Day 35 Crossing the border. Copa Cobana, Vanessas last night`

We set off from Puno early in the morning for a long bus ride to the border with Bolivia , it was a relatively easy crossing apart from the fact that we were banned from talking to our tour guides. Bolivia has a slight issue that they don�t like Peruvian guide, why can�t a Bolivian guide tourists round Bolivia? But we had no problems and arrived at the sleepy town of Copa Cobana on the shores of the lake.

A quick lunch later and it was off to La Paz, the highlight of the journey was a rather odd ferry crossing to the other side of the lake. The bus took a kind of barge type thing while we went on a small boat, the outboard on the boat was very sick and it took quite some time to cross! La Paz was from the out set a very odd city, we arrive on a Sunday so the market was not in full swing but the tight windy streets were still lined with stalls selling everything imaginable! We went to a delicious Asian restaurant from dinner to celebrate our last night with Vanessa, early night ready for the Death Road.

Day 36 Death Road

Yet again an early start, at the tour agency for 8am, it was quarter to nine before we got kitted out in helmet (full face mask), pants, luminous jackets and gloves. An hour by bus outside of La Paz we arrived at the highest point just over 4600m above sea level; the first down hill section was on the new tarmac road and was very pleasant. The fog cleared briefly to give us some views over the valley and while it was very fast (the record is over 60mph) not very scary.

Then up for 3km, not too easy given the altitude but some snacks waiting for us at the top. Then came the proper downhill bit. The death road proper is a 10km stretch of dirt road between 3m and 5m wide perched on the edge of a 600m drop.

It is so called due to the tremendous number of deaths since it�s construction, the worse accident killing 80 teenagers all at once. It used to be a two way high way into La Paz but it has now been closed, although it is due to reopen soon while repairs are made to the new road!At the moment the traffic is minimal limited to the down hillers and a few crazy locals, we encountered one such truck on the way down. Recently there have been fewer deaths, only 15 cyclists have managed to kill them selves over the last 4 years,mostly by going too fast or through sheer bad luck, one poor girl was so scared as a truck passed her that her backed off the edge on foot, but then again she was French!

For the main part of the bad downhill I stayed pretty far back, the rain was pretty bad and the spray from other peoples wheels meant that the a sensible gap was helpful. No big problems, you have to be being really stupid to risk anything bad happening, there was one point where I decided to overtake said truck going down hill and when off road a bit while getting lots of mud in my eyes and not really being able to see where I was going, but clearly it wasn�t that bad as I�m here to tell the tale!Once down a buffet tea and shower sorted out the aches and pains then back to La Paz for a chilled out evening.

Day 37 Propper look around La Paz and the witches Market

La Paz is the biggest city in Boliva, the de facto capital given that it houses the seat of government, however, it is not the official constitutional capital, that honor goes to the city of Sucre. This strange arrangement is the result of a status quo reached just over 100yrs ago, it is by no means a stable arrangement. More about this later. The sprawling city still retains some colonial charm in parts but generally the quaint has given over to the modern, obviously poorer than anywhere so far on the trip there is a juxtaposition between the obviously poor and the pair of puma trainers I bought for 40USD.

We spent the day wandering around the city looking at some of the shops and relaxing. One of the odd highlights was the witches market, a collection of no more than half a dozen shops dedicated to the dark arts, basically a collection of charms potions and various dead things. Once of the most popular charms is the Llama Foetus, to be buried under houses to bring good luck. Very gross but got some pics (to be uploaded soon).Nice meal at a near by hotel then on to the Hard Rock Caf�that claimed the prize for best music of the trip with everything from Umm Bob to Teen Spirit and Raggaton to REM. Very random and a lot of fun, a good introduction for our new tour guide Christian, a Chillean on his 3rd GAP trip. Alas Lionel is a bit too much of a party animal for his own good and needed some superglue repairs the following morning.

Day 38, Bus to Cochabumba.

No early morning this time just a 7 hour drive to the 3 biggest city in Bolivia, first impressions aren't bad but it�s late before we arrive so we end up eating at Burger King, some welcome familiarity for sure.

Day 39: Cochambumba

The longest breakfast in the world, 1.5hrs, was not a welcome start but after that we headed to the giant Jesus, like the one in Rio (Christ redeemer now a wonder of the world) but 4cm taller? and aren't they proud of it!A few pics then o9nto the main square to have a look around check email etc. Lunch at the Lonely Planet recommended Gopal, a strange buffet set up run by Hari Chrisna, not the bnest food ever and out right odd at times!A wander around the main squares and avenues to the cinema for ice cream, a very American style food court with some intriguing options.

Then across to the Palace of the Gates, a 1920�s construction that in inflation adjusted terms must be one of the most expensive constructions ever. The owner, one S. I. Patino was once tenth richest man in the world, he never actually lived in the house due to ill heath but he left it to his foundation and it is now used as a cultural center.The House is in the most strange style, trying to recreated the great palaces of Europe no expense was spared in bringing in the best crafts men from Europe along with all the materials needed to built the house. It is rather small for the style with grand staircases, fireplaces and a gallery based on one in the Vatican Library! Very odd building but worth a alook if you�re ever in Chochambumba.

A few rounds of bowling, with truly awful form on my part led us back to the cinema for the strangest dim sun ever, it was more like profiterols!

Day 40 Early flight to Sucre, Riots and the wortse music ever.We elected to pay an extra 70USD to avoid an overnight bus ride in Bolivia, as is apparent from the ladies squatting on the street the Bolivians are less than modest when it comes to peeing and appraently the night bus is no exception! The flight was very comfortable and the airport had a Subway sandwich!We arrived at the best hotel yet, it was almost as decident as the Palace at Chochabumba! We were going to go horse riding on the Sunday but the agency only had 5 horses and we'd heard rumours of possible strikes and or protests. So instead it was resolved to do the local city sites. I spent the first day relaxing wandering around the city and making some phoencalls home, then i took a nap. When I woke up it was to the sound of chating and banging, outside a stream of people were walking past the hotel, banging together anythgin they could to make a noise. Women, Childrne, Men, the Poor, People in Locla dress, Business dress, school uniforms. The city hd coem to a stand still. I metioned earlier that Sucre was the offical capital, well the residents of Sucre and the farmers of the arible area aaorund it want the government to come back, the president is the first indidgeonous president ever, he promised vast consitutional reforms and seems to be trying to keep his promises. The problem is this does not please everyone; some people worry about his ties to Chavez others his removal of the maximum presidential term. Beyond this Venezaulan troop were seen aarriving by plane in Sucre a few days earlier and the people were not happy. Bear in mind Bolivia is not a stable contry, they have had many coups, revolutions and bad leaders in there short hsitory and now communisim is resurgent in Latin America, People are un easy. Being 10m from the main square we were poised to be in the thick of it, me and Oliva went to the square to see what was going on. After nearly being hit by fire crackers we made a sharp exit back to the hotel. Ian and Issey were there and we went out for another look, this tiem rather than marchign around the street most peopel were concentrated in one side of the square, police motobikes posted at each corner. Suddely people started running in the far corner of the plaza and so did we, making it back to hotel jsut before the police zoomed past closely followed by the protestors. It became sclear that riot police had fired tear gas, the mob regoruped at the top of our street and set fire to a tire. The hotel locked it's doors and our Christian checked we were all safe. 4 People were msising, they soon called to say they had taken refudge in cafes and bars near by, the hotel right int eh centre of the action. Theere is a phtoo of riot police and protestors in the riot almbum, this was taken fromt eh 1st floor balcony of the hotel locking in both directions, we were litterally stabnding directly above no mans land. For the next hour there was tooing and frowing about this point, aat obne point the police were puches from the right then back into the square onyl to regoup and coem back with more force. At one point a teargas canestor flew past at eye level filling the hotel, not an experience I would soon wish to repeat. Over teim the crow cleared, their point made they seemed to get bored, or possibly go for dinner, the smell of brunign tires still int he air we headed out to dinner, it was Catherines Birthday so we went out to a bar called Joy Ride who played the worste music ever. Day 41 Dinasoure foot prints and odd religious artDay 42 Markets, wine and horror moviesDay 43 Bus to PotosiTomorrow: Silver Mine and Mint MuseumThen Onto the Slat Flats17 hr bus journey down Chile

24hr Bus journey to Beuons Aires