Given that we arrived in Dijon on a whim - we were testing the satnav and Dijon was vaguely in the right direction, it was wonderful. Never realised it was the seat of the Dukes of Burgundy and amazingly old. So we spent a large part of the day wandering around the ancient alleys and houses of Dijon, following the mark of the owl. The Ducal palace had free access, so we went in there to enjoy the air conditioning only to be blown away by the stunning cenotaphs to two of the early dukes and to stroll through the not insubstantial city art collection.

After freshening up, we returned to the Place de la liberation for dinner. Somehow we managed to misinterpret protocol, and instead of a glass of wine, ended up with a bottle. Of Chardonnay (which they called something much more exotic). And tiny, although very tasty portions of fish for dinner. And a large bill. But it was a very atmospheric place, with water features splashing through colourful lights, children playing and laughing, the darkening twilight providing a backdrop to the floodlit palace hidden in the middle of the maze of streets in the old quarter. Magical.