Hello everyone. It is 5:05 pm our time on a rainy Saturday in Arequipa, Peru. (We are drenched from the waist down, as drainage is poor and we have been splashed by passing cars numerous times.) We arrived here at 7:30 this morning after a low budget overnight 12 hour bus journey from Ica. As we have only been in the city for a few hours, we will use this blog to write about our experiences in Pisco.

We first arrived in Pisco a week ago today coming from Lima. Actually, we arrived on the side of the Panamerican highway (where the bus dropped us off). We must of looked really lost, confused, touristy and white because we were quickly approached by a tour guide from Pisco (5km away). He was selling tours of the islands off Paracas (which we mentioned in our last blog) and offered to help us find a cheap hotel and then take us to his agency. Since the agency he worked for was recommended by Lonely Planet, we readily welcomed his help.

A quick word on the Lonely planet. The book is like a detailed rutter a navigator like Columbus, Magellen, Drake, or Cook might have had or made. Like a rutter detailing water conditions, climate, directions, ports, vegetation, different cultures, foods, etc... the Lonely Planet does the same. In the Lonely Planet travel routes, popular destinations, potential dangers, prices, restaurants, museums, etc... are discussed. Prepared for backpackers by backpackers, it is a good source for information. However, the Lonely Planet presents its limitations as well (it acknowledges this). For example, the cities and routes that the Lonely Planet discusses often become ¨the gringo trail¨ as backpackers will tend to follow the recommended guide. This has two main problems (which in a way are hypocritical). The first is that the knowledge that the Lonely Planet provides has the potential to dramatically change cultures as the book may encourage people to travel to ¨virgin or untouched¨ places - places that have yet to be altered by western values. The second problem is that it effectively ensures that most travellers follow the same route. This ensures that cultures and economies are forever altered as life begins to revolve around tourism. It also ensures that travellers will continually meet the same travellers in their travels. For example, we met a young man from Switzerland when we were studying Spanish in Quito. Two weeks after that, we ran into him again in Banos. Just today, three weeks later, we ran into him again in Arequipa.

Anyways, back to Pisco. Riding into Pisco, our tour guide friend told us of the earthquake Pisco (and also the communites of Chinca and Ica) had experienced in the middle of August. (Another potential problem with Lonely Planet, it quickly becomes dated - there was no mention of the earthquake.) The earthquake was of a 7.9 magnitude. The epicenter was 7km off of the coast in the ocean. In Pisco, roughly one in every three buildings collapsed. (Interestingly, before the Spanish arrived in South America, buildings were constructed to withstand earthquakes. However, Spanish influence seemed to of wiped out that knowledge so in Pisco, the majority of the buildings were made with adobe bricks - essentially weak clay that is kiln dried). During the car ride, our guide told us that the Peruvian government had given families whose homes had completely collapsed 6000 soles (2000 dollars), to buy materials for a new home. The government did not provide any money for labour. This government policy resulted in many people knocking down their homes (if they had not collapsed) in order to collect the money. The policy also resulted in very slow construction.

We arrived in Pisco and saw the devestation. One of the first buildings we saw was the collapsed church (only the bell towers now stand). During the earthquake (which occured at 6:15 pm), over 200 people had been in the church attending mass. During the earthquake, people outside in the square ran into the church believing god would protect them. Instead, the church collapsed and 300 people died. In total, there were approximately 500 deaths in Pisco.

We found a hostel (one of the few buildings on the block standing), dumped our bags, and went to explore/find dinner. We headed to the Plaza De Armas three blocks away. (When exploring a new city, we often start with the central square as it allows us to orientate ourselves.) On the way, we saw one room temporary homes that have been donated by UNICEF and other NGO´s. These are typically made of cheap 1/2X3 or 1/"x4 tongue and groove boards held together with 1X2´s. Dimensions average 9ft by 15ft. They usually do not have electricity or plumbing. Unfortunately because of the level of poverty in Pisco, these homes are likely to become permanent dwellings. (Pisco is a place that could not afford to have an earthquake.)

Upon reaching the main square, we went in search of food. Wandering down on street that had many vendors, we immediately became aware of the danger present in Pisco. Within two minutes, we saw two vendors selling hand guns, machetes, brass knuckles, etc... Soon after, we saw a vendor selling rifles. These vendors sell their items on makeshift tables on the sides of the street. Braden was able to look at and touch the weapons with no questions asked. As we wandered around, we began to feel more and more uncomfortable. We hastily found food and retired back to the hotel early that evening. The next day, we went to the islands off the coast of Paracus, and then made a quick departure to Ica and Hauchicano. It was in Hauchicano that we met the volunteers who convinced us to return to Pisco.

Monday evening we arrived back in Pisco and caught a Tuk Tuck / Rickshaw to the Burners without Borders house. The Burner house is located just a couple of blocks off the beach. It has two large dormitories (each with 12 bunkbeds), and kitchen, two washrooms, and a common eating area with tables and a firepit. There were three cold showers and a free washing machine. To stay at the house we had to pay 10 soles a day each, but this was a great price because it included the bed, breakfast, lunch and dinner (all vegetarian), and laundry. That evening, we were introduced to the 40 or so volunteers, were briefed on the ongoing projects, and had a wonderful vegetarian dinner.

Here is some background on Burners without Borders and their current projects. The organization as grown off of the annual 30,000 person Burning Man Festival help in Nevado each summer. When Hurricane Katrina hit New Orleans, the coordinators of the Burning Man Festival hired someone to organize relief and rebuilding efforts for those in need. Hence, Burners without Borders was born. Transfer this thought to Pisco. In August, 2007, Pisco was hit by a 7.9 magnitude earthquake. Already poor and crime ridden, Pisco is not a community likely to be able to rebuild after a natural disaster of this size. To help clear rubble and provide temporary shelter (among other things), an organization called Hands On, began work in Pisco with between 100 and 150 volunteers. However, if we have our information straight, in a period of 2-3 weeks in December/January 9 volunteers were mugged at machete/knife point. Following this unfortunate sequence of events, Hands On pulled out of Pisco for safety reasons. However, at this same time, just a small handful off volunteers existed as Burners without Borders. When Hands On left, BWB took over their lease to the house and adjacent lot, and recruited some of their volunteers that wanted to stay on. Hence, BWB Peru was born. After a month or so of full operation, BWB´s projects are as follows: the rebuilding of two schools, rubble removal, pouring of foundations for temporary homes, and the construction of a prototype for a sanitary facility to be mass produced. (Instead of just building a few homes, BWB hopes to help many more people by just constructing the bathroom of a home, and then allow residents to slowly build off the bathroom as they get more money. The bathroom with have a toilet, sink and shower, be plumbed into the water and sewer system, and have a 600 gallon water tank on the roof. These units will cost roughly 1000 American each - labour free.) Burners is also looking ahead for new projects, but at the same time is careful not to promise to much, as the amount of volunteer labour varies week by week. For example, the day we left, so did 4 others, which is essentially the amount of people needed for one job site.

Our first day at work proved to be very eventful. We headed off two blocks away to help pour a 9ft by 15ft concrete slab for a temporary home. At the time BWB did not yet have a cement mixer (it arrived Friday), so it took a crew of 6 or 7 a full day to pour the cement. Sidenotes from the day. Number One. Braden got bit in the ankle by a dog. There are street dogs everywhere in Pisco, three of which have been semi-adopted by BWB. These dogs constantly follow volunteers to the market, to work places, etc... Anyways, as Braden was reaching for a shovel, he accidently stepped on Sparky´s paw, which resulted in the bite. Not taking any precautions, Braden and two other volunteers went that afternoon to visit the best doctors in Pisco. These are a small group of Cuban doctors who have set up a hospital in a walled community also house.... Braden is fine. Just realized that we have to pick up our laundry... will finish this tonight or tomorrow.

Love Braden and Maya.