Tuesday 11th December.
Delicate start today for Bill - must have been something we ate. Today we have the ’Cactus valley’ trek with a civilised start time at 8.30. Gonzales and Juan are punctual and we travel in the freshly valeted 4x4 for about 40 minutes, up into the canyon belt below the Andes, travelling from an altitude of 2400 metres in the town, to 3000 metres. We pass a couple emerging from their camper van when we park to start if our hike - brings back happy memories of camping in beautiful places like this.
We set off, following a stream down into the narrow gorge. Over the centuries this stream (a river in winter / following a January monsoon) has eroded deep into the red volcanic rock exposing aggregates and igneous boulders. The water is the life force for a ribbon of plants on the canyon floor and numerous cacti - some 4 meters high - which grow improbably from the rocky canyon walls. Most of the cacti are covered in buds and many have pale pink or yellow flowers, facing upwards towards the sun.
The trail is really enjoyable. Being in a canyon, it is quite shady and the stream makes it feel cooler too. After the first few metres the gravel path is replaced by rocks and boulders, so we scramble and rock-hop most of the way. We had been advised against wearing binoculars round our necks, as ‘it is better to scrape your hands than lose your teeth’. However, we soon spot a flycatcher type bird - probably a tyrant and get them out of the rucksack anyway.
As we follow the stream, deeper into the canyon, the path is covered with small unstable rocks, and we jump across the stream from side to side and occasionally boulder or scramble round the bigger obstacles. It’s challenging enough to be fun without be scary.
The cacti continue to cover the walls of the canyon like huge sculptures. They only grow at 3cm / yr so some are hundreds of years old, bearing the scars of various traumas.
Deep in this oasis there is suddenly an abundance of flora and fauna that have been missing from the other arid areas we have visited. We are passed by flocks of Sierra finches - a beautiful yellow and green.
At one point we spot a young guanaco up on the ridge keeping an eye on us.
We stop briefly for water and nuts, sitting on some large flat rocks in the shade, and then continue to follow the tumbling stream.
We eventually clamber out over the blisteringly hot volcanic rock and climb up the track to where Juan and the truck are waiting with the table and chairs, complete with the picnic of lemonade, cheese, salami, olives and crackers. We relax in the chairs chatting and are then conveyed back to the hotel.
Bill slept for a while and then went to the market to get some fruit for lunch while Kathy cooled off in the pool. The hunter-gatherer returned with a bag full of ripe cherries, bananas, apples, oranges and peaches - yum!
The afternoon tour was with ‘Turistours’ again to visit ‘Moon Valley’. The bus arrived and today’s guide is George - alias a professional sandboarder! Today 4 clients in a 20 seater bus. The Vallee de la Luna is only 10 minutes from town. This valley is so named because it resembles the surface of the moon. It was formed by volcanic activity millions of years ago, and since then the rocks have been sculpted by the wind and atmospheric conditions to form sharp crests, pillars and curves.
There is an almost complete absence of animal and vegetable life because it is so dry. It is considered to be the most inhospitable corner of the earth.
The rocks are mostly reddish in colour but with stripes of white gypsum, clay and and other colours appearing in the strata. There are large chunks of salt crystals visible, like pieces of frosted glass, amongst the rocks.
We walk to some caves to observe the salt crystal formations, stalagmites and stalactites. The caverns are cool and shady and we duck down to walk through the tunnels, blue sky appearing through holes above our heads.
After this we drive through the length of the valley, past the mines and viewpoints to see Las Tres Marias - The Three Marys - rock formations of granite, clay and quartz, left after erosion of the softer surrounding rock. A short walk downhill takes us into the amphitheatre - surrouded by a cirque of red sedimentary cliffs. We then leave the park to visit a petroglyph. Not writing but a reproduction of a stone construction built by the indigenous people to indicate direction. It is supposed to represent a two headed fox but this is difficult to appreciate at ground level.
We then move to a viewpoint for the sunset, this is on top of a cliff overlooking moon valley.
The wind was whipping sand up from the valley below, shot blasting the expectant crowd. We moved to a sheltered spot and sat on some flat rocks overlooking the valley below. Their jagged peaks and cones looked even more spectacular as the setting sun deepened their red colour and cast long shadows. The sun set quickly behind the mountains, and after setting the golden colour spread along the western horizon. The effect was even more spectacular on the Andes volcanic range behind us which glowed a beautiful rose pink in the dying light.
As the sunset, cool dusk came quickly and we drove home.
Bills lurgy caught up with him and he retired early, whilst I set out to explore alone. It is amazing how much more you see and hear when you are alone. It’s a rare experience for me. I wandered through the streets of San Pedro and somehow got involved with a local religious festival. Dozens and dozens of locals were out in the street dancing. This was a strictly choreographed traditional routine. The religious icons and flags were being displayed and carried around and the dancers moved with them. Two girls dressed in white and silver, carrying whistles, lead the troop, followed (inexplicably) by twenty or so dancers in huge padded white polar bear suits. Most were carrying their helmets which had red and white flashing eyes. After the white bears come grey bears, a red fox and three huge black bears with monstrous heads and red flashing eyes. Their dancing was accompanied by the noisiest band I have ever heard. Four large drums, four smaller ones, a vast array of brass instruments and at least four pairs of cymbals.
Behind them was another band and another group of dancers, these dressed in colourful Chilean traditional dress with whirling skirts and exotic headdresses.
Everyone was out watching (except Bill) - locals throwing sweets and flowers, cheering and offering cold drinks to the dancers, and visitors taking photos and videos. I got pulled along with it all and covered in confetti.
I then had a solo supper - another unusual experience, and not altogether unpleasant!
After all that we remembered we needed an early night. Up at 4am tomorrow....