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We weren't expecting to do a great deal back in the capital, but one of the good things about travelling is that you meet people, get talking and find out what they've done. One of things that kept popping up in conversation was a place in Vientiane called COPE. So after finding some accommodation, having a quick freshen up and a bite to eat we headed straight for it.
COPE (Cooperative Orthotic and Prosthetic Enterprise) is a local rehabilitation medical centre, providing services for people with disabilities. We learnt the disturbing reason for this centre's existence...
During 1964 to 1973 the U.S. Dropped more than 260 million cluster bombs on Laos, injuring or killing more than 30,000 people and making it the most heavily bombed nation on earth! More than 580,000 bombing missions were conducted over Lao. That is one bombing mission every 8 minutes, 24 hours a day, for 9 years. The bombings were part of a U.S. Secret War in Laos to support the Royal Lao Government against the Pathet Lao (communist movement) and to interdict traffic along the Ho Chi Minh Trail (Vietnam War). The bombings destroyed many villages and displaced hundreds of thousands of Lao civilians during the nine-year period.
There are many types of cluster bomb, they all work in similar ways, scattering explosive 'submunitions' over a wide area. A large case could contain up to 680 individual cluster bombs, each with a killing radius of 30m. Approximately 30% of these bombs failed to detonate at the time, as a consequence they've caused more than 20,000 deaths or injuries since. Most of the victims being poverty stricken farmers, or children playing in the countryside. More than 17 provinces in Laos now suffer from UXO (unexploded ordnance) contamination. It is estimated that it may take up to 3000 years to clean up all unexploded ordnance in Laos.
Feeling utterly shocked we left looking for a place to sit down, quench our thirst and a bite to eat. Keeping with tradition of eating a burger in each country we were left with little choice for lunch. Amelia found a highly recommended burger place on TripAdvisor called 'Ray's Grille'. It was a small little place and full to the rafters! We waited outside in the baking heat to eventually be led to our table in the nice cool restaurant. We both ate their standard cheeseburger and chips. The beef was imported from Australia, so it wasn't chewy like most SEA beef we've had, in fact it was absolutely delicious! I could've eaten two!
After our delectable lunch we 'had to' tick another requirement off the list - a massage in each country. We looked around and decided to both go for an oil foot massage. Whilst having our feet massaged, we heard an unfamiliar sound.... rain! It was coming down extremely heavy too, and wasn't long before we experienced our first power-cut in SEA. With our feet soothed and cleaned we waited for the rain to slow before stepping out and tiptoeing back to our hotel. It was starting to get dark and from what we could see, it looked like the entire city was without power.
The night market was still open though, even with most of the stalls without lights! We looked around as much as we could before going back for dinner. Last time we were in Vientiane we discovered a good street food vendor, selling tasty pork belly and bbq'd chicken. We had the same thing again, including sticky rice and some spring rolls!
The next day we FLEW (what a luxury) to Bangkok to meet Amelia's mum and step dad Ron.
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