The night ferry to the mainland wasn't nearly as bad as many had described. On the lower deck Koh Samui at night was a eye opener illuminating the night even after we passed it 15 mins later. Trips to the toilet were also made interesting by shooting stars. Our plan in taking the night ferry was to arrive early enough at the National Park to maybe go on a small day trek or fit in an activity, maximizing our time. We'd made particular effort to ensure that our transfer to the National Park would be speedy, smooth with minimal fuss…..but this is Thailand. Speedy, smooth with minimal fuss; these words have not yet been translated into Thai. We are both certain of that.

On arrival at the port at a very blurry 5.30 am we were corralled like cattle with another 8 people and their luggage into the back of a flatbed pick-up truck and driven to an "office" down a couple of back streets and dumped along with a few more bewildered travelers into a waiting area/garden with a few benches, tables and chairs, mozzies, lizards and rats. 2 hours 35 protests and complaints later we were shipped off by Tuk Tuk to what we were told would be the bus. Only to find it was in fact another travel office on the corner of a busy main road. When the "bus" arrived, we were not surprised that it was actually another pick up truck that took us to…wait for it…the bus station!! At 10.00 am we finally boarded the bus to Khao Sok. All is forgiven British Rail.

Arrival at the National Park wasn't as early as we would have liked but with some recommendations in our pocket we set off with our seemingly helpful and friendly guide. We drove around to a few places, our guide having to negotiate some jungle tracks before deciding on a place to settle. Unbeknown to us Khao Sok was the site of a caving accident 2 months previous when a flash flood claimed the lives of 5 travelers. Our guide was one of the rescuers that day and proudly produced a newspaper clipping to back up his story. Eager to take us on tour he left us with his phone no. The Morning Mist jungle resort was to be our new home. Operated by Thai people unlike the rest of the accommodations we felt good putting some of tourist dollar their way. Another reason was the good reports of the Elephant camps that they use and with the afternoon to kill. We quickly found ourselves on the back of another pick up truck, but this time it was just the two of us and going somewhere we wanted.

The drive to the camps was filled with dramatic sights, scenery and sounds. The rainforest was everywhere. We knew that we would be amazed by the surroundings but we where really taken by the immense expanse of it all it seemed to go on forever. It felt good to be doing something completely different. When we made it to the camp We were in awe of it all.It was fantastic the elephants were allowed to roam free and it was clear that they were looked after and cared for. We had put off so many chances to ride elephants due to their care and well being, with many camps just using them as cash cows, working them to potentially early graves. So to see them like this we immediately felt great about spending our money and waiting so long. There seemed to be a mutual respect and deep bond between the mahouts and the elephants which made them seem like they where really enjoying themselves. We were straight on our elephant and off into the jungle!!! We walked through streams and down the side of a river and made our way to a small waterfall where we got off and watched as the elephants were bathed in the river by their mahouts cooling them down before making the return journey. The least we could do to thank our 4 wheel drive ride for the afternoon was buy some banana's which it quite happily devoured straight from our hands. As we reluctantly left we were treated to another moment; free of his saddle, our elephant was off into the river to be bathed once more, collecting water from the river and spraying over his back. One of the best experiences we'd had from our baht yet.