I'm in Punjab! A surprisingly small region that packs a punch as India's economic, agricultural and cultural powerhouse where a significant proportion Indian/Pakistanis in the West can trace their roots.

It's been a long gruelling day but one to remember. India's government public buses are a once in a lifetime experience. Once.

Having made my way to McLeodGanj Bus station and successfully deflected tuk-tuk drivers trying to convince me it wasn't a bus station, I ended up waiting in what is effectively a multi-storey carpark under construction for about half an hour. In this multi-storey carpark there was a suite of fancy volvo AC buses. And one dilapidated one with church pews for seats. Guess which one I got.

There were only a couple other passengers boarding but we departed into the mist coated Himalayas and down switch-back roads to Dharamshala. There we waited in the much more congested bus station and soon we were almost full. But luckily I managed to keep an entire bench to myself to rest my fat backpack.

The first bus ride was really nice, the mountain views were gorgeous as we climbed down the foothills and into the Punjabi plains. It was epic seeing the craziness of rural India, cows, Hindu temples and lots of honking! There were also a few collapsed roads thanks to the recent landslides which meant a couple tight squeezes on the narrow highways!

I had to change buses in the horrid city of Pathankot, as well as go for a much needed pee. This second bus was a bit more...interesting.

For one, on the flat roads of the Punjab, our bus driver could drive at about 20million miles an hour. It seems to me, people use the horn here to just tell people they're coming through no matter what and you better get out the way. There's no, maybe its best I slow down in case I kill someone.

Also, whilst on the first bus ride the bus would stop at the side of the road willy nilly to let people on and off, this bus stopped and started in each major city's bus station. Most Punjabi cities like Batala and Gurduspur were pretty grotty as expected. There were also tonnes of adverts for firms offering student visas in Australia and the UK as well posters of successful applicants.

For the last stretch from Batala to Amritsar I was crushed by a large Sikh grandpa up against the side of the bus. I mean crushed. Still, it was an experience bumping at 20million mph swerving between cows bikes tuk tuks motorbikes cows bikes tuk tuks etc. etc. flat against a wall thanks to the girth of an oversized sikh.

Amritsar is huge. It had yet more English wine shops, I've seen them everywhere and I have no idea why India has so many 'English Wine shops'? Surely there can't be this much English wine? Surely? I got a tuk-tuk through melee, doing a semi circle round the old city then diving in to find my hostel.

Amritsar Old City is just an old city. It's not an old and 'pretty' city which most people subconsciously associated with the words 'old city' especially when on holiday. I decided to head out to the Golden Temple sooner rather than later to see it at night. I quickly discovered Punjabis present a new kind of problem that you rarely encounter. They are too genuinely friendly. You can't actually get anywhere for people trying to strike up conversation with you. Normally this is really sweet and nice n'all. But when you're tired and hungry and just want to get somewhere before it gets dark (and further, can't see anywhere that's going to satiate your hunger when you eventually need to eat)... it gets quite annoying!

The Golden Temple really is fabulous though. Once again, being a westerner with a camera and a slightly offensive attempt at a Sikh hat (not a turban, but a thing you have to put on your head to get into Sikh temples) being at a temple where people are praying etc. did feel a bit of an imposition. But, there is no contest. The Golden Temple is the most beautiful temple I have ever seen. It is absolutely stunning.

It's the holiest site in Sikhism and is a place where Sikhs welcome people of all religions to pray. At its centre, the Golden Temple itself is home to the most important sikh scriptures. Surrounding it are beautiful white, almost colonial style buildings with their own statues of Gurus and more scriptures. On loudspeaker some sort of sermon was being played. It was packed with worshippers, no tour group in site. Sure it felt a bit awkward but I'd prefer being one of maybe 3 or 4 tourists than one of a swarm descending on a spiritual site.

I then successfully navigated the maze of Amritsar's old city at night to my hostel and realised...there wasn't anything to eat... I'd only had a nutella sandwhich and some chocolate biscuits all day. Eventually I gave in and went to a street food stall. I guess you have to try it at one point but it's difficult not to be nervous about poisoning. There were other locals there and hopefully I'm somewhat acclimatized now. The food itself was pretty basic, just momos which are basically overrated dumplings. Hopefully enough to stop my tummy rumbling all night.

Alavida!