We made a bit of a fool of ourselves on our first full day in Fiji, wanting to actually save some money by cooking for ourselves and not frittering what little we had left away at the restaurant. Having bought some cans of food while shopping in Sigatoka earlier in the day, we were slightly annoyed upon returning to the room to find that neither of us had thought to buy any matches with which to light the gas hob. While Eloise pottered around preparing everything...

Arriving in Fiji with Eloise in 2002, I was really hoping that nothing would have changed since my last visit. My main memory of getting off the plane at Nadi International Airport had been of stepping out the other side of the customs hall and immediately thinking that I had somehow gone back in time to the seventies - wherever I had looked, I had seen women sporting the most ridiculous, perfectly spherical microphone haircuts. Obviously, this had been something...