Day 32 - 37 Salkantay trek

The bus picked us up at 4:30 am and after a few stops it filled very quickly with trekkers and before we knew it there were 19 people in our group. A little more than the 9 total we were told were in our group yesterday. After a few hours drive to the beginning of our trek, we all hopped out, had a breakfast stop, packed our gear together and got introduced to the guides. Victor was the main guide and Jorge (Hor-hay) was the assistant. The group was a mixed bunch but all really nice people. There were a few Poms, some Germans, a couple of Seppo's, some Swedes, a Dane, a Brazilian and then us Aussies.

The first day was hot. The walking was steep and at times through some thick jungle vegetation. We were all sweating and pulling the layers off along the way.The scenery began to change as we climbed more and more until we were into the hills where the wind was stronger and cooler. After about 7 hrs of walking we arrived at our first camp site. This was to be the coldest night on the trek. Our tents were all set up under a huge tarpaulin style tent where we had a long table for meals. We were VERY thank full to be sleeping in tents within a tent as the temperature quickly dropped dramatically and overnight the rain bucketed down. I slept in all my clothes and still froze along with many of the other girls in the group yet the boys and their better heat producing bodies seemed to have a good nights sleep. We all woke a little tired and weary but were ready for what had been explained to us as the hardest day of the trek. Today we were to cross a pass at 4600m. We were to start the day at 3800m and end at camp tonight at 3400m, that was alot of walking.

Today was the hardest but not because of the steep terrain, the weather was not kind. Again our 'water proof' gear was tested and boy was it tested. After 2.5 hours in the rain and cold we got to the top of the pass, the highest point of our trek. This is normally supposed to take approx 4 hrs however due to the conditions none of us were in the mood to take in the serenity. On the way up it started to snow which sounds like it would be a nice thing to see but not when everything was already wet and we had lost feeing in many extremities. Instead of celebrating the pass at the top with a gathering of the group and happy photo's, we were hurriedly shuffled down the path by our guides to get to the lunch point where we could find shelter.

Finally we reached a small wooden hut, roughly 2 hrs ahead of schedule, where all 19 of us clambered in, stripped off what we could and gathered around a small table, surrounded by our wet gear hanging from the rafters above. We watched as some cooks prepared what looked like to be an amazing lunch of grilled fish and veggie patties with salad, soup and rice. We continued to watch them prepare this delicious food and then carry it out from the hut and towards another trekking group that had landed not far away too. Right, not a good start. Finally we got our soup and cold pasta and all ate it fast to warm our bodies. After an hour in the hut we had to put all our gear back on and finish the last 3 hrs of walking for the day.

We walked further down and down, watching the terrain and surrounding vegetation change into thick jungle. The track was wet, slippery and full of mud. We arrived at our campsite which sat next to a fast flowing river. It was pretty but wet and our camping gear arrived wet for the night, another nice surprise. We had luckily wrapped our sleeping bags in plastic but many others were not so lucky and most of the mattresses were wet from the days rain. The night was alittle warmer but still quite wet.

The third day was warmer again with only a few sprinkles of rain. We continued the walk and arrived into the town of Santa Teresa where we were staying for the night. Our camp was set up inside an unfinished hostel, which seemed weird but we didn't mind when it started to rain again, we were happy to be under that concrete slab.

Over dinner we were greeted by the resident squirrel monkey that was cute and funny until it continued to jump on the table and steal handfuls of sugar out of the bowl. It finally fell asleep in one of the Americans arms until we banished it from the table for dinner time. The night was passed by playing spoons and other simple yet fun card games amongst the group. I started to feel alittle unwell after today but thought perhaps it was just fatigue and maybe the random cold meals we had been eating. We slept alittle better in the warmth but were looking forward to the hostel the next night.

The fourth day we started with an interesting breakfast. Quinoa porridge, the standard bread and jam and vanilla cake with jam on top. The cake was actually the best part. We were given the choice of an optional bus ride up to the bridge which we all opted to take and save the 3 hrs of walking as we already had 6 hours ahead of us for the day.I was very happy for this option as I was starting to feel alittle worse. We passed many banana plants, coffee trees and more. We finally arrived at the suspension bridge and started our walking. With 'Stand by Me' singing in our heads, we crossed the river and started the walk along the train tracks to Aguas Calientes. Brendan was up the front, carrying another girls bag, trying to make a point to the useless guides and I was at the back for the first time, dragging myself along at a snails pace, just trying to get there. Today was the last day of the Salkantay trek and tomorrow we were visiting Machu Picchu. We finally rolled into Aguas Calientes where we were shown our hostel with a comfy bed and hot water. Everyone quickly changed into their bathers and headed to the hot springs for the afternoon. I had a shower and passed out in bed for 3 hours as I was shattered and my guts were not in a good way.

Machu Picchu

This was one of the hardest days of walking so far, not made any easier by having gastro but I was not going to miss a thing and it did not disappoint as being the highlight of the trek.

We woke up at 3am, ready to start the walk up to Machu Picchu at 3:30am with the rest of the group. We were all determined to be one of the first 400 people at the gate to secure our tickets up to Wayna Picchu, another mountain within the site that you can climb and get amazing views from. By 4am we were all sweating like crazy. The Incas made some pretty massive steps. The walk up was tough but Brendan charged it on and was fifth in line at the gate for a ticket. I brought up the rear of the group with a few others but still made it up there to be in the top 50. After celebrating reaching the gate with high fives all round my guts were gone and Machu Picchu was no longer sacred. I was shattered once again and the boiled potato for dinner had already run out of energy in me. We all sat around waiting for the gates to open at 6am, watching as more and more people made it up the tough hill. Finally at 5:45 the first bus load of people arrived and they too joined the line to make up the first 400 people.

The gates opened and we were in. This place was just amazing and we entered to see a completely empty Machu Picchu. We were the first ones there and that was more special than anything. We headed straight to the guard house for the classic view and watched as the sun crept in over the valley. It was worth every bead of sweat, every stomach grumble and every oversized quad stretching step. This place was BEAUTIFUL. We couldn't have asked for a better day of weather either. The sun rose up over the valley and the temperature was just perfect. Our guide took us on a tour for a few hours, visiting some of the most important sites and hearing some of the possible theories behind the existence and reason for Machu Picchu. It got to 10am and it was time for us to start our trek up to the top of Wayna Picchu, another 400 metres up a very steep rocky mountain. The climb up was tough again but well worth it. We pulled ourselves up the rocks, climbed through small caves and then finally made it to the top where we took in the whole of Machu Picchu and its fascinating location up the top of these mountains.

The rest of the day was spent exploring the site and laying on the green grassy terraces, soaking up some Incan sun, eating snacks and watching as tourists walked the site with their wide brim hats and cameras a plenty. We were actually lucky that there were not many people that day. The bus loads of people dwindled down as the afternoon sun dipped and it was just amazing to be able to have so much time in such a special place. We decided to catch the bus down to Aguas Calientes and skip the hundreds of steps we walked earlier.

Back down to the town for a well earned sleep and then an early train and bus ride back to Cusco the next day. Our last day in Cusco consisted of us both getting a massage, booking a few things for Lima and beyond and having a local take away dinner with Dan and Bec before we parted ways. Although my dinner consisted of porridge...safe food for the guts.