Once upon a time S-21, as it is now known, was a normal Phnom Phen high school. On first glance it could have yet still been so but in need of some big repairs but closer inspection revealing the use of barbed wire on most of the open passages began to tell the story that this was something different.

We were first taken to a lower classroom that contained a rusted bed frame and a farming tool. This was one of a few torture rooms where prisoners (innocent civillians) were taken and forced to reveal other family members and their location so they could also be abolished. This was the typical plot by Pol Pott's Khemer Rouge to ensure the whole family including babies were exterminated to prevent any future revenge attacks. Even if they did talk they were sent to the killing fiels, while a lot died during the torture. The Khemer Rouge claimed they were CIA and they needed to find out the secrets. A picture on the wall showed one of the remaining few prisoners as they were found mutilated by the farm tool. Around these rooms classrooms were converted to small cells around 1m by 0.75m. Prisoners were detained in these with no light and no toilet facility other than a box. On the first and second floors were more cells. The barbed wire there to prevent prisoners committing suicide. They knew their fate and could hear the constant torturing from below.

In other rooms, images of the victims and their number before and after they had been killed. These had been recovered from negatives left by the Khemer Rouge who were meticlous with their record keeping to show superiors. During the tour we found out our guide had been affected by the genocide, 3 million people were removed out of a 7 million population (so this is the norm in Cambodia). She had walked for 3 months with her mum on to the other end of the country fleeing the atrocity. She witnessed others dying of starvation on the roadside while in constant fear of being tracked down on the roadside. She lost her father and brother to the genocide. She talked us through some brutal pictures of barbarism and equipment. It was very moving to hear her talk and it was obvious she was still signficiantly affected. While Phnom Phen is being rebuilt physically, other wounds remain very exposed; Cambodia still only have 8 registered pyschiatrists in their country.

A day later we went to the killing fields (Cheung Ek) just outside Phnom Phen the largest of just under 400 mass graves in Cambodia. Prisoners of S-21 were taken here to be desposed of. We were firstly introduced to a Stupa (tower) housing thousands of skulls and bones found at the site. However this does not house every victim unfortunately. We walked through the fields and straight away we could see bones teeth jaws and old clothing appearing from the surface. This happens at the end of every rainy season as further sediment is removed by the water. We were then introduced to a tree. Nothing special seemed evident until we were told of its history. This was the killing tree where babies were flung against the tree by their heads and then thrown into the grave. Other similar stories were told, indeed the Khemer Rouge were even desposing of themselves as those that strayed from orders were made an example of.

It is still hard to understand how this young Khemer Rouge army typically 13-18 years old could carry out such barbaric acts against fellow humans. Why they did it? Well the threat of death essentially, but why were they instructed to do this. Pol Pott well educated in France had a dream of a communist revolution but first it required all those that would potentially resist (doctors, lawyers and teachers) to be taken care of. He died in 1998 under house arrest awaiting trial. Only one of his key subordinates has admitted wrong doing (a former monk). Others deny knowledge and still await trial, some 30 years after this 3 years of carnage. How can a group of educated people take beliefs to these extremes?