Knowing that alcohol and in particular spirits would be expensive in Bali, we had already planned to purchase some alcohol at duty free in KK. Chris and I picked up a bottle of vodka and rum, and Beth also bought a bottle of vodka. We double checked with the cashier that we could take 1 litre of alcohol each into Bali, and she continued to inform us that we were entitled to 2 litres each! Sensibly, we just grabbed one more bottle of vodka as we hoped that would be enough for our two week 'holiday' with Becci. Becci, Chris and Beth's older sister, was flying out to Bali to join us for two weeks, and to celebrate her 30th birthday.
Perfectly timed, our flights landed within an hour of each other into Denpasar airport in Bali. After some discussion about visas at immigration, Chris and I paid for our 30 day visa so that we would be able to extend it later on to 60 days. Otherwise, as a UK resident you are entitled to a free 30 day visa on arrival. Then came our next obstacle...customs. It actually turned out that you are only allowed 1 litre of alcohol per person, so we had to declare that we were over the limit. Luckily we had just bought 1 extra litre and not gone overboard with buying 2 litres each! As Chris and I were escorted through security and to a back room, we waved to Beth who was queued up to also have her bags scanned along with everyone else. We sat down in front of an officer and explained the situation. He had obviously heard the same story millions of times so got his calculator out to work out our fine. We had heard that the fine would be 200,000 rupiah, which is around £10. So when he worked out an amount much higher than that we were quick to 'correct' him. However, we did not yet have any cash, so asked if we could pay on card....which he continued to explain that the card machine is only used for 'larger' amounts. So as Chris scurried off to a cash machine, I sat and 'sweet talked' the officer with my poor football knowledge and local understanding of the area. When Chris returned he placed a 100,000 rupiah note on the desk and said 'okay?!?'. The officer had a little think, then said as good luck for him and as a nice gesture that it would be suitable. Of course the money went straight in his back pocket! But we walked away happy knowing we had paid just £5 as our penalty and gobsmacked that we had just bartered with a customs officer!
We didn't have to wait long before Becci walked through customs to be greeted by the three of us with open arms - huge hugs and massive smiles all around.
Being fairly late we didn't hang around and jumped in a taxi, taking us about an hour and a half East, to Padang Bai for a night stop before catching the boat over to the Gili Islands, just off of Lombok. The journey went quickly as we chatted all the way, however the last 20 minutes or so was pretty tense since the driver was swerving and breaking all over the place. We weren't sure if he was really tired, drugged up, or was struggling to see in the dark, but it was scary and nerve racking to say the least.
Luckily we arrived in one piece just after midnight and shown to our rooms at 'Topi Inn'. Basic rooms with simple en suites, and Chris and I had a few friends join us in the night - rats!

We were up early to ensure we could book onto the first fast boat over to Gili Trawangan (Gili T). We managed to quickly eat some eggs and homemade bread then walked down to the pier. We rushed unnecessarily as we waited nearly an hour before we actually boarded the boat. Then it was an hour and a half over to Gili T.
Knowing it was entering high season, we had pre-booked all our accommodation for the next two weeks, and also it meant we wouldn't have to faff around whilst Becci was with us on holiday. 'Smile' Homestay was easy to find, located down a walkway from the main track along the beachfront. We were shown to one room, as the other was being cleaned, which took us all by surprise at how nice it seemed. We didn’t hang around, and quickly sorted our bags for the beach and off we went.
We strolled along the beachfront pathway, taking in the beautiful surroundings. Gili T is the largest of the Gili Islands, with a permanent population of around 800. Despite being well developed, with plenty of options for accommodation, eating, drinking, and activities, the vibe was still very chilled and relaxed . We made it half way around the island before deciding it was time to stop for some food.
As we worked our way around the island, the north and west side became less developed and more upmarket. However we did manage to find a quirky beach front bar serving reasonably priced fried rice, and offering coconut shakes as a BOGOF. Not our usual coconut shake though, as this was made with coconut water and strawberry syrup – but still very refreshing and delicious. We plonked ourselves under a stilted open beach hut, sat on some cushions, and soaked up the idyllic surroundings; clear blue sky, inviting aqua sea, soft white sand, and the sound of chilled out music in the background. We demolished the fried rice and coconut shakes and carried on walking around the island.
Having been out for around three hours, when we returned to pick up the key for our other room, the receptionist was wondering where we had been as he had been searching for us. Confused, and not sure why it was a problem that we had gone out for the afternoon, it soon became clear when he said he had made a mistake and checked us into the wrong rooms. Sensing that
something had not been right earlier when we were shown to the room, we didn’t argue, collected our bags and moved a bit further inland to the homestay. We weren’t disappointed though, as these rooms were also nice, very spacious, with a small veranda looking into a garden area.
Being our first evening on the island it was only right to watch the sun go down. Earlier on during our walk we had passed by a ‘picnic’ area on
the sunset side, so we poured some vodka into a plastic bottle, picked up some coke, ginger ale, and plastic cups en route to the decking area. We arrived with plenty of time to set the GoPro on a time lapse, enjoying a few drinks, and have a good catch up with Becci. The sunset was incredible, an array of oranges, reds, pinks, purples and blues, with the perfect amount of cloud in the sky.
As we meandered back in the dark along the sandy pathway, we stumbled across the night market. Bustling with tourists tucking into plates piled high with local food, and the smell of coals burning. The fresh fish caught our eye and we opted for a large red snapper, which was bbq’d and served with rice and vegetables – a perfect island dinner. Becci and Beth both having more of a sweet tooth than me couldn’t resist an overwhelming display of cakes in all different colours, shapes and sizes. At 5,000 rupiah each, around £0.25, it was near to impossible for them to choose just one! 

One of my favourite things to do is to eat breakfast on the beach, and when breakfast is pancakes, it is made even better! What a great start to the day!
Something we have all wanted to try is paddle boarding, so first on our agenda was to hire some boards. We found a friendly local guy who was happy to offer us a good price for four paddle boards for an hour trial. He selected the right sized boards for us, adjusted the paddle to the correct height and waved us on our way. He advised we start on our knees, then stand up as we feel confident. But it wasn’t before long that we thought it was worth trying, as the worst that will happen is falling in the water. A few wobbles, but all still dry, we carefully paddled further out to sea. Of course it was me that was the first to fall in as I turned around to smile for a photo! But finding it much easier than we all anticipated, and all being competitive
people, Chris initiated a race. Chris continued to win the race, but whilst showing off his efforts amusingly fell off his board and splashed into the sea. The sea was like glass – from the paddle board we could see the coral beneath us. It was unquestionably beautiful.
Having given our arms and legs a good work out, we wandered along the beachfront in search of somewhere for lunch. Reasonably priced local food is always a good option, and with tables overlooking the beach it was a win win. We all chose chicken satay and an iced coffee. Then with our tummy’s full, it was time to find a spot on the beach and chill out.
Chris and I were finding it hard to resist the sea, especially seeing loads of people snorkelling, and knowing that the Gili islands are renowned for numerous turtles. So we picked up our snorkels and walked 100 metres or so up the beach, so that we could drift back down to where we were based. Within minutes we spotted a turtle, and soon after saw another two. They were not afraid for us to swim close by and take some video on the GoPro, allowing us to take some awesome footage. We noticed there were two different types of turtles swimming around, the hawksbill turtle and the green turtle. The hawksbill turtle is known for its ‘typical tortoise shell’, and has a distinguishing face which funnily enough looks similar to a hawksbill. For me, green turtles are much prettier as they have a more curved face.
The visibility was incredible with such a vast number of different fish species. Even the coral was beautiful, making the overall snorkelling fantastic. To top it all off, as we headed back to the shore, we spotted a sea crate. We watched it for ages as it slowly dug itself a hole and
disappeared down it.
With sunset last night being so enjoyable, we decided to return to the same spot, however we underestimated the distance and time it would take for us to walk there, so arrived just as the sun disappeared below the horizon. It didn’t stop us having a few beverages and munching on some peanuts as we watched the sky turn magical.
We returned to the night market, choosing a 2kg tuna to share, again served with rice and veggies. None of us could resist the dessert table so selected a good mix, from pure chocolate balls, to banana cake. 

We awoke to a veranda decorated with balloons and cards. It could only mean one thing, it was Chris’ birthday. After enjoying a very tasty omelette and fruit shake on the beach for breakfast, we hired a couple of kayaks for the day from the paddle board man. Our plan was to kayak around the island (7km to walk so nearing 10km to kayak). We set off, but it wasn’t long before we decided to ‘anchor’ up and do some snorkelling. The water was just so inviting and being able to see the clarity from the kayak was making it impossible to resist. Becci and Beth had rented snorkels for the day and we were keen to find a turtle for Becci to see as she had never seen one snorkelling before. We searched around and eventually spotted a hawksbill.
As elegantly as possible, we climbed back into the kayaks and paddled on. We didn’t move much further before Becci and Beth shouted over to us that they had just had a turtle swim under their kayak. So we stopped paddling and kept our eyes peeled. But we didn’t have to look very hard as the water was like glass and the turtles were huge. Becci was first to clamber in and swim alongside the magnificent creatures, then Beth and I followed. It always surprises me how fast turtles can swim as this one gave myself and Beth a good workout trying to catch him up!
We tried to stop for an iced coffee, but the staff were very unhelpful and it seemed as though they plucked a ridiculous price for the iced coffee from thin air, so we decided to carry on and find the beach hut we had eaten at for lunch the other day. However it seemed to be much further than we had thought and by now our arms and shoulders were massively tiring. To add to the equation, we had reached the side of the island where some big waves were coming in. Taking us by surprise, we were submerged by several waves. Luckily our valuables were in dry bags, and thankfully we had attached the bags, along with our snorkels and flip-flops to some rope on the kayak, so they were not swept away! We had to paddle far out to sea to reach where the waves were starting, and not breaking. But soon the restaurant was in site, so we used the waves to our advantage and rode them into shore.
We sat back under a stilted hut on some comfy cushions, and eagerly awaited some food. We all tucked into some fried rice with tuna, which barely touched the sides! It was only right for Chris and I to have a birthday beer at the beach, giving us some ‘extra’ energy for the remainder of the trip.
Although we would have all loved to of stayed at the beachfront for longer, we knew that the tide was going out, so we had to get moving. With our previous kayaking experience, Chris and I manoeuvred our way around the rocks and coral poking out above the water, whereas Becci and Beth managed to get themselves beached! We powered on determined to make it back to our starting point as soon as possible.
It was now late afternoon and having been very physically active all day, our muscles were tired and achy, and since it was Chris’ birthday it seemed only right to treat ourselves to a massage. We all opted for the Balinese full body massage, and found a lovely spot right on the beachfront to enjoy the hour. I think we all drifted off at some point. The massage was the perfect combination of relaxing and deep tissue – with certain pressures, especially on our legs, feeling quite sore! It was definitely one of the best massages we have had on our travels.
For dinner we ended up back at the restaurant we ate chicken satay at the other lunch time. Unfortunately it was a bit of a disaster meal. The organisation in the restaurant was non-existent, the food was very average, and there was no point in asking for anything outside of your order as it never arrived. The only plus side was that we were able to start our pre-drinks as we sneakily poured vodka into our glasses of coke. We carried on the pre-drinks back at the huts outside our rooms.
Understanding that Gili T is known as the ‘party’ island, we left our place just after 11pm in search of the ‘party’. We stumbled across some live music in one of the main bars so bought a beer and enjoyed the music. But not for long, as when midnight struck, the music stopped. It seemed that due to Ramadan the ‘party’ ended early. So it was a slow stroll back to the room to bed. 

Feeling a little groggy from last night, we gradually made our way to the beachfront and tucked into a much needed, tasty omelette and fruit shake.
After we let our breakfast digest, Chris and I picked up our snorkels, walked a couple of hundred metres along the beach and headed into the sea. We knew a swim in the refreshing sea would help us feel better, and swimming with the turtles again helped even more! One turtle was so calm and chilled out that a girl was even touching his shell. This is not really something you should do, so we just took some close up video and pictures and enjoyed observing the fascinating animal.
We were also lucky enough to see a couple of hawksbills interacting with each other. It wasn’t clear if they were being friendly or one was warning the other off, but it was amazing to see.
Feeling revitalized and ready for the day, we all went for a quick bite to eat, before myself, Becci and Beth headed off for a silver jewellery making class.
Underestimating the task in hand, I was definitely not prepared. There was a lack of explanation and help, two things my brain was in need of feeling a little foggy! The two men running the show said maybe we should have a look in the shop for some inspiration and ideas. We probably spent about 10-15 minutes wandering around the shop, in which time Becci and Beth decided what they would make, whereas I was not much better off.
Back in the workshop, Becci and Beth got to work on melting and rolling out their silver. Meanwhile I decided I would make a ring and engrave a turtle onto it. So I was instructed to draw my turtle and try to engrave it on a piece of already prepared silver. Easier said than done! For one, drawing a very small turtle was actually very hard, and much to everyone’s amusement, I was struggling!
My next challenge was the engraving, and even with some help from one the guys, after attempt number two, it was time to re-think. During this time, Beth had pretty much finished her ring, and Becci was well on her way with hers. Beth made a very chic ‘bashed in’ ring, and Becci made a very awesome and professional looking turtle ring – both rings I would have happily paid for and I was very jealous of their skills.
In the end, one of the guys ended up making my ring for me! I did draw the turtle, but then he cut out the silver, welded it onto a ring, and fitted it to my finger. I got to wash it, do some sanding, then he finished it off by polishing it to make it nice and shiny and give it a finished look. I can’t say I was proud of it, but it is a great souvenir and will forever remind me of my time on Gili T!
Chris’ face said it all when he saw what we had all made! Let’s just say mine was not his favourite!
We made our way over to the sunset side of the island, but unfortunately sunset was not as spectacular as before. Then we stopped off for dinner on our way back. It was a disappointing dinner for everyone, except for me, who happened to order tuna steak, slightly on the dry side, but the best of the bunch. So it was a stop at the night food market for dessert en route to the room.

Sunsets are always the best way to end a day, but for me, despite the difficulty waking up early, watching the sunrise is even better. Such a peaceful time of day and a chance to see the locals going about their daily routines.
As a treat, after sunrise, and a more normal time of morning, we bought flavoured coffees from a highly rated cafe; Chris' coconut late was the favourite. Then we enjoyed our breakfast on the beach again before hiring paddle boards for a couple of hours.
We looked like pros going out to sea! But it was a little choppy so it wasn't before long that we started to wobble on our feet. But we soon got the hang of how to tackle the waves. Chris even challenged himself by surfing the waves on the paddle board.
Another race, another win for Chris! And we all tried various yoga poses whilst on the boards, even with the waves. The current was also very strong, making it tougher on our arms to move any distance.
Whilst out on the boards we caught sight of a man and his daughter following a turtle. So we paddled over to take a look. With the water being like glass we didn't need to look hard. It kept swimming up for air allowing us to see every detail of him. Then a short while later we spotted one sunbathing at the surface. I was lucky enough to paddle really close before he caught sight of me and shot away.
We had been recommended a restaurant for lunch and noticed that every time we passed by it was bustling. We hired bicycles and cycled along the beachfront to 'Kayu Cafe'. Luckily enough a table became free overlooking the beach so we quickly snapped it up. The menu was incredible, full of healthy super foods and energising smoothies. Beth ordered a date smoothie which was like drinking sticky toffee pudding! Becci and I had a 'green' smoothie packed full of goodness. The food was also delicious; colourful, healthy, flavoursome. We left feeling very satisfied but glad we decided to visit on our last day as it was definitely on the pricey side!
We carried on cycling further around the island to reach the sunset beach. We spent the afternoon relaxing before climbing to a hill top to watch our final sunset on Gili T.
Richard (Becci, Chris and Beth's dad) had given us some birthday money to enjoy a special combined birthday meal. We decided to use the money towards an Indonesian cooking class which would combine an experience but also a meal.
Arriving at 'Sweet and Spicy' just before 8pm, there was no hanging around and we got stuck in with our first dish of the night - dessert, weirdly enough! 'Kelepon' are small balls made from rice flour and lots of coconut. The dough feels like play dough and also smelt like it! Then it gets rolled in freshly grated coconut and boiled for a few minutes.
Next up was a favourite of mine, Becci and Beth's - peanut sauce, 'Bumbu Kacang'. Which we were given some tofu and tempe to fry off until golden brown and dip into the peanut sauce (or scoop up the sauce!). After demolishing the appetiser, some of the peanut sauce was combined with vegetables to make 'Gado Gado'.
'Ayam Taliwang', aka chicken in a thick chilli coconut sauce was next up. Chris got to play with fire as he fried up the chicken. Then it was onto 'Pepes Ikan' aka fish in banana leaf. We created a yellow sauce, which was a concoction of flavours, and fried it with tomatoes, basil leaves and mahi-mahi, then wrapped it in a banana leaf, secured in place with cocktail sticks, then steamed.
Our final dish was 'Mie Goreng', aka fried noodles. We chopped up various vegetables, fried them all up, then chucked in some fresh egg noodles. It is safe to say we were well and truly stuffed! Although Becci and Beth managed to polish off all of their Kelepon, Chris and I couldn't quite finish ours so took the remainder with us. It was a lot of fun and great to have an insight into traditional and favourite Indonesian dishes. Taking a class at the beginning of our trip also gives us more knowledge for what to order for the remainder of our time in Indonesia.

An early final breakfast on the beach on Gili T before waving, or for Chris, who had developed a rapport with the guesthouse receptionist, said goodbye with an unusual handshake and hug and chest bump, before walking to the pier to catch a boat over to Gili Aer...