Day 12 cont'd. We take a cycle rickshaw, with 2 people on each pulled by a man who doesn't look like he could blow up a paper bag. 15 minutes to get to the Ghats (steps down to the water) on the Ganges in Varanasi about 6.30 last night as the sun is setting. Beautiful, serene sight, such a contrast to the chaotic streets. There is something magical about this place. Get on to a rowing boat after fighting our way through the usual beggars and hawkers, on the way,...

Hi Folks internet access at last. Out in the wilds the last few days and access is really poor! First thanks for all your messages, I'm still alive and kicking and enjoying the trip despite the depravations. So here's an update: Day 3 Agra and Taj Mahal. On way in is the usual hawkers and beggars. Shanty town shops line the street. Into the main gate and high security checks. Then lovely gardens opening up into a gatehouse, huge in itself. Then there it i...