Well our first impressions of UB didn't improve, we were ripped off by our taxi driver and the guesthouse Emmett had booked was in a shanty town on top of a hill. In his defense it was the top pick in the old LP, unfortunately, we later found out, it doesn't even make an appearance in the new one. The place is now full of travelers seemingly competing for the title of dirtiest person. One of these hardcore travelers has even had cards made up with the title "adventurer". Hmmm.

Things took a further slide when picking up train tickets. It seems we hadn't been booked to Irkutsk as we thought, only halfway to Ulan Ude. No problems, we can fix it right? Nope, due to Naadam festival international train ticket office was closed for 5 days! An issue to deal with on another day, UB to explore.

As I mentioned this is far from a pretty city, but is pleasant none the less with very friendly people. Business is booming and new buildings are going up everywhere. That said no fancy cars in sight. To make up for this they do have left hand and right hand drive cars, whatever takes your fancy.

We took in the biggest Monastery, Khalid, with its huge Golden Budha and an old Chinese temple. The town square was abuzz for Nadaam. Popular activities were dress up booths where you could have your photo taken as Ghengis Khan or maybe a famous wrestler and the range of mini motorised cars that the kids were tearing around in. They even put on fireworks for our arrival.

Our day at the main stadium for Nadaam was great, people everywhere, many in the traditional Mongolian get up. They love their wrestling over here. The men are absolute mountains wearing only speedo type bottoms and some sleeves on their arms. Some battles went for seconds others over 30 minutes. Best bit is after they win they run about and do the Eagle dance, a slow motion dancing/flapping move. Terrific. From what we could tell, he with the biggest belly wins.

Over at the archery my fame became national after being stalked by the MNB (Mongolia national broadcaster) camera man. The archers were amazing, hitting small targets from miles away, without hitting any spectators, all dressed in the bright traditional coats with a variety of hats.

At the end of the day horses and jockeys who had survived the earlier horse race out of town (some didn't) were all ushered in to the stadium. Some of the jockeys were tiny, later found out they are as young as 5. Seems a little young to me, but they did look super cute in their colored silk outfits.

Another highlight in UB was the food. Don't judge me but I had no interest in partaking in traditional Mongolian food. Tough old meat in pancakes or dumplings is not my first choice. Happily there are surprisingly some great restaurants in UB, even with English menus, no Cyrillic guessing needed!! You do get to eat your meal in a cloud of smoke, just to make it a challenge. Same deal in pubs, bars, buses, the street, basically anywhere you go. The no smoking message has not yet reached Mongolia.

Our first brush with crime took place in UB too. A little weasel tried to grab my bag as we were crossing the street. Luckily I was holding the strap at the time. Turned out to be this little imp of a man with a blood nose. I figured it was from the last bag he tried to snatch as my elbow didn't make good contact.

We headed off for a ger camp for a couple of nights, essentially glorified camping. The camp was in Terelj National Park. Beautiful ride in, bar the many animal rights violations along the way. Every country has its ways, I shouldn't judge. Perhaps the goat liked traveling in the boot of a Camry amongst a family of fours baggage? Saw the famous eagles of Mongolia, didn't know birds got that big.

The camp itself was set in the most beautiful location amongst meadows, pine forests and rocky outcrops. Reminded me a little of Switzerland, with Yaks and Camels joining cows and horses. Lots of time for relaxing, walking, cards and finally breathing fresh air. Camel riding was an option but the last time I rode one of those nasty beasts, Monika by name, I almost ended up in the Nile.

Food was interesting, in an almost inedible way. Lucky i carb loaded in April, May and June. No airag (fermented mares milk) was forced on me so all up a great experience.

That has been Mongolia. A peaceful democratic country stuck between the east and the west, between development and the old ways, with a fascinating history and some serious fashion issues to address. Bound for Mother Russia next, hopefully Irkutsk but who knows at this stage. Very excited!