I'm not sure how, but happily the little house on the hill stayed upright. We headed off to hike the biggest glacier outside the poles all kitted up with crampons and an ice pick. We got to the bottom of the glacier, I looked up and had a little internal panic, it was super steep. I'm not a huge fan of mountains as it is, ice covered ones seem a bit silly. 4 hours later we were almost at the top of the glacier by the ice fall and it was actually pretty cool. Saw some crevices (but importantly didn't fall into any), glacier rivers and other bits and pieces. Who knew there was so much to glaciers? Turns out the glacier covers a volcano. One of the many in the area that are still very active. The locals are just waiting for the next big eruption. They speak so casually about it. Makes me kind of nervous on their behalf.

An hour away on the other side of the glacier is Glacier Bay. An incredibly deep lake where icebergs calve off the glacier. We took a boat ride through it, as stunning as it was cold. Beautiful glaciers, all shapes and sizes, varying shades of white through blue with the occasional seal hanging about. A few movies have scenes here, Bonds die another day and Batman Begins are 2 I know of.

Yet another lovely drive had us spending the night in Vik, a typically small village (a village with over 100 people was unusual, again we wondered what on earth these people do with themselves?). Most importantly this town provided us with some delicious pizza. Now I know one should try and eat foods traditional to the country but in this case i drew the line. Icelandic delicacies include singed sheep head (with eyeball), putrified (rotten) shark, whale, puffin and pickled rams testicles. They are also known for their lamb, which was delicious but hard to eat when your constantly driving past the poor little b*****s cowering in the wind, rain and snow.

The next morning in Vik we checked out the black sand beaches and the basalt column cliffs. The plan was to head back to Reykjavik for 5pm whale watching, a quick phone call changed that plan, the weather was coming in again could we make the 1pm? We were 2 hours away and it was 11am but we gave it a try. We were doing super well and then technology intervened. I'm sure many relationships have fallen victim to GPS's. We almost became a statistic. Profanities and a sprint later we were on the boat. Even dressed in doona like jumpsuits the cold was insane. We did see a minke whale for our troubles. Once we were back on talking terms we headed north west for the Snaefellness peninsular. This is fjord territory, we went around, below and over them. Spectacular regardless of the rain.

We spent our last full day driving around the peninsular with our ever present friend, the rain. Apparently Orca's are a common sight in the fjords. They evaded us but some slightly morbid soul had placed a hand written "dead whale" sign by the side of the road. Not sure a dead whale was better than no whale.

Again the scenery was other worldly, mountains, rock formations, mosses, caves, waterfalls but no trees. The wild weather made it seem even less hospitable but still houses were scattered about. The famous Icelandic horses seem the be the main residents out there. They bred everything tough in Iceland.

Heading inland we took in the biggest, and stinkiest geothermal spring, an amazing waterfall that literally just appears out of the earth and pingvilier, where Viking government began.

Our final morning had us at the famed Blue Lagoon. It was as beautiful and relaxing as I had hoped, the water at a perfect temperature. The changing room was a little odd with signs advising you must shower (open shower) sans bathers before entering the lagoon. Needless to say I saw much more women than ever necessary.

Iceland explored; A beautiful, rugged, magical land. So much to see and do with the cost now being only slightly upsetting as opposed to pre gfc when it was tear inducing. Seeing the country in such extreme weather (to me anyway, nothing to the locals) definitely gave me a huge amount of respect for Icelanders, people who essentially live off the land. Plus I think they may all have a little crazy in them.

To Canada!