeling up to much. I waited to almost check out time and then spent the next couple of hours wandering the city. I had planned on visiting the COPE centre which is all about the unexploded land mines still all over Laos. I thought this would be especially interesting given the figures made from the metal that we had seen at the market the night before.
Unfortunately while I eventually found the right area I must have walked straight past it without realising! I could have easily gone back but to be honest it was so hot I just carried on.
Instead I walked through what was left of the morning market. Now this is really for locales and is pretty grungy. With dirty tarps thrown over head and rubbish on the ground, it was a busy place to be.
Continuing my walk I headed for the Palace on the river front. Walking along here during the day is rather different with the place looking decidedly quiet. People were relaxing on the grass and a few were taking pictures. But not many people were there in comparison to the night before.
On circling back near to the hotel, I looked for a cafe with wifi. In the end I spent about an hour in the Scandinavian bakery which apparently has the best donuts ever. It was big, fluffy and filling...but the best ever? I think I may need to try some more before deciding :)
Needing to get snacks for our next journey I popped across to the minimart- running into both Maria and Sarah while there! As luck would have it as I left the truck carting around the 'Lion Dancers' had just parked a few doors down.
The 'Lion Dance' is a way to welcome the Chinese new year (and the Lunar one) and Chinese people will often welcome the dance into their homes or place of business as a way to ward off bad luck. I had heard the New Year celebrations the night before and seen these performers driving through the streets all morning, but this was my first proper glimpse into what takes place.
At 3pm we were in the hotel lobby waiting for everyone to arrive. Once they had we piled into a minivan and travelled 40minutes or so to the Laos boarder check out. Here we paid 20,000 Kip to stamp out of the country and then killed about 30minutes waiting to leave another no man's land.
While waiting everyone was getting snacks with what remained of their Kip. I made friends with a local cat and Elaine shared her special Pepsi which was quite amusing as Damien somehow missed the 'special' part. He was quite surprised to find the whisky in it! After we finished that off it was time to board the train that would take us across the border.
It only took 10minutes and after power walking off the train we all made it to the passport desk in the first half of the queue. Okay yes I refused to push ahead of people so I was further behind than most :)
Once through the checkpoint we boarded our overnight train to Bangkok. It would be a 12hr journey and the train itself was set out differently from the trains we took in Vietnam so we took awhile to settle ourselves in.
Whereas we had 4berth cabins before, this train had a row of beds each side of the aisle. The bottom bunk was made of two seats which would be converted into a bed and the top bunks were pull down ones. You had a curtain to separate you from the aisle and give you some privacy but you had no choice over when your bed would be made up.
Well, that's slightly untrue. Upon boarding a guy came around offering a food menu. Lin ordered fries so we had a makeshift table up between our seats so our beds couldn't be made up yet. 45minutes later we were still waiting on the fries and when they did turn up it was 5 fries with a sandwich! 20minutes after that, Lin finally got what she'd actually ordered!
In the meantime Damien was spiking drinks left, right and centre. Not that I'm complaining- rum and mountain dew might not be the best of combinations, but it's better than the Pepsi and whisky concoction!
With the beds all made up I climbed into my bunk fairly early and just alternated between talking to the group and reading. I tried sleeping early on and I think I got an hour or two but after that I spent just as much time awake, as asleep. This train was much more jerky than the Vietnamese ones!
Friday 20th February
Despite being awake early, I hid behind my curtain for a long while because otherwise the guy would insist on making my bed up. I got away with this for a good 40mintues before he poked his head in with a loud, sarcastic 'good morning'.
Arriving back at Erawan house a while later, I spent the next few hours in the lobby. After awhile I got hungry and decided to go get breakfast. Since I had missed the pancake breakfast last time we were in Bangkok, I decided to head there.
Turns out most of the group that wasn't in the hotel lobby, were actually here. I ordered my iced tea and blueberry pancakes and waited in anticipation.
They were amazing! Pancakes covered in blueberries, ice cream and surrounded by crumble. So unhealthy but so very good too. It took me a long while to get through them but I did eventually achieve it.
While everyone went off and did their own thing, I stayed and spent some time reading. By the time I returned to Erawan House, mine and Lines room was ready.
The rest of the day was spent not doing too much to be honest. I had forgotten how humid Bangkok is and its a real struggle to want to do anything here!
I did wander and do a little shopping but we were meeting at 4.30 for our farewell evening so that was a good excuse to get out of the heat a while.
We squeezed 5 into a taxi again, with me twisted on my side. By the time we had reached our destination about 40minutes and many near misses later, I had managed to change into a more comfortable position. This was particularly lucky as one side of my whole leg had gone numb!
We were having drinks at a skybar near where Sarah used to live in an area we hadn't visited before. It had good views of this part of Bangkok and was the perfect place to watch the sun go down.
So the drinks as ever in these bars were pretty expensive. Not as bad as the one in Ho Chi Minh though and at least it was buy one get one free here.
I stuck with beer since I didn't want to drink on a fairly empty stomach. I think it says a lot that after just one and a half bottles, I was still feeling the effects! Clearly i've not been drinking enough!
Leaving the bar we made for Cabbages and Condoms, a restaurant Sarah had been talking up all week. Cabbages and condoms was started to promote safe sex in a time and area where it very rarely happened. Between diseases and pregnancies, it became a real issue and this restaurant is a fun place with the dual purpose of entertaining and educating.
The restaurant itself is really cool with all the decorations such as lampshades etc, being made from condoms. They have full outfits made of condoms, a spin the wheel type game and even a gift shop all centred around safe sex. Plus lots of posters giving you information on why safe sex is so important.
..They even give you condoms with your bill!
Towards the end of the evening we were having trouble getting our bills paid. With Cheryl, Sherry, John and Elaine having an early flight to Burma in the morning, the rest of us hung back while they and Maria got there's sorted and left.
Once our own bills were paid we had to walk some to get a taxi as a lot of them didn't want to go the distance we were asking or they didn't have a meter.
Saturday 21 February
This morning I took my time getting up. For the first time in about 2 weeks I had slept deeply and for a reasonable amount of time. I hadn't even heard Line get up and leave!
When I did get up (still about 8am) I showered, dressed and decided to head to Gecko for breakfast. Turns out Line was already there, having found more French Canadians to talk to.
Not long after I arrived a guy sat at the table next to me and started chatting. Turns out Paul is also from Quebec but is 5 months into 1 year travelling South East Asia. He's currently laid up in Bangkok after injuring his foot. Before this though he'd been enjoying rock climbing etc in more remote parts of asia etc.
Pauls one of these people who had started to wonder why he did what he did- IT tech- and so decided to get away and figure out what he wants from life. This I can relate to. Its the selling all of his stuff before coming away that I find equally brave and crazy at the same time!
Saying goodbye to Paul an hour later, I left Gecko and walked across to the river front for a brief walk. Once back at the hotel I found that my new room was ready. With the tour officially being over Line and I had both booked single rooms for our last few nights in Bangkok. Gathering up my stuff I made the move and just chilled out awhile.
A little later I ran into Line who informed me Kim, Sarah and her were heading to Boris' for lunch. So of course I joined them. I mean having poutine while in Thailand is normal, right? We had a good time just relaxing and chatting. Again trying to figure out which team Boris bats for. Where's Damien when you need him?
The rest of the day I spent shopping for a bikini with Kim before she left and then I went to get pampered. Having had the same blue vanish on my toes since Hoi An (albeit there was very little left of it!) I decided to get another mani pedi before the next part of my journey.
I wasn't impressed with the manicure I'd had the last time we were here so I wandered around to see where I could find. Eventually deciding on a place in the alley between our road and Khao San road.
I was quite nervous because as soon as I got settled, I heard two girls complaining about the state of their manicures. It turns out I needn't of worried- they were British, they had to complain about something!
The girl who did mine was more than competent and really went to town on my feet too which after 5 weeks wearing flip flops in these polluted areas, was much appreciated. I still enjoyed my Hoi An mani pedi experience the best - they do say you always remember your first- but I think this was the best of jobs.
Leaving here I made my way back towards the hotel. My next mission was a full hour Thai massage at the place next door which both John and Maria had recommended. Yep. Less than an hour later I knew never to do. Thai again!
If I thought the end of my half hour one was slightly painful, it was nothing compared to this! The whole hour HURT! Seriously I know I have a low pain threshold but this was silly. That's before she started pulling me about too. I have a friend back home who's massages I hate because there so rough- I think I now know the perfect career for her! Oh well. Live and learn. At least I was still able to move afterwards.
By now it was mid evening so I really didn't do much more apart from get the braids put in my hair.
After much debate I still wasn't sure about braiding the sides of my head so instead I stuck with getting 3 coloured braids threaded into my hair at the back. Complete with feathers. Despite a conversation about the length I wanted them, I still came away with them a good inch longer than I'd wanted but at least I'd finally gotten them after weeks of debate. Win.
Sunday 22nd February
Since Line and I were the only ones staying in Bangkok past today (Damien, Maria and Sarah were going to be on an overnight bus later on) we decided to do a day trip.
Line wanted to do Erawan Falls and I agreed though I mentioned the possibility of a trip to the Bridge over River Kwai. As luck would have it, the tour Line liked did both.
So at 7.30am we were eating breakfast in the lobby waiting for our pickup. I don't know what it is about Erawan House but so many people have trouble finding it. 40minutes later we were on a minibus but rather than heading out we had to swap passengers. Apparently they'd picked the wrong ones up!
When we reached the falls a little after 11am we had a girl tell us what time to be back at the meet point -3pm for us- depending which tour you were a part off. It got a little confusing but then the whole tour part of this trip was a shambles throughout the day.
We were then escorted to the first of the falls and told which were best for swimming, which had make shift slides and how many of the 7 falls we could see given our allotted time. Line and I immediately agreed to head to the very top and work our way back down.
I have to admit despite the humidity and the climb (How is it that I was in flip flops?!) the falls were beautiful. We could only imagine how much more spectacular they will be when the wet season arrives.
The falls were busy despite it being the dry season so after having reached the top, we began the climb back down, looking for somewhere a little more secluded. As it happened we found somewhere quickly but soon discovered lots of ants on the trees we'd tied our bags too.
Moving on we looked for somewhere with rocks where we could dump our stuff. This next little hiddy hole we found required careful manoeuvring down into the water but once there, it proved perfect. The water was cold and I admit it took me a lot longer to fully submerge myself than it did Line who just did it straight away!
All of Erawan falls different levels have fish in them but luckily this little falls only had the smallest ones in. That said they tickled like hell, which answered that question that had been in my mind since arriving in asia. Should I try the fish tanks?
Nope your alright thanks, no way am I paying for that!
We spent a while here before taking pictures, eating Lines leftover pizza and moving on. Our next little escape was made at another little pool just off the track. As we passed we saw some girls packing up and made the decision to claim it as our own.
Here they had bigger fish than before. I mean anywhere between 2inches and 1ft bigger! This being the case we carefully made our way to the rocks in the middle of the water- neither one of us was keen on trying these big fish out! Luckily they stuck to the side with the deeper water but that didn't stop the others from swarming us whenever we dared enter the pool.
Later on we would see a little boy of around 7yrs old giggling hysterically over the fish tickling him. Picture this but with 2 full grown adults...
...there may have been shrieks heard as well from us...
We tied our visit up again with some more pictures. As I moved about I came close to injuring myself as I slipped on the rocks. Luckily I went backwards and the water was deep enough to cushion the fall. Ouch, that was close.
Once we'd sorted ourselves out we walked the rest of the way down to the 1st of the falls. Here we stopped and got some pineapple to share and dried out in the sun a little before going back to the meet point.
Once we arrived here we had our included lunch which was lovely but in the heat a bit much.
Moving on we were in another minivan with another set of people. Here we travelled to the Bridge over the River Kwai. I expect you all know the story of how POW and slaves during WW2 built the railway with many lives lost due to the conditions. I'm talking thousands of lives- the belief being one life per sleeper laid in the track.
After half an hour here we got back into yet another van, with yet more new people to make the 2 1/2hour journey back to Bangkok. Despite sleeping better than I had in ages, I did keep falling asleep!
We were dropped at the bottom of Khao San road so once Line got her bearings I peeled off, having made plans to meet for a farewell breakfast in the morning.
I was being lazy. All I wanted to do was sleep but since they'd dropped us here I decided to get a couple more braids done. Again they were longer than discussed but I liked that I got an elephant charm in place of a feather. Fitting for this part of my trip I think.
On the way home I also stopped at a pharmacy and also got a chocolate and banana pancake for dinner. Time to enjoy my single room!
Monday 23rd February
Meeting Line at 9am we decided to go to the pancake place as her leaving treat. We took a leisurely breakfast and discussed what we would get upto today. I offered Line the use of my room as her flight wasn't until late and she had to check out at 12 so at least I knew I'd see her later.
I passed the day by finding the post office to send a small parcel home. I have to admit it was much easier and cheaper than I'd feared. I also stocked up on toiletries while out so im ready for the next leg of my journey.
Then on the way back I decided to try a swedish massage for a change. Given that the Thai ones were too harsh for me, I thought this would be a nice relaxing one.
I wasn't completely wrong but honestly I wasn't that enamoured with it either and at the end it became more like a Thai one. Is there something in the rule book that says all massages in Thailand have to hurt?
After this I had a long lunch at the Joy Luck Club which Sarah had taken us to before. It was cool, quiet and had good music and wifi. Not a bad place to spend an hour or so.
I spent a few hours checking through my travel plans. Confirming transfers, flights and accommodation etc. I said goodbye to Line as she made her way downstairs to get her airport transfer. I was sad to see her go as we've had a lot of fun times together but then I'm just glad to have had the chance to get to know her. Who knows. With family in Ontario and a desire to travel up to Nova Scotia at some stage, our paths could well cross again.
After 5 weeks travelling as a group it seemed awfully odd to be the last of the group left in the city. I did briefly go out to grab something for dinner but I soon headed home as the craziness of Bangkok wore thin a while ago.
Tuesday 24th February
So two good nights sleep seem to be the most im allowed so after another not so peaceful night, I woke up around 7am. I stayed in bed to once again check travel plans and message people (My own room had wifi- yippee!).
Once up I decided to have breakfast at the pancake place again. But I was good- I only had yogurt covert muesli with banana. After taking my time at breakfast I went back to the hotel, checking to see if my laundry was ready. Being told no I reminded them that I had to check out in a little more than 2 hours and they had agreed it would be ready by 10am so I could pack. 20minutes later I went downstairs to check again and this time it was there. Now to get organised.
Luckily my bag fitted everything with a little room to spare but my daypack is jammed as I'm having to take layers to wear. Not ideal since I noticed a big tear in the dividing panel yesterday. Oh well I'm not buying another one unless I absolutely have to, so I'll see how I go.
Having packed and checked out, I left my luggage in storage and went out for an hour or so before once again going to Jaywalk (aka the pancake place!). This time I just had a sandwich and a coke and chilled out as in long trousers I was way too hot to do anything else.
By 2pm I was back at the hotel killing time until my transfer turned up. It was a good 40minutes earlier than what it was meant to be so I was glad I'd gotten my bags out when I had as it was a bit of a rush not to keep him waiting. But still it's good to be on the move as I hate waiting for these types of things as that's when my nerves kick in. Plus earlier is way better than being late and with the traffic in Bangkok I would probably need the extra time. Not to mention the dreaded airport itself!
A round up of my time in South East Asia.
So before I left home, before I ever made any solid plans for my sabbatical, the one thing that scared me the most, was South East Asia. On the one hand I wanted to go and see these places, experience the different cultures and the peoples way of life. But on the other hand, they don't speak english, their rules and regulations are often made up as they go along and just getting from A to B would be difficult to navigate. In summery, it was so far out of my comfort zone I wasn't sure if I could do it.
And when I did eventually book it, I wasn't sure it wasn't a mistake on my part.
Now 5 1/2 weeks later I can safely say it was the right decision to make.
I may have only touched the surface in these places and I know from speaking to Sarah that there's plenty I've not seen or could even comprehend but the little I have seen, has shown me that it's not nearly as scary as I imagined. Yes things can get complicated, delayed and even made up as you go along here. But the Asian people themselves are pretty laid back so there's little need to worry over much.
Vietnam
I feel that with 2 weeks in Vietnam I got to know this country and it's people better than the other countries we visited. The landscape wasn't exactly what I'd expected overall but it sure had its beautiful parts.
I will always remember being surprised at the long sandy beaches along the coast. I'm not sure why I didn't expect this, what with the length of Vietnam being coastal, but never the less it was a nice surprise.
Also something I will remember of the country is that the people in the north seem happier and more friendly than those south. Is this to do with the divide? Or is it simply more built up for tourism, losing some of the culture along the way?
The easiest Thank you ever- Comeon
Cambodia
Our next stop was Cambodia and while I had a great time here- if emotional given the history of Phnom Penh- I never felt we got to know the locals as we did in Vietnam. The only real glimpses or interaction I felt we had was the night Line, Lawrie and I went to dinner in Phnom Penh and saw families living on the street and explored some of the not so nice streets walking back to the hotel. And the day Lawrie and I went riding, we saw little villages which clearly showed the poverty the everyday person lives in here. Our guide was also brilliant and as friendly as we"d been told Cambodians would be.
Cambodian history touched me the most out of the 4 countries I visited. Is it because the history isn't so far into the past? Or is it simply that it was Cambodian against Cambodian, with no real reason to speak of? I suspect it was a little of both.
Hello- Su sa day
Thank you- Okom
Thailand
Now with Thailand I mostly saw Bangkok which I knew I was unlikely to like. But still I have to say I expected more from them despite not visiting the islands Thailand is famous for.
I enjoyed the scenery as we travelled further north and I can't say I minded Chiang Mai. That said we didn't really visit any smaller towns or get to know many people as we travelled through the country. I'm glad to have seen it, but I wasn't blown away at any point.
Hello- Sawadee
Thank You- Ka- Put-Ka
Laos
Now without a doubt Laos was my favourite country based purely on the scenery. Again I felt we were short changed in time and a decided lack of opportunity to get to know the people.
We did experience the laid back nature of the Laotians though... In every bus, train or boat trip we took! Its Laos time, as the saying goes.
As we did do a lot of travelling, we saw a lot of the country itself though. Be it by boat or bus, it was astounding and some of the best i've ever seen. I may come back one day!
Hello- Sab-a-dee
Thank You- Kup-Chai
Thank you very much- Kup- Chai- Li-Li
And in case anyone hasn't seen my long philosophical ramble that I wrote between Luang Prabang and Vang Vieng, here it is...
Sometimes when we travel we do it because we're seeking something. It could be knowledge, culture, a place to settle and call our own or any number of other reasons. But for me, I think it's to find myself.
I know that sounds cliché but when I'm away from home my personality completely shifts.
I go from a b****y sarcastic stress head to a -fairly- calm and chilled out person who's not too bad at going with the flow.
My other characteristics don't simply disappear. They just mellow. I still have many sarcastic moments and I still get stressy when things become overly complicated for no reason. But it's no longer the be all and end all.
I may appear to be pretty quiet around people I don't know but I take it all in. And while I miss my friends and desperately wish they could experience this journey with me, I know that leaving for however long was the right choice for me.
Sometimes at home we get so bogged down in the everyday routine that any change seems monumental. But when I'm away experiencing different cultures, exploring different countries and meeting people of all religions and backgrounds, I want more.
I want there to be more to my life than drifting through it. I want to be more, do more and experience more. This doesn't even expand to more travel. I just want to live my life to the fullest every day so that when I look back on my life I can say I lived it.
I always tell people that I would rather regret the things I did do, than those I didn't.
Its far too easy to allow fear to overwhelm this philosophy but life is made for living. So if there's something that intrigues you, even a little, jump straight in and see how quickly you learn to swim.
Whether I live to be a hundred or die tomorrow. This is the life I want to have lived.
It wouldn't be an easy path to take. It would be scary and tiring more often than not.
I may be exhausted and broke at the end of it. But I want to be able to say that I lived to the best of my ability. I took chances. Loved as deeply as possible. And experienced as much as possible.
This is what travel gives to me.
A thirst for more. A knowledge that it is possible. And a belief that sometimes the risks pay off and even when they don't, you know that you tried your hardest. And you have lived.
- comments
Bozzo Well done and well said. Another bunch of experiences and memories to add to your collection. Keep on enjoying!