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I love Buenos Aires - it is pretty, it is vibrant, it is chic - and walking around the city gives me the impression of being in Paris. Thanks to Shannon's Must-Do list (my entire travel group is so grateful for these tips), we had a most enjoyable evening watching couples dance the milonga & tango at Maldita Milonga (which was a bar with a dance hall), accompanied by the excellent El Afronte orchestra. I had to adjust my sleeping patterns for this one night as the Argentinians start their dining at about 10pm and then proceeded to entertainment afterwards - so it was well past my bedtime when I went out, but it was well worth it!
The cemetery at Recoleta was an astounding maze of mausoleums, and is likened to a tiny city with its own streets with street names and unit numbers. The mausoleums are constructed to house generations of families - the older mausoleums in particular (dating more than a century ago) are elaborate and beautiful monuments. Evita Peron's coffin is housed in one of these mausoleums - hers was the only name I recognised; the others were of generals, doctors and other notable public figures.
La Boca is a cute but touristy neighbourhood, lined with colourful shops and street vendors selling souvenirs and handicrafts on cobbled pedestrian streets, and restaurants competing with each other to lure customers with outdoor tango performances - it had a very nice vibe.
I succumbed to temptation, and went way over my backpacker budget when I purchased a lovely leather coat and handbag (the leather goods are of good quality, and are such excellent value) - but my back is already protesting at the 20kgs that my backpack was already carrying, so I had them shipped home today. It was not without a bit of drama. There was a weight limitation at the local post office (bigger packages had to be sent from the central post office downtown) so the lady behind the counter helped me unpack the box and removed a lot of the redundant packaging. After she repacked everything neatly into a 2nd much smaller box, I confused the delivery address with sender address on the box (my Spanish was still not great obviously). The Post Office staff were so very patient and helpful as they helped me re-pack everything into the 3rd box! I kept the other post office customers amused as I went through one package after the next ... although I am sure the amusement rapidly turned to impatience, as I started all over again with the 3rd box.
I have been so utterly spoiled by the Briers over the last 4 days. They have been here for 2 years and live in a lovely home in the northern suburb or Martinez. What utter luxury - a huge room to myself, with views of the garden and pool, and having an attached bathroom with a bath!!! I did not realise how much I missed my creature comforts until I was curled up with a book on the sofa, sipping huge mugs of PG Tips (oh - and Lucy pulled me into the kitchen for a rare treat - Bird's Eye Custard, which I have not had since I left London 15 years ago!), and enjoying home cooking and Sunday roast. So comfortable am I that I decided to ditch my group's 20-hr bus trip, spend an extra night here, and paid for a 2-hr flight tomorrow to rejoin my group in Bariloche. Simon and Lucy must be getting worried that I am never going to leave .... . It was great to catch up with them after 7 years, and to finally meet Oliver - what a happy little boy. Well, thanks Simon & Lucy for your hospitality, and for pampering me here - it has been a very nice break in the journey!
Heidi and Stephanie dropped of the trip in Buenos Aires, as did Ursula; and we picked up 2 new lads: Amir (England) & Eddie (Brazil) plus our new tour leader, Martin (Argentina).
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