Week two was certainly as interesting as week one! We checked our to do list of places to see and got busy so this will be another long post.

Our mastery of the public transportation system continued to improve with practice. The bus system is very cheap at about $0.30 a ride but a bit erratic. Sometimes the bus we were waiting for would just drive right past the stop and they didn't follow a set route. We learned to follow along using Google maps to be sure we were not being lead astray and several times had to jump off when the driver would decide to take a detour to avoid traffic. One day we, and all the other passengers, were just told to get off the bus mid trip which as it turned out was a better plan as walking the last 1/2 mile was actually faster. To avoid traffic, which is everywhere and almost constant, we learned to take the train as far as possible, then look for a bus. We did take several Tuk Tuk's when we got tired of waiting for the bus but only once during rush hour. Sitting low, in an open vehicle, in stop and stop traffic, breathing exhaust in the heat of the day is not a good thing. Tuk Tuk's had there own eccentricities as you have to negotiate your fare, survive the zipping amongst the traffic and one evening our driver took a detour to stop for a drink at a favorite stop midway through our trip. He did offer to get us one though.

The people continue to be mostly friendly. There are of course the people selling stuff and some pushy Tuk Tuk drivers but there are many more just trying to be helpful. The ticket lady on the bus would often come back and tell us this was our stop, which was pretty amazing given the number of people that were getting on and off. People would also stop us on the street to direct us towards the main attractions. One night as we waited for the bus we had two different old ladies hollering at Bill because he had his camera out. They wanted him to put it away. There were lots of warnings about pickpockets and drive by scooter thieves but fortunately we escaped without incident.

We visited the Chatuchak Weekend Market on Saturday with what felt like a few hundred thousand of our closest friends (given the lack of personal space). It is the largest market in Bangkok covering over 27 acres. You can find anything and everything there. They had the standard tchotchkes and touristy stuff, loads of food vendors, clothes (including T-shirts selling for ~$0.50 that look like they came from US donation services) etc like any large flea market but they also had a large area filled with artist stands with some amazing stuff. There was even a whole section of animals. Huge turtles, probably up to 50 lbs, baby hawks and owls, lots of puppies, all kinds of birds and tiny squirrels, fish, reptiles, it went on and on. Most would not allow pictures. I got a pair of fit-flops for $20, brand new, not a copy as far as I can tell. I'll be returning the ones I ordered from Amazon (>$100) just before we left the US.

Since Dessa likes UFC, we sprang for tickets to a Muay Thai fight. The "heavyweight fighters" weighed 130 lbs, and the lightweights weighed under 110. Each fight was preceded by a ritual of blessings from the fighters, bowing to the pads in each corner, then about 5 minutes of dancing/prancing around in the ring (see video). The bouts were 5 rounds, 3 minutes each. Usually the first round was just warming up and checking each other out. Then they went after it. These guys have no body fat. You could study muscle anatomy using them as a model. Every cord and sinew shows through their skin. Bill was not particularly excited about going but enjoyed it. It was quite a show of skill and more than just hitting each other. Watching the native crowd bet was like watching the stock exchange when it goes crazy. We could not begin to understand how they were keeping track who bet, how much and on who (see video as some things do not translate in photos). The stadium was a fair ways out from downtown so we shared a cab and train ride back to the city with a man from Denmark and his son. He had been in the city a month and was still not very adept at the transit system, so I guess we are doing pretty well.

The Golden Buddha is 5.5 tons of solid gold, so we went to see what $200M buys you these days. It was pretty impressive and as it turns out it's pretty difficult to photograph pure gold displayed under spotlights. The story goes the he was covered in plaster to hide him from an invading army, lost, and then rediscovered by accident when a piece of the plaster broke while it was being moved. The Buddhist people are very devout and make many different types of offerings. Incense, flowers, robes for the monks, cups of water and food, even gold flakes for sticking on the statues. These items are sold at each Wat and are placed at Buddha's feet. After a bunch has accumulated, someone would come along to gather them back up for resale to the next set of visitors. The people are very tolerant of all the gawking tourists and what must surely be a great lack of respect for their shrines.

Chinatown was next door, so we went to explore and get lunch. This place is a maze with stalls lining both sides of almost every alley and crowds of people. In some places it was difficult to walk between the stalls but there would still be scooters trying to get through. Dessa didn't want to try the BBQ'd pig face (neither did I actually) but we did have some fresh fruit and chicken satay. This is where we lost the screw that attached selfie pole #2 to the new camera (a $50 pole we bought with the camera). Pole #1, from New Year's Eve, was not strong enough to hold the new camera. It took us about 10 mins to find pole #3 (~$10). Fortunately #3 is Dessa's favorite so far.

The Grand Palace is another one of the main sights, so we joined the throngs for a visit. The guards were very strict here about the dress code (no shoulders or knees showing) and this was the most expensive site we visited at 500 baht ($15) each. The complex is massive and a jumble of buildings almost on top of each other. The Temple of the Emerald Buddha (actually jade) is also here. The Emerald Buddha has a similar story of being hidden, lost, and re-discovered as the Golden Buddha (a little more believable given his size). Photos were not allowed inside the Emerald Buddha temple but Bill managed a couple of good shots from outside the doorway. He was wrapped in a robe of woven gold and diamonds during our visit (Dessa means the Emerald Buddha's robe - not mine).

The Vimanmek Mansion was once the home of the King and is the largest golden teakwood house in the world. It is immaculately preserved and set within beautiful grounds. Balconies and lead glass windows surround the entire structure allowing it to be open and bright. A bit east meets west in decor, it is now a museum for the King's collections from swords and guns to ivory tusks and china.

Next stop was the Ananta Samakhom Throne Hall, which was probably the single most amazing place we visited. Under the Queen's patronage the Chitralada Arts and Crafts Centre provides a school where artisans continue to practice the highest traditional art forms of Thai history. On display within the Throne Hall is the Arts of the Kingdom collection. There were absolutely fabulous golden bejeweled thrones, massive intricate wood carvings 15 feet high that told a continuous story that moved from carvings on the front and back sides, gold and silver replicas of royal conveyances decorated with inset gems and beetle wings, silk wall hangings of indescribable beauty, enameling, ivory carving, extremely fine basket work, and on and on. We were surprised to learn that most of the major pieces were created in the last 10 years to celebrate recent anniversaries of the King or Queen and that they were crafted by large groups of Chitralada students working for a long time (like 100 artists working for 18 months). All are beautifully displayed in a building that was art in itself, with brilliant frescoes on the walls and every domed ceiling. Unfortunately they don't allow any photography and they enforced it by requiring everyone to place all belongings in lockers. If you are ever in Bangkok, do not miss this. It was not even on our list but entry was included with the Grand Palace ticket so we gave it a try.

I couldn't visit Thailand without getting a massage, so I found a reputable place and made an appointment. I went alone on the train, and then with indispensable google maps, walked to the location. Health Land Spa was lovely, and I had one of the best massages I have ever had ($33 for 90 minutes). It included a mandatory shower, hot towel wraps and a full body massage with stretching. The girl spoke just enough English to give directions so I was mostly confident about what to do. No health questions or inquiries about what I needed. She figured it out by touch and did not leave me sore like most massages. At the end I was served delicious hot coconut tea. Awesome!

The only tour we booked while in Bangkok was a day trip to Ayutthaya. It is the old capital of Siam. For $60 each, they picked us up at our hotel, took us in a bus to see 4 separate sites, returned us to the city via river boat on which we had an excellent buffet lunch. We visited ruins that were 600-1000 years old including the Buddha head in the tree, a large outdoor reclining Buddha, and the grounds and buildings at Bang Pa-In Palace (a summer resort for the royal family). They then delivered us back to the hotel. Very well organized. We booked through Viator, but should have gone direct through River Sun Cruise. Probably would have saved 25%.

We returned one evening to Wat Arun to take night photos of it all lit up. We found a restaurant upstairs at the pier for dinner and watched the ferry crowds and the various boats on the river. Cashew shrimp, heads and legs included, and Pad Thai chicken were both excellent, and the Singha beer on ice was welcome. The beer is strong, I ate a shrimp head without even realizing it. As we watched, a lovely couple posed for wedding shots on the pier amongst the grunge. Our spot was not working for Bill's picture, so we wandered along the dark dinghy alleys of the pier looking for a better place. Bill has no fear and doesn’t hesitate to enter where others would not. Oddly enough, while it was a very "other world" experience, it was not really scary. The wedding photography group was close on our heels, taking another grunge shot with the Wat in the background, in their wedding attire this time. It was like being in the twilight zone.

Next we spotted Wat Pho all lit up and tried to take some photos over the wall. A nice Tuk Tuk driver told us it was still open and which way to go to get in. It was wonderful being there with no other tourists, only a few monks. We started taking lots of pics and then the unthinkable happened... we lost each other. It was dark, and we were both looking for good camera angles. Bill thought I went to the bathroom but I had stepped into a small courtyard to get a shot. He then wandered over to the bathroom area and I looked for him where I saw him last. We both waited where we were for a while, then started circling and calling each other, but these places are like mazes so we never crossed paths. Finally a pair of monks told me to go to the exit, who knew there was only one, and wait. A guard then went looking for Bill while I waited and we were reunited after about 30 (long) minutes. It wasn't a scary place to be separated but still was not fun, especially since Bill was displeased with my bad behavior for wandering off. According to Bill this was my fault (part of the job description as his wife). He also got a blister on his toe from a rock in shoe while he was searching for me. Again, my bad. This too is on the must do list if you visit Bangkok, Wat Pho at night, not the getting lost part.

For panoramic views of the city we went up to the Moon Bar on the 60th floor of The Banyon Tree Hotel. The entire top is an open-air restaurant and bar. We crowded into the bar where drinks were $20 for a small beer and a diet coke but they did include some bar snacks and of course the sunset views. It was not a great sunset, but the view was amazing. Bangkok sprawls in every direction. The land is quite flat and there were skyscrapers in every direction. The smog was very noticeable as a heavy blanket covering the city for miles.

Not having gotten sufficient propositioning on the first visit, we made a second trip to the red light district. Once again intrepid Bill led me all over the place, up the stairs and all around. We peeked into the bars but did not go in since the girls are required to keep you company when you are inside. Mostly very young girls and ladyboys (postoperative transsexuals) hanging all about. We tried to guess which were which but it was often very difficult to tell. Lots of dirty old fat drunk men were out looking for some fun. One approached me when Bill stepped away to take a picture. Guess there is a market for old ladies. Also I did get offered a Ping Pong show. :-) and I got slapped for taking a picture of some bugs on a food cart. Slapped on the hand, and the bugs were the food.

Our last night in Bangkok meant one last trip to the fabulous gourmet food court at the Siam mall for tasty treats and to see Taken 3. Movies are not cheap at $10 each, but the theaters are fantastic. 100% carpeted with leather seats that recline way back. Very upscale, great sound, and we didn't even try the 4d theater. The movies are assigned seating and in addition to picking your seat and picking your movie/show-time, you also need to select the actual theatre within the multiplex as they have different interiors and seating quality.

This will come as a shock to those that know my finicky eating habits but I have really enjoyed the food, especially the street food. Bill has been very patient about helping me to find things I will like. Sticky rice, spring rolls, omelets filled with veggies, sweet treats, fresh fruit, noodles, soups, seafood, pancakes filled with fruit… have all been great. It has helped that the street food is so cheap (often less than $1) so we’ve been much more willing to experiment knowing that if we didn’t like something we could simply throw it away. However, there is very little food safety control, dishes are washed on the street beside the cooking carts, and there is limited food refrigeration. There are really poor sanitation services with trash piles all over, you need to carry your own toilet paper (as we learned the hard way), soap for hand washing is also hit and miss and when available it is usually thinned to water, and there is often only a communal towel for drying. In spite of this, there is almost always a hand shower spray in the toilet stalls. Who uses those?

Air pollution controls and recycling are non-existent. It is simply generally dirtier. Since the tap water is not potable, millions of bottles of water are consumed and every tiny bite you buy goes into a plastic bag. I'm not a zealot when it comes to the environment, but this does show the downside of life without all the controls we have on the other side of the world. I now have a greater appreciation for the clean environment and breathable air we enjoy in the US.

In spite of this, I will miss Bangkok. It has been an adventure of a lifetime. It’s an amazing city and we could have happily spent even more time here but it's time to head to Phuket, where I hope the fresher air will clear my lungs of the smog that has been giving me respiratory fits. I have already taken one course of antibiotics and steroids. I'm currently not in the best shape for 4 solid days of diving, but we have three days of beach town first. Fingers crossed!

As with the last blog, higher resolution photos can be found on Flikr at:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/bill_and_ dessa/sets/72157647985062103/

...Bill and Dessa