Day 2 - Buenos Aires

Another HUGE day.

We started with breakfast at the hostel which consisted of croissants, Danish's and other sweet pastries, small fresh bread rolls, tea and coffee. After eating a breakfast of champions and deciding to buy some cereal for tomorrow, we headed out and started walking to an area called La Boca about 50mins away.

La Boca is typically a traditional working-class part of town renowned as an artists' enclave, colourful buildings made from sheets of corrugated iron, Boca Juniors (world renowned soccer team), Diego Maradonna, as well as a being a relatively unsafe part of town if you get off the main streets.

When Mia first enquired as to how she could walk to La Boca the bloke on the desk at reception went pale. Once he picked himself up off the ground, he explained cautiously that there were really only 3 streets that were safe to walk down. He drew a small circle on the map highlighting the safe areas, and a circle 5 times the size of the original circle showing the places not to go. This circle had a big cross through it just to highlight the area further.

However once he found out that Brendan would be walking with Mia he was more relaxed knowing that there would be suitable muscle present if things got out of hand ... fortunately for the locals nothing did eventuate.

The Sunday markets were in full swing by the time we navigated the cobble stone streets, the few remaining safe streets of La Boca were full of local art, food, live music and tourists. Another surprise was a greasy, overweight Maradonna looking bloke dressed in full Argentinean Soccer uniform who was selling himself for photo opportunities ... on second thoughts based on recent photos of the once great man it may have actually been the real deal.

There were some amazing local artists and paintings in the markets and again we were very tempted to purchase something for the house but the thought of carrying it for 5 months quickly changed those ideas. After an hour or so of walking the 3 safe streets and taking some photos we headed back towards San Telmo.

San Telmo is another region of BA which is the suggested home of Tango Culture, cobbled stone streets and fabulous antique stores. Being Sunday the main square, Plaza Dorrego, was jammed with tourists and locals alike experiencing the markets and many buskers. San Telmo is also home to some wonderful old buildings with expansive courtyards and marble floors. With lunch upon us our stomachs began to grumble more and more. It was time for our first empanada. $2.50 pesos which is less than AUS$1 and it was AWESOME. So tasty that I went back for another later on. But now we needed real food, steak anyone? We shared a steak sandwich which we devoured and enjoyed every part of, especially the sauce left of our faces. So now we were re-fuelled and ready to keep on going. We continued through the markets and on home via a supermarket where we picked up some cereal and bananas for breakfast.

Our legs were so tired, we put our heads down for a nap and before we knew it we were out. We woke up in a hurry, got in the shower and headed out the front ready to be picked up by the bus to return back to La Boca to again test our luck with the locals.This time it was strength in numbers as we were part of an organised tour full of international football lovers to see a South American Football game ... La Boca V San Lorenzo.

On the bus on the way to the ground, we were each handed a sheet with the La Boca songs and chants on it, just in case we wanted to try and follow one. We were also handed a map of where we were going to be sitting and a few rules/tips like "Please don't cheer for any other team except La Boca Jnrs - It's a matter of life and death"!

As with everyone else entering the ground, we were searched at 4 separate security checkpoints, and with large numbers of riot police, fully kitted out in their gear, we thought it best to let them confiscate our small bottle of water. We scaled the steep stairs of the stadium and were instructed to sit below the above tier. We asked why and they said that the visiting team fans were seated above and as we saw in the next 90 - 120 minutes, the number, size and sheer weight of the projectiles being launched, it was a sound suggestion.

The stadium was enormous and began to fill quickly. The reserve game was on when we arrived and the passionate fans were already out in force. This was going to be a good night. We were sitting amongst the locals but not the crazy locals which were at the opposite end of the field. We were with the semi crazy. It was getting colder and our concrete steps were becoming even more uncomfortable to sit on but we knew we would soon be standing and for a long time so we enjoyed it while we could. The stadium was packed and the banners, flags, umbrellas, whistles and horns were all out. The other team walked onto the field to a most undeserving display of whistling, booing and Spanish sledging. Now for La Boca, the crowd went insane, yellow and blue coloured paper burst into the air, smoke machines went off and the chanting began and from then on it didn't stop. The game was just awesome. The singing and chanting was nonstop and we loved every moment. The passion of these fans was enormous and unrelenting, I would hate to see how they would be if alcohol was allowed in the stadium.

As we were sitting with the locals, we had to wait approx 1 hr after the game finished before we could leave. All supporters from the visiting team were taken out first, and given time to leave La Boca and save their lives, before they opened the gates to the locals. This really hit home as to how serious these guys are about their game.

The atmosphere was unbelievable and none of the above words do it justice, but hopefully some of the attached give you some sort of indication as to what it was like to experience a local game with over 50,000 people.

The game was a local derby and as many of us know regardless of where teams are positioned on a ladder you always bring out your best when you are playing your neighbouring team. Boca were sitting low on the ladder and San Lorenzo but triumphed 2-0. This was fortunate for us as we were sitting in the locals area and considering how crazy there were when they won, I would hate to have been there if they lost.

Finally we got back on the bus and we headed home. We arrived exhausted and hungry so we made some midnight porridge and went to bed. What another GREAT day.