December 11-14, 2009- Pamplona, ES- Apartment of Jaione

Lovely Jaione, I still see her bright smile clear as day in my mind. A Navarra native who studied abroad in Cheboygan, MI, she has ties to old and dear friends of mine and excitedly agreed to host me without even a second thought. It was a night of misses, but despite the fact that I had major bus issues, making her have to go to the bus station several times at the station (during her exam study time) and that I had to contact her from an internet cafe in Pamplona (making her worrry) because I didn´t have a mobile- she remained unphased.

From that time on, she became to me the personification of happy-go-lucky.

The night I arrived, she immediately took me out for a beer and introduced me to amazing friends who offered to tour me around when she was in class. Everyone was so kind to speak English to me, even if they were afraid of their skills, and to make me feel at ease. I could see exam exhaustion on their faces but they remained as animated as ever, ahhhh to be a college student again..

The next day, her father picked us up and we went for a spectacular scenic drive North of Pamplona enroute to San Sebastian. I fell in love with Spain all over again as I discovered that the North was my perfect fit. With water, mountains, lush green foliage, village after village, lots of seafood, olives and, of course, top-notch wine- I felt in Heaven!

We stopped at a small village for the most amazing meal- something like scrambled eggs with shrimp and a seafood soup that was all savor and no smell. Topped off with the perfect Rose', it was a feast for my pallet- and Im not usually a gourmet kind of girl. For Spain, it seemed I could always make exceptions; you could have rolled out of the eatery like the Blueberry in Willy Wonka.

As evening began to set in, we arrived in San Sebastian and walked along the pier while the sun cast its last shadows over the perfectly posh city with the perfect pier for a seaside stroll. It was easy to see how this city could garner the most expensive price tag for rent in all of Spain. The relaxing resort vibe of the ocean, coupled with the metropolitain vibe minus the hustle and skyscrapers- a feat only Spain could accomplish. Walking down the pier led us to a interesting, yet organic looking sculptures by the sea, Piene de los Vientos- which made for a hard picture to get at night but one that was well worth the effort! Our tour then came to a close with a stroll down the lamp lit cobblestone streets of the old quarter.

Jaione's Father and I mostly had to translate through her, but all the same, there was a familiarity and gentleness to him that felt so close to home, and watching them together I knew just what it was- they reminded me of my father and I. Watching them interact- playful banter, songs in the car, walking arm-in- arm, I was reminded of my own connection- something that made me both smile and ache- something that made the day just that much more special.

The next day would be a full one roaming historical Pamplona, the city that got its fame from the Running of the Bulls. Taking the bridge across the park to the heart of the old city and of the Encierro (Running of the Bulls), I experienced my first snow in Spain. After a few hours I was a Spanish popsicle, but, no suprise here, could not be stopped on my mission to follow the route of the bulls and beyond. The narrow cobblestone streets lined with darkly shaded buildings almost felt like you were walking through caves, but some how it gave off more of a warm than forboding vibe- charming like the setting from the Christmas Carol. An odd comparison to make in Spain, perhaps, but it made me enjoy exploring every icy inch that day.

When I returned to her apartment and had sufficiently thawed, Jaione arranged for me to do some exploring outside of the city with her friend Gerardo who was so friendly in his eagerness to practice his English and learn more about North America (a hunting enthusiast which his heart set on Canada). There was not a moment of silence in that evening as we chatted away in the car and at our destinations- with snow sprinkles dusting our jackets. Seemingly in the middle of nowhere was our stop at the Eunate, a 12th century Roman Church with, legend-has-it, Templar ties (Dan Brown legend in the flesh folks!), then to the quenissential quaint village, Puente la Reina. I distinctly remember the words, ˝That is the main square?˝ coming out of my mouth- a peaceful and familiar sight for a small town girl from Michigan. Our night ended perfectly with coffee at the Pamplona Golf Club overlooking the city.

In just the span of a few days, I had a crash course introduction to some of the best the North of Spain had to offer, the people most noteably. Meals prepped by my lovely hostess, meetings with her teriffic friends and roommates, and conversations over pictures of her travels, she left me wanting to return to Pamplona again...maybe the Running of the Bulls in July? Or maybe I am always just looking for another excuse to return to Spain.

A smart-as-a-whip Biology student, I can only hope her internships and future education will bring her stateside so we can continue to be travel buddies on this amazing adventure we both call life.

Cheers,

Emily