It is April 11th, we are in Sucre, but in an hours time, we will catch an overnight bus to Cochabamba. We arrived in Sucre two days ago from Uyuni. As mentioned in our last blog, Sucre is the Paris of South America. Dating back over 400 years, Sucre was created as a home for the rich owners of mines in nearby Potosi. While Potosi is located at 4100m in a harsh climate (very hot in the day, very cold at night), Sucre is located 200 km west at an altitude of 2700m. The climate here is much milder. It is said that over one million workers have died in the Potosi Silver mines - both indigenous Bolivians and slaves from Africa. The benefits of their hard work and sacrifice are seen here in Sucre. Where Potosi is old adobe brick buildings in disrepair, Sucre is full of old colonial mansions and numerous churches. We have actually been staying in an old mansion one block off the main plaza. We should add the Sucre is a student town - it apparently has one of the best universities of all of South America (with 30,000 students). Because of its student atmosphere, and because of the wealth that still exists here, the town is very politically minded. On both mornings that we have been here, there have been demonstations in the main plaza. Overall, Sucre is said to be more conservative than the western half of Bolivia, and that most people from here are against the current President - the indigenous Evo Morales. Elections are apparently in 3 1/2 weeks and we have been advised that Sucre might be quite heated then.

The first night here, we did not do much. Exhausted after 11 hours on the bus from Uyuni, we immediately found a hostel and got some much needed sleep. (We are both recovering from nasty colds.) We also should add that for 7 hours of the bus ride, the road was no better than a second rate logging road back in British Columbia. Narrow, steep turns, bumps, dust and the occasional forge over a small river were the norm.

Yesterday, we explored the local food market a couple blocks from our hostel. We first passed through the bakery area - full of medium quality goods. Then we came across the vegetables. Amazing is the only word to use here. All of the fruits and vegetables were huge, of good color, and free from bruises. They were of the best quality that you would find in Canada. After buying some vegetables for lunch sandwiches, Braden was asked to help move a 50kg bag of carrots. Leaving the vegetable section, we came across the meat and cheese goods. Here the market varies dramatically from home. Nothing is refrigerated. Nothing. We passed chickens hanging, lumps of ground beef, steaks, the biggest blocks of cheese we have ever seen, etc... However, when we passed upside down goats with their insides missing but still having their fur and bones, it was time to leave.

In the afternoon, we hiked up the hill to see a monestary and to eat dinner at a restaurant that overlooks Sucre. The monestary was interesting - highlights include a 1500 year old tree (like an oak) and orange tree courtyards. Also impressive was the religious artwork and the vestments preserved from a few hundred years ago. Afterwards, we went for smoothies at the restaruant. Soon after, we were pestered by a 10 year old boy wanting to shine Bradens shoes (which are not leather). They wanted to shine Mayas too, but she was wearing sandals. After much persistance, Braden finally gave in and settled on a fee of 5 Bolivianos for the job (70 cents). The boy did a great job and by the end, he was joined by his 11 year old friend, also a shoe shiner. We asked the boys if they were hungry, and then bought them sandwiches and Fanta (orange pop). Talking to them while they ate, we learned much about their lives. They told us that they go to school for 4 hours a day, from 8-12 in the morning. In the afternoon they try to shine shoes in hopes of making enough money for food and for the bus ride home. They each live with their aunts as their parents work in the countryside and they only see them on Saturdays. We asked where they go if they dont have enough money for the bus, and they said they sleep on the street. We asked if they like to play soccer, they both said they were very good, but they only had sandals made from car tires to wear (they were wearing these at the time) and that the only ball they had was a bag filled with trash. They spoke some English and French (but just a few phrases of each). Their favorite sentence was Will You Buy Me ______. After they finished eating the four of us headed to the main square. (We didnt have any money left for our own dinner.) Along the way, Braden found a plastic bag and the four of us stuffed it with litter from along the ground. We set up a net with their shoe shining equipment and had a quick game on the street. At the square, we said bye to them, and hoped they would make it home that evening. (We had given them each 30 centivos for the bus). Looking back, we can see that both boys were much older in age than 10 year old boys back home. Their eyes were tired, and their words were of someone older than either of us. For example, when we first met them, the boy said it would cost 50 Bolivianos (7 dollars) for Braden to have his shoes shined. Braden said that was very expensive, and the boy replied that life here in Sucre was very expensive.

We must go now to catch our overnight bus to Cochabama. There, we will vist a woman named Marcela - a friend of Mayas parents. We are told that our bus is semi-cama (half beds) and that the road is paved but we will see about that.

Miss you all. Lots of love and thinking of home lots.

Braden and Maya.

xoxoxoxo.