Four hours of convoluted bus journeys later, Amelia and I arrived in 'Udawalawe'. A couple we'd met in Ella had given us advice on how to get there and where to stay. Regrettably, the information on how to get there was slightly askew, but with the assistance of some helpful bus conductors we found the way. 'Superson Guesthouse' was the place they'd recommended to stop by and from Uduwalawe central bus stop we managed to get a tuk tuk to take us the 5km there for 200 rupees (£1) - bargain!
Superson Guesthouse was owned and run by an elderly Sri Lankan couple who'd essentially converted a few spare rooms in their home. We were warmly welcomed in and shown to a freshly cleaned room, it was very basic but we weren't complaining - especially as it was one of the cheapest place we'd stayed in (1500 rupees).
A safari at 'Udawalawe National Park' is the primary reason for people to stop by, and the 31,000 hectare park is generally recognised as a great place to spot herds of wild elephants away from the crowds at 'Yala National Park'. Other than the national park there's not much else to keep tourists around, and being a appealingly close to the beach I didn't feel we should stay longer than one night. Luck would have it there was another couple at Superson Guesthouse who also had a similar thirst for some 'vitamin sea' and were happy to do the safari as soon as possible.
Before we knew it the guesthouse owner had arranged for a man with a jeep to whisk us away to the national park. Under our recommendation the Dutch couple also agreed to pay the extra 100 rupees each for a 'modern' Japanese 4x4 rather than what we had before (a shoddy old Indian jeep). That way, unlike Wilpattu, we would have a less spine compressing journey and finish the safari the same height! Not that that mattered to the typically giant sized Dutch couple!
Prior to even entering the park we caught a glimpse of our first Uduwalawe elephant. In retrospect it was a scene matching that of the male elephant in the lake at Wilpattu. However, this time we were on a public road and couldn't just stop to whip out the camera!
Splitting the entrance fee for the jeep obviously made it much kinder on the wallet, but it was also nice to have some likeminded company with the added bonus of extra pairs of eyes too! The first hour or so of our four hour safari consisted of spotting herds of water buffalo, eagles (and other birds we'd seen in Wilpattu), terrepins and lizards.
From the second hour onwards the temperature cooled and the elephants came out of hiding! The first herd appeared from nowhere, quite unbelievable considering their size! Unusually, we could only see a lone female at first, but then the matriarch and the rest of her family arrived. They were protecting a young calf and unfortunately vanished as quickly as they appeared.
Male elephants aka bulls are quite often solitary, but we witnessed two bulls tolerating a close proximity by the waterside, before a nearby herd sighting was leaked over the airwaves. The park ranger told us about a small herd with two baby elephants bathing close by in another lake! His proposition of 'exchanging' the two bulls for a herd of females and two calfs was a pleasant dilemma to have, and subsequently resolved after 'Maikel' and I caught the look of our other halves faces!
The frolicking herd were quickly located, but disappointingly along with half a dozen other jeeps too. Putting aside the other jeeps (some of which didn't have quite the same respect for the animals) we relished the site of four females bathing with their two calfs - one looked no older than four weeks old. Simultaneously we saw some very daring stalks getting precariously close to a basking crocodile! I have to admit part of me wanted to witness the prehistoric reptile have a lunge at the long legged bird! Seeing the herd exiting the lake and carefully encouraging their wobbly footed youngest within ten metres of our 4x4 was a heartwarming encounter and the last we saw of them.
Our journey towards the exit crossed paths with a few more elephants, all of which were stood happily grazing on the huge amounts of vegetation to sustain their enormous body's.
The four of us returned grinning ear to ear after our memorable safari and were made even more happy to see a huge spread of home cooked Sri Lankan food (rice and curry!) awaiting us! It was a unique experience in that we (including a newly arrived Swedish couple) shared the delicous food sat around the family's dining room table!

With the sea calling we set off early and utilised another crowded public bus or two to reach the coast.