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With a few awkward questions from airport security regarding the nature of 'our connection' my newfound Israeli friend and I were onto the plane and onward to Turkey.
I had been tossing around a few ideas on seeing another country or two while on this side of the planet what with return flights to Russia, Cyprus and Turkey all for under 300 dollars, the temptation to be frivolous was there and I could argue that I was actually saving money because if I flew from Australia later it would cost a fortune… In the end I settled on Turkey and don't regret it for a second. The people are as friendly as any place I have travelled though English is probably as scarce as any place I have travelled.
The adventure started in the heart of the tourist hub of Istanbul, Taksim. Well, technically, I had booked flights to the cheaper of Istanbul's two international airports so the adventure started with an hour and a half shuttle bus to Taksim but it was fine in comparison to later shuttles at 4am. The sun was shining and the scenery impressive. Ornate mosques adorned the built landscape while carefully trimmed parterre style gardens bordered many of the roads, roundabouts and highways, so as a gardener, the drive was as good as a packaged tour. The other thing that jumps out at you is the prevalence of Turkish flags (and this is coming from the incredibly patriotic Israel, where flags are everywhere). Turkey takes it to the next level though and flags spanning several stories are commonplace hanging from the cities skyscrapers along with every size in between where a spot stays bare too long.
I'd booked a hotel in Taksim with the idea that the tourist area was small enough to visit on foot and Taksim square was not far away and it all worked out well. Taksim square is not much to look at and has some history of violent protests but a quick stroll on and you are in Istiklal Avenue, one of the busiest and most enjoyable streets in Istanbul, claimed to be visited by several million people in a single day on weekends. I'd believe it too, as the street never sleeps and at three and four in the morning, the space is almost as crammed as at midday.
So it was all go, Turkish food and culture is on display among a barrage of nationalities, great street art, buskers and syndicated beggars. Vats of Turkish Delight boil away in well-lit windows of packed sweet shops full of baklava and eager tourists and as the nights pass my travel mate is repeatedly mistaken as Turkish. Shwarma or kebab stalls are on every corner for when you are peckish from the walks, the nightlife is electric and there was a good supply of live local music, Arak spirits and shisha to sample as required. Oh one of the other things you'll notice is that the Turkish seem to have a gift at creating night ambience with neons, the buildings take on a new life once the sun sets and it really is a great place to visit.
In daylight there was no shortage of sites either, and we managed to tick off the must see tourist destinations in the few days we had, including the Basilica Cistern (which looks awesome in the long exposure photos, nothing like the dimness in reality), The Blue Mosque, the Grand bazaar and a cruise on the Bosphorous River. The Grand Bazaar is interesting to visit but a good place to be swindled and the stall holders are absolute experts in the trade with one line hooks aplenty… Sir sir, wait, do you know who you remind me of?
I offer this piece of advice up freely, alarm bells should go off in any travelers head when you hear 'where are you from'. In all my travels this question is rarely asked out of interest or general conversation and is rather a precursor to an imminent swindle attempt. No, you are better off shopping in Istiklal, it seems like it would be more expensive but with firm prices written down on things it's a cheaper way to get almost everything you see at the Bazaar.
I really enjoyed Turkey, its highly developed but different enough from Western living that it is still a great adventure.
Next time Cappadocia in all its surreal and unequivocal glory.
- comments
taza not awkward at all, i've asked them to do that ))))