El Calafate Saturday 5th November 2016

Today we would be doing the Purito Moreno Glacier. One of the reasons I wanted to come to Patagonia. Of course I’ve already been here...virtually at least....

You see at the gym I use they have the computers where you can listen to music and watch tv etc. They also have different places for you to ‘work out’. I.e. I can revisit Nz on the treadmill by watching the video of a run I’ve already actually done( or even one I haven’t). Or I could do a Canadian Rockies hike. You get the picture. Usually I like to revisit places I’ve been as it reminds me of good times. But one of the walks is of this glacier. And its impressive.

The journey to the Glacier from where we’re staying is a couple of hours long. On the way we passed a herd of horse’s being herded by a collie dog. It seemed like a well known routine given how relaxed the dog was as the lead horse made the correct turn while he was still getting the stragglers at the back. Still he was quickly reminded by the handler in the truck following behind, to get back to work as he wandered off to sniff the bushes and mark territory.

We made a quick stop at a station where there was a nice view and a herd of sheep lounging around. Looking inside I took interest in a series of 3 pictures of two of dogs versus a lone puma. The pictures didn’t show the outcome.

After watching what looked like someone working with a younger horse beside a corral in the distance, I took some pictures of the rainbow that had come out before we took off. Arriving at the Glacier we were given the option of taking a boat out for a different view later on. Most of us were interested and that left us around 2 ½ hrs to walk as far as we wanted along the boardwalks parallel to this immense wonder.

I cant describe how amazing it is. Its 5 km at its widest point and an average of 240ft high. There’s ice calving off it regularly-which we got to see more than once- and its one of the only growing glaciers in the world. Walking mostly with Nadia, Cian, Dennis and Kim we did most of the walk in the snow. And not just a little snow. Im talking the biggest of flakes that we would get back in the UK. But it was worth it.
And seeing these huge bits of ice come tumbling down to join the many icebergs already in the lake, is something you have to see to believe. We were afraid to look away and couldn’t help scanning the area when we heard the accompanying thunder, even though we know that the sound comes after the calving.

Back at the cafeteria area, we bought our tickets for the boat trip and headed inside to try and warm up before an hour on the lake. This was only slightly successful but soon null and void as we spent much of the time up on deck. From this close up (still 300meters away for safety) we could see the waves created from the ice falling into the water. They weren’t small.

Back in El Calafate we had a little time to ourselves before going out for a group meal. Since finding out it would be the same restraunt as the night before, I didn’t really want to go but it would be the last night for half of the original group and I didn’t feel I could miss it.

I ended up sharing what was a huge selection of meat and a few sides with Mary, Lynette and Liz. Oh and a bottle of wine. As with the night before, the meat was amazing but again having seen sheep up close earlier in the day, it did seem a little too close to home, delicious though it was.

We ended the night with a quick drink at a bar down the road as it was Jens birthday. A fact she had kept very quiet. Back in my room I scribbled a quick note for Ming incase I didn’t wake up to say goodbye before she left at 5.30am. Luckily though it wasn’t necessary.

El Calafate, Argentina to Puerto Natales, Chile Sunday 6th November 2016

Well today the group would be breaking up and I was sorry to see it happen. While we have acquired more additions to our group, I will miss the originals from the last 2 weeks.

Heading out to the open corridor joining our rooms to the main building, I saw snowflakes. Lots and lots of snowflakes. The roads were wet so the snow wasn’t sticking but sitting on the second floor to eat breakfast with snowflakes fluttering past the windows was an oddity. Of course those in our group from Canada and America weren’t too impressed!

After staying goodbyes to Ann, Grant and Mary who were still in the hotel this morning we all got loaded onto Rosita. For many this would be the first time on her so Isabella did her talk introducing her.

Five minutes later and we’d only moved maybe 5 feet. Backwards.

So back into the hotel we go and after an hour and a half of Isabella tinkering and phone calls all around, it was determined that Rosita was dead. At least for the foreseeable future.

Luckily the owner of the hotel Dave was
really helpful and has his own buses so he helped Jen start making other arrangements. Not easy as its a border crossing day and we’re going camping which means, tents, sleeping bags and food. The latter of which we skipped as Toucan managed to agree a deal at the campsite that they feed us.

While Jen was dealing with this, Isabella began organising us to make lunches as they were included today and being so late leaving and not having our own truck we wouldn’t be stopping on the way to Puerto Natales. Luckily this hotel is also part hostel so they have a common kitchen for us to use and organise ourselves.

Soon we were transferring everything we needed onto the bus to began the long journey to the border. Within 10minutes we knew it would just be one of those days as the driver turned around just outside of town and then proceeded to go around a roundabout. 3 times.

He did then pull over but it turns out he’d forgotten something as had Jen. Luckily someone ran them out to us rather than going back again.

The hardest part of the day for us was that because the Argentine bus didn’t have the correct paperwork-and the two countries hate each other- we would have to take not only our bags but also all the camping stuff that we needed along no mans land. Which in this case happened to be 7km long! Luckily the border agents on this side – well both to be fair- were really helpful and allowed the bus to go as far as the Chilean border so long as it didn’t cross over and they had 2 agents accompany us at all times.

A relief given that this area does have snow on the ground.

Once at the Chilean border we created a line to pass all the baggage down as everything had to be scanned before we could proceed to get our passports stamped. Dennis of course had an apple in his bag he didn’t know about. Then proceed to put it in his pocket rather than hand it in.

The bus that was supposed to meet us as soon as we crossed the border wasn’t on the way as we were originally told. After cooling our heels for an hour or so it turned up and we made the short but wet journey to Puerto Natales. Checking in the solo girls swapped about as Nadia and I wanted to share and for some reason Toucan were splitting everyone up in weird ways. Once in our room we made a quick trip to a small supermarket as we had been told to stock up on water, snacks and alcohol before making our way to Torres Del Paine.

A quick burger for dinner in a pub type restraunt where the guys were messing with the microphone and amusing us and themselves. After that I walked around the now closed for the night town and from what I saw it would have been a nice place to spend a few daylight hours.

Even taking the Rosita issues out of it I think Toucan need to be looking at the amount of time sat on a truck doing nothing. Yes its overland trip but surely we should get at least a couple of decent hours in a place to explore or hike?

Puerto Natales to Torres del Paine, Monday 7th November 2016

Today we had to travel north after coming so far south to cross the border yesterday. We made a couple of brief stops for photos and one shop/ coffee stop where a lot of us got extra layers in the form of gloves, hats and/ or socks.

As we approached the Parque we soon began to see the beauty that is Torres del Paine. Brilliant blue lakes with jagged mountain rocks behind. A winding dirt road twisting around, always surprising you with the next hidden view.

Once at the campground we began by
putting our tents up. A rather interesting 30minutes as I’ve only done assisted camping once and that was in the outback with swags. Nadia has done it a few times in the past but as of this morning has 3 busted fingers. Middle name Grace. Ha and people think im clumsy!

After fumbling around for a few minutes the Irish boys came and helped. Well I say ‘helped’. They pretty much did it for us! But in our defence we did then go help Chu who was on his own. Once the tents were up and the baggage inside we went to the restraunt and had lunch with a choice of chicken or beef.

We did a hike behind the campsite that afternoon up on top of this massive rock. It had a steep climb to the top but my god did the wind make this more difficult. Once on top I could barley stand up and spent the majority of the time crouched low down.

Back at the campground we froze a little waiting for dinner. An hour and a half after we were told it would be. But hey we all had alcohol to warm ourselves up. Rum for Nadia and me though if anyone got stuck Matt and Nikki had enough to stock a bar.

Dinner was the exact same choice as at lunch causing more than a few groans. Myself included. But at least the campground has nice a nice shower block.

Torres del Paine Tuesday 8th November 2016

One night down and two to go!!

So we survived the first night camping and I cant believe im saying this but I was nice and warm. Nadia didn’t fair to well in her sleeping bag making me glad to have rented mine!

The aim of today was to do part of the well known ‘W’ walk here. The part we would be doing was to the base of the towers. Two jagged peaks with a glacier lake in front of it. We were told it would take about 8hrs as a minimum. 4 hours of steep up with the last 45mins being by far the worst.

By the time we were an hour in I knew I wouldn’t make it the whole way. A real shame but given how unfit I am and the ‘up’ factor (plus I’ve been fighting a bad headache the last two days) its not too surprising. The only question was how far to go. Nadia gave up because of her bad ankle after about 90minutes and I decided to got to the cafe hut/campground and then probably turn back.

Once we’d stopped for a break though, I decided to carry on with those id walked that far with. At least for part of the hour long forest hike. As it turned out I did the whole forest walk and after a quick powwow with the now smaller group I was convinced to carry on to the bitter end. Something I knew I would pay for latter because of my bad joints.

The disappointing part is that last hour is like scrambling which I usually enjoy much more than normal steps or flat up. But after 3 ½ hours getting to that point, I just wanted to get there. Which I did. Eventually. And it really is a beautiful sight once your there. I was slightly aghast at being told people went swimming there as it is Glacier water! Good luck surviving that unscathed.

Given how late we were getting up there I was conscious of not taking too long before turning back. I think I was on my way within 15minutes, following Chu down. And as always down is a lot quicker for me and while I wasn’t as quick as Chu, I did find it more enjoyable now.

In the forest Chu and I started walking together properly and before too long we met up with Kim. We walked the next little bit together, mostly in a comfortable silence.

At the cafe we stopped long enjoy to use the bathroom and have a quick snack. Just as we were about to leave Alexandria came up having also powered it down the mountain. Because Gordon had turned back and Anna was off with the younger group, I brought Alexandria a drink a some chocolate for myself. It took over 15minutes to get served and Chu had understandably given up on me by the time I came out. Heading to the last hill on my own I soon met up with Cian and Sharon. We walked for awhile together. Making it up and around the small ledge signalling the end of the ‘up’ section took awhile as Sharon and I clung to the rock face along with 3 other hikers until the winds died down.

Cian soon went on at a his much longer and more natural pace while Sharon and I took it easy. Its funny that the hardest part while we were together was the end as we took a wrong turn into the campsite-not ours- and then because the water had been melting in the morning sun, the river we had crossed earlier was now much bigger than we could make with out getting wet.

We did eventually make it back to where our bus was waiting and then had an hour or so wait for the 5 others to make it back. Having now had the same meal twice at our campground and again beef sandwiches for lunch, we were much relieved to have a different choice tonight.

Torres del Paine Wednesday 9th November 2016

Today we woke up hurting. My right knee in particular isn’t liking me which isn’t a surprise given what I put my joints though yesterday. Heading in for breakfast our two guides, Roberto and Mauri gave us a choice of what we could do today. It wasn’t much of a choice really though as it was either a 5 hr walk or a 15minute one. Hmmm.

I wasn’t keen on doing the 14km walk to the waterfall in the rain but it was that or walk to the nearby hotel and stop for a look around. Kim decided wine at 9.30 was perfectly suitable and made a start on that. A few of us decided we would start out on the walk and come back as soon as we’d had enough.

Meeting at the restraunt we were shocked and -most of us- dismayed to hear Trump had won the US election. With no wifi or even phone signal, the news came from Roberto and we hoped it was a joke. (Later we would find out it wasn’t)

Despite the road we were walking being pretty easy with gentle hills, the rain and the stress in my joints from yesterday made it feel a lot harder than it was. Still we all made it to the little cafe just 1km from the actual falls. As we approached it, the wind once again began howling and both Alexandria and myself who were currently walking together got lifted/pushed a few feet back the way we’d come. I can well understand how doors get ripped of vehicles and people off mountains or even just hills in this Patagonian weather. Especially when it can change at a snap of the fingers.
We managed the walk to the waterfall which was actually pretty good and enjoyed taking pictures of that, the rainbow created and the mountains behind. All the while clinging to the railings to keep our balance. Or when we walked further up onto open land, braced and ready to crouch if the winds got too strong.

Back at the cafe Nadia and I sat in the sun eating snacks for a few minutes before walking back to the campground. We again had every type of weather on the way back. Ice pellets, rain, sun and wind we could barley stand against.

We weren’t back at camp long before everyone started drinking and that was pretty much the way the rest of the day went for most. Alcohol, snacks and more alcohol. Only breaking up after Jen made mulled wine over a fire and we made for an early dinner. No chicken or steak-yes!

Still most of the talk ended up being about the election now that we’d had the results confirmed and all I can imagine is how disillusioning it must be for Obama to hand over such a powerful nation to Trump.

No wonder we were drinking.

Torres del Paine, Chile to El Calafate, Argentina Thursday 10th November

Having woken to high winds and rain, I wasn’t surprised when Nadia pointed out the new layer of snow covering the mountains. It wasn’t clear enough to be a pretty picture but for our last morning it was at least nice to see them.

After being extremely quick and successful at taking down our tent (and questioning the how of it) Nadia and I helped Kim and the actual camper of the group, Dennis, take there’s down efficiently. And to think only two days ago they were criticising how we put ours up!

We were feeling pretty good about being on time and good to go, at least until our transport was over an hour late. Luckily to compensate this though, the bus had a trailer on the back (last time the luggage ended up stacked precariously stacked at the back of he bus) and heating on board. Best of all, this bus was taking us all the way across the border!

The only thing that could dampen our day was the strikes going on at the border but Toucan had a sly way bluffing our way through which actually worked out. With all our land based border crossings now complete, I cant say any of them have been bad the way we were warned. Maybe we just got lucky though.

Most of us tried to get some sleep on the bus journey as after 3 nights camping we were all pretty tired. I managed to get a little in between reading but every so often the wind would get a hold of the bus and you would feel it veer slightly off road before the driver regained control.

Apparently one bus had already gone onto its side today.

At the same lovely hotel as before, the one with warm rooms and heated floors ( excitement!!!!) we caught up with Isabella who is still waiting with Rosita. We had small bits of news trickle through at the campsite so we knew its pretty serious and that they’ve had to fly in specialists as its a computer problem. There was even talk of having to get her loaded up on a truck and cross the border to go to Puerta Arenas where there’s a German Mercedes Benz specialist but chatting with Isabella we found out that it would take at least 6 months to get paperwork for Rosita to cross in her current state. And that’s not including that it would be a German truck on an Argentine trailer, going into Chile. Not something the paperwork even has a category for.

As it stands the specialists agreed to come to Rosita but were last heard to be stuck at the border as the strikes continue. And Martin, Isabella’s boss is driving ‘Jack’ their only spare truck in South America, the 6,0000km from Cusco. Nobodies partically happy right now. Least of all Toucan who have back to back tours in Patagonia until April. And Rosita is one of the trucks in better condition. Mechanically at least.

Anyway having caught up and checked in we enjoyed hot showers and finished the little rum we had left. I should mention we only had one bottle between the 2 of us for the past 3 days and a third of it went into the mulled wine.

Next up was a couple hours shopping before ending up at a restraunt Matt and Nikki recommended. As it turned out they were still there so we enjoyed a bit of conversation while sharing some white sangria and huge lamb burgers.

Never far from my mind now is that its not long now until home time. Back to reality and all that.

El Calafate to Ushuaia, Friday 11th November 2016

(Ushuaia= you-sh-rye-uh)

This morning we got a nice lay in as we were catching flights down to Ushuaia- aka the end of the world.

Ushuaia is the southernmost city in the world and well known as a starting point for trips to Antarctica. In fact a handful of people in our group are actually ending there tours here to continue south.

Having a lazy breakfast we then packed up and checked out. Storing my luggage at the hotel I went for a walk in town. Chu had the same idea so we joined up before heading back to catch our flight.

The flight was easy and we landed at the small airport next to the water with ease. If a little late. Our group was actually split between two flights meant to be 30minutes apart but we landed together which actually made it easier.

We checked in and were soon meeting for our walk around. I have to say these little walks haven’t proven very interesting this trip and as usual im antsy to get doing something my own pace especially after being stuck on a plane the last few hours.
Kim has again looked up a restraunt on TripAdvisor, this time specialising in King Crab, which seems to be the thing here. Im not a seafood person at all but Nadia and Chu are on board so we join Dennis and find it just before it opens. There’s already a couple of different parties waiting and when inside we pick the window table. From here we’re also closest to the king crabs in a tank at the front. Ordering a couple of bottles of wine its soon decided that Dennis and Kim want the whole King crabs that are priced by weight. Im eating the veggie dish of pasta with a side of fries. A real classic!

The king crab is selected out of the tank and I try not to cringe too much. I know im a hypocrite for this since I refuse to become a vegetarian but I cant help it. I do not want to see my food alive before i eat it and as much as these creatures creep me out I hate knowing their boiled alive. Still at least im not the one eating it.

Once the food arrives a couple of hours of hilarity ensue. Dennis is unsure of how to efficiently eat the crab and we’re all in awe of Kim’s ease with it. He know which parts of the body are safe to eat and after much time spent not reaping suffient rewards, Dennis begins to follow Kim’s example.

In the meantime a guy in a Beaver costume has arrived outside the restraunt and we all have to go take pictures because...well. Just because. And while I’ve been leaning towards dessert elsewhere i soon change my tune on seeing some arrive at a table nearby.

Around the same time Dennis decides has having another crab. We try to talk him out of this -its an expensive option after all- but now he’s gotten the hang of dissecting the crabs, there’s no stopping him.

And so we watch astounded as Dennis manages another crab, mostly by himself but with some help from Kim. I figure given Kims efficiency with the first, they’ve probably eaten near equal amounts with Dennis just edging it.
Nadia, Chu and I all eat dessert while watching this and while I had ordered the cake we saw at the other table, what I got was something else entirely- calafate ice cream with sauce and calafate berries.

Well id already had calafate liquor while camping, curtesy of Dennis and Kim. But it has a nice taste and its said that if you have a calafate berry, you will return.

Once we all finished eating we agreed we needed to find a supermarket as we’d been told we would need lunch for tomorrow and we’re all mostly out of snacks. Moving slowly as not to lose Dennis- im quite impressed he could move after all hed eaten- we searched for a supermarket but couldn’t find a suffient one. Heading home we didn’t much care anymore.

Ushuaia, Saturday 12th November 2016

This morning we were being picked up at 9am to head to Tierra del Fuego Nacional Parque. We all had different plans for today, some doing activities in the afternoon after the hike and others doing the ‘end of the world’ train ride beforehand. For myself I was just doing the hike and then seeing how my knee felt as to weather id stay on and do the additional walk. Typically this was the first day my leg felt pretty normal since the Torres del Paine towers hike. Though I am constantly having to tell myself not to cross my legs as my joints hate me right now.

Anyway there was a large group of us beginning the hike together and I figured Chu and I would likely stick together as we had similar plans. This was true for awhile but with it being a predicted 4hr hike (we did it in about 3) we were all soon strung out along this coastal walk.

We enjoyed a nice break on a beach snacking on whatever we had. Jen had predicted that the Kestrels are so used to humans in these areas that they will come right to your feet looking for food. She wasn’t wrong and we spent quite a bit of time with first Chu feeding one and then Dennis trying to get it to eat from his hand before heading on.

I spent a fair bit of time walking with Cian which was nice and some by myself. Luckily in my own on the more difficult up bit. This wasn’t partically tricky but by now my knee was making its displeasure known and I knew I should probably call it quits on making the first pick up point. After all im back to work in a few days and will need to be able to run around all day then.

Once at the cafe marking the end of this hike, we took in the views and I ate the croissant that id snitched from breakfast. Then I had a wander around the interesting little displays depicting the history of the area and the Yamana people who were arguably made extinct by Europeans bringing diseases to their shores and trying to ‘civilise’ them.

Both Chu and I caught the earliest bus back and then parted ways. After days off us all being together all the time I was looking forward to a couple of hours to myself. So sociable I know.

Leaving the hotel a short time later I made my way down the main street to do some shopping in the souvenir stores. I know. Sad. Not long into my stroll I saw horses coming down the main street. Having already seen 2 riders on the main street when I visited the information centre for an end of the world stamp, I now saw dozens of horses forming a sort of parade, along with what appeared to be a couple of military or police horses.

I never did find out what this event was in aid of. Apparently their was a gaucho tournament a day or two beforehand but I’ve no idea if this was related or something else entirely. All I know is it seemed to be a community thing. And what a sight. Rarely have I felt the urge to just jump on a horse and go as much as this sight made me feel.

...okay so maybe that’s not an unfamiliar urge for me but im much more cautious these days as an adult and not riding much. But as I watched these horses come prancing down the street with riders of all ages and gender casually sitting on their backs unconcerned with much of anything I feel an amazing envy for their abilities.

Maybe not everyone would recognise the precision in some of the horses movements as they stride beautifully along. Or the ease in which the riders flow with the movements of the more excited horses. The small commands given to horses with no more than a leather type headcollor with a leather bit and nothing else to it. Children riding big horses amongst the adults on horses we would never think to allow them on without a rein back home. Babies held in front of fathers/grandfathers as the horses trot down the road and even a foal following along with no fear at the cars, blaring music (curtesy of a queued truck) or the people stopping all along as the procession passes them.

No not everyone would recognise the beauty in every small movement of both the riders and the horses. But I do and I soak it all in. I grew up around horses. They were my life for the first 15years of my life and while I may no longer be in that life, they will always be my own private love affair and I know what this seemingly easy tableau takes. It takes spirited horses that are intelligent enough to follow commands without loosing themselves and their spirit. It takes natural born horsemanship. It takes partnership and it takes it being a part of who you are.

Once the 40 or so odd horses pass I continue on, pondering what the parade was about. Eventually I visit the supermarket to grab a snack them make for the waterfront. Once down here I planned on walking back towards town a ways before heading back to a couple of shops to buy bits id seen. Id also told Dennis who had a full day that id buy him a tshirt hed seen incase he didn’t have time once he was back.

However after watching a rider come speeding past on his horse and not long after one go the other way, i realised that a great many of them were now concentrated a little further outside of town. Walking down i spent maybe 20 minutes watching them as they mingled with friends and family and other locales that happened to be passing by. I’ve still jo idea what this gathering was about and as i watched another tourist wade in with his camera i wished i felt confident enough to do so. Even more i wished i spoke the language so i could find out what it was about. As it was i stood and watched as different people were interviewed by what i presumed to be a local news crew.

One guy was putting one of the finest horses though its paces. A lovely horse- not so sure about him. Then i wandered closer and watched a girl of no more than 4/5 moving about on this 15+hh dappled grey without stirrups, just riding as if she were born in the saddle. Then across the road splitting this green from a playground, a young recruit was putting his horse through its paces. First getting him to lift his legs and then adjusting his course at just the slightest noise or movement from his rider. Then moving at speed and turning on a dime in a cloud of dust. To be fair watching the horse and rider i think its most likely that they’re both being put through there paces. Either its a new pairing or the riders new, would be my guess.

Heading back into town i stopped at a few shops and bought a tshirt Dennos had wanted as hed been unsure if he’d have time for shopping. I also ran into Chu and i told him i was returning to the hotel to see if Nadi had gotten my note and wanted to do dinner. With the group again splitting the next day, there was a group meal organised 10pm but for those of us not out on activity’s we didn’t really want to wait until then. Chu and i agreed to meet in the reception in a little while and i soon found Nadi waiting for me so we spent the intervening minutes catching up on our days.

Looking for a restraunt we actually ran into Dennis and Kim. I swear they told me they were on the 4 hour boat trip but apparently not. Kim being Kim had somewhere lined up for dinner, this time a Chinese buffet. Deciding to check the place out we went and had a look at them setting up. They weren’t opening for almost another hour (dinner over here isn’t usually until 10pm for locals 8pm for tourists) so Dennis, Chu, Nadi and i went back to the hotel to show Dennis his t-shirts. Kim electing to stay and start trying the drinks!

Heading back to the restraunt a short time later we did a little more shopping. Kim has a habit of disappearing off without explanation and then just reappearing. He’d done this the previous evening at he restraunt so we laughed and joked about turnabout being fair play. Time got a away from us a little though and by the time we got back to the restraunt Kim had already finished half a plate.

We spent the next hour or two gorging ourselves on far too much food. But for a buffet it was really good and not really a Chinese one as they had a bit of everything.
After dinner we decided to stagger down to the ice-cream shop and have another treat. Man its the first time I’ve had proper ice cream here and the guys are right that its really good.

By the time we did this none of us really felt like joining the group but Nadi told me i was going. In turn i told the boys they were. And while i kept a close eye on them as we made to the restraunt, Kim made an exit as soon as my back was turned! We stayed long enough for a drink and to have a quick catch up and we were surprised-pleasantly so- to see Lynnette here. She’d bumped into Jen earlier in the day and agreed to come for the meal when asked. It was really nice to catch up.

Ushuaia to Buenos Aires, Sunday 13th November 2016

Today i said goodbye to my roommate- and more importantly, camping buddy- Nadia as she had arranged to spend another couple of days in Ushuaia to do everything she wanted here. We also said goodbye to a few more members of the group who were staying, 3 of whom were headed to Antarctica!

Catching our flight in the early afternoon -an hour late- we made the relatively short flight without too many problems. Along the way Jen made arrangements for is to go to a Tango Show that evening, being the last night of the tour and all. There was some debate about doing this as it consists of a meal, all you can drink alcohol, a tango show and- the cause for some concern- a tango lesson.

With our flight being late we didn’t do more than a quick dumping of our bags and a freshen up before dividing into taxis to go to the show. I wont lie. I did kind of hope to miss the lesson and im pretty sure i wasn’t alone in that!

Once at the venue we soon realised that they rotate the tables out for their lessons between our meals. So no skipping it for any of us! Making a good start on the free alcohol we ordered our meals and chattered amongst ourselves. As soon as we’d finished eating we were ushered into a separate room for our lesson. I may have downed my 3rd glass of red wine immediately before this. Some might not think this smart given that we’d only been there about an hour and im a complete lightweight....but desperate times and all that!

For our lesson it was our group-minus Jen who made a speedy exit- and 3 others from brazil. We were in an L shaped room with the guys one end and the girls the other. Our instructor was in the middle as he walked us through a simple couple of steps. I hid at the back but still managed to get knocked about as we all struggled to remember the steps.

Once we had -kind of- mastered that on our own he added music, choosing Cleaner to demonstrate it with. Told to pair up i was soon trying to go through the motions with Chu. It was actually quite funny as those around us had started pairing up and suddenly Chu was in front of me as i think like me he had hoped we’d be stumbling our way through it together.

When it was time to switch partners i ended up with Dennis who had been really excited to do a tango lesson. As it was though he hadn’t really understood the instructor so we did a very fumbling type of waltz all around the room. It was quite amusing but im just glad that with my lack of coordination and balance, we didn’t go over! I actually did alright with the steps because i knew when i should be going where-well if you ignore the lack of rhythm with the music- but I’ve never attempted a waltz in my life until this moment and the steps were- and remain- a mystery.

Next up we had to master the ‘photo pose’ meaning how to end the dance with a classic tango flare. For us girls that meant our leg up and hooked behind our leads legs, and then both of us snapping our heads around together for a steamy stare. All throughout, the guy is meant to lead and we should always take their lead on when and where we’re going.

After getting us girls to practice the steps followed by the end stance, our instructor then picked another girl to demonstrate the whole thing with. Apparently hiding at the back of the room doesn’t work when you seem the best balanced of the lot.

Crazy for me i know but i blame the wine!

After quite a few ‘no, no, noooos’ as well as trying to go the opposite way from his tugging at me, i was soon up in front of the group trying to tell myself ‘its one move. You got this.’ Of course i tuned back into what he was saying only to catch that we would be doing the whole of the steps we’d learnt first. I have to say this was the first time id really been ‘led’ in this lesson (at least in tango) and you can really feel the difference. Soon we had done the moves a few times and the only saving grace was i didn’t have to look at the group at all. Firstly i was looking at my partner and then when we did the pose i aimed my gaze to the ground. Thank god id straightened my hair so i could hide behind it! I did think i was about to kill us both when he demonstrated the exact position by moving me about. As in hitching my leg a good 5 inches higher, asking me to point my toes and balance like that...

Again thank god for the wine!

As we broke apart Matt joked that he’d send me a picture of that. I laughed not realising until latter that he actually did manage to get a couple of pics!

Given the stress of the last 5 minutes i thought to hide and not take part as couples did the whole routine but Cian soon sought me out saying i now to knew what to do.

We spent the next little bit running through the moves and i have to say when we remembered the steps, we did pretty good. Id say we were one of the better couples and with Cian being so tall-and confident- it meant he really did lead me about.

Finishing up with Chu i have to say i actually did enjoy the whole experience. The wine definitely helped but both Cian and i would later say that we would consider doing something similar on home turf. Now this is something i never would have imagine but even sober i hold to this!

Back at the table we drank more alcohol and ate our puddings while watching the show. I have to say I’ve always loved to watch dancing and seeing how easy these guys make it look, is astonishing.

Especially having just struggled with the easiest of steps.

Once the show was over we all started to head out. Transport was provided by the venue and we were soon on a coach drinking our smuggled out wine via the bottle.

Back ay the hotel we all gathered in the lobby and proceeded to drink and by now most were either full on drunk or very merry. Cian and i continued to practice the tango as he wanted to get it perfect.

Some of us tried Matt and Nicki’s cigars that they had gotten on their travels and Gearoid switched a normal framed picture in the lounge withhis tango lesson certificate.

The decision was then made to head to a bar for a final drink.

By now it was almost 1am and i decided to pass. I was tempted to go and latter regretted that i didn’t but with much of the group staying out to 4am the previous evening i knew their 1 drink wouldn’t be just one drink. Wanting to get up to see some of the city before flying home the the next morning would mean getting my drunken self back to the hotel from an unknown place in Buenos Aires in the middle of the night. On my own.

Still my staying behind did mean that a Brazilian staying at the hotel with his family for a few days then came up to me and we chatted awhile once everyone had left. Its always good to meet other travellers of all types.