Just found out that an American scuba diver was killed by a shark just off Rottnest Island the day after we visited the island. He was attacked by a Great White 500 metres off the coast in Thomson Bay where the main township is and ferries from Fremantle dock. Scary stuff - he was the 2nd person munched in a fortnight, a well known local man, Bryn Martin, had disappeared whilst swimming off Cottesloe Beach, Perth's main beach. All they found were his swimming trunks, the damage to them suggested a Great White attack.

Wednesday 28th Oct 2011

What a day!!! Woken up by 'phone at 6.25am! Bus waiting to take us to Kakadu. We thought we were leaving at 1.30pm!!!! Luckily we'd sorted our cases out & selected stuff to take into our backpacks! We were staying overnight at Aurora Kakado Resort but only allowed to take minimum of stuff needed for overnight stay. We were on the bus by 6.40am---- scowls from everyone!!!!!!!!!!!!!! On route we saw so much - -storks flying, magpie geese & goslings, Brolga birds flying - these are the largest flying bird in Australia, lots of egrets, Jabaroo bird with black & white plumage & red legs flying. We saw Bramman cattle which cope well with weather conditions in 'top end' & are also tick resistant. Exported to SE Asia particularly Indonesia. Didn't see any sadly but there are also water buffalo to be found here. They were heavily culled at one time as they were found to be carriers of TB & Brucellosis. Now present in large numbers & used for hide. Saw Wallabies also. saw spiral Penangs trees with edible fruits. There are also stone Penangs which are endemic to this region. We also saw red tailed black Cockatoos which are a threatened species.

Stopped at Warradjan Aboriginal cultural centre & learnt more about the Aboriginal way of life - -v interesting - tho' I can't help feeling sad at the same time that much of this has been destroyed.

From here we went to the Yellow Water Bilabong where we saw some more amazing wild life including several crocodiles, various types of King Fishers including the second smallest in the world, Jesus birds which appear to be able to walk on water, whistling ducks & different types of cormorants. We saw a flock of Brolgas birds - -huge long legged birds which do a dance!! Also fleetingly caught sight of red Finches. There were also banks of beautiful pink/red lillies. The leaves were huge & could be used as hats or vessels for carrying water.

From there we went to a restaurant where we had a lovely buffet salad lunch followed by fresh fruit.

Then it was back on the bus to see some Aboriginal rock painting at Norlangie region - -excellent examples. While there a Wallaby hopped by with its baby & seemed unfazed by us - -lovely.

Made our way then to our overnight stop, Aurora Kakado Resort Hotel - where there were loads of white cockatoos flying around and making lots of noise!! Many Magpie Geese on the ground. Nice accommodation --chalet type. Had a much needed swim in the pool - water so warm!!!!!

Shared a pizza for din with some chips & lager & wine. Food & drink v expensive here!! Off to bed now as we have an early start & quite a full day again tomorrow!

October 26th 2011

Picked up at 7.15am by Craig in a 4 x 4 truck. V V hard suspension - ouch!!! Driven to Jabiro region. On the way out we saw more white cockatoos - called Corollas here. Saw some beautiful red flowering trees called Royal Pointiannas. Craig took us for a - ride around Jabiro - this was originally a mining town - - mining Uranium. Uranium still being mined here by ERA which is a subsidiary of Rio Tinto Zinc. 17% of world's Uranium U3O8 (yellow cake) . This can only be exported for Energy production & not weaponry. Most is exported to France - a large consumer of uranium for Nuclear energy. The land belongs to the aboriginal people who were persuaded to allow mining by the promise of big cash amounts. Many weren't happy. Many Aboriginal people employed - -about 20% of work force. Also many women employed as drivers. Most miners on 12 on 12 off days; 3 weeks on 1 off. Mainly housed in airconditioned transportables. Mine at present open cast & has about 2 years left & then will start mining underground. At present huge hole in ground about 350m deep. Sulphuric acid is added to ore to dissolve minerals from stockpiles of waste and then neutralized with lime. Uranium here not radioactive until disturbed when it gives off Radon gas.

In town most houses v basic as inhabitants will never own the land they're on. Council decided to dam part of the river to make a lake for receation and beside it they built a chidren's playground. Unfortunately during next wet season the crocs moved in & are still in residence!! Playground still beside it too!!! 'OK Brucie you've been a really naughty boy today so I'm going to take you to the playground beside the lake!!' Coconuts growing on trees. Charles Darwin University.

Craig pointed out 'paper bark trees' which will only grow in areas which are at times submerged in water. V useful for wrapping etc. Aboriginals use them for a vast no of jobs described later. They were planted in Florida on a trial basis but failed dismally!! Wooly Butt trees - a type of Ecalyptus - trunks black at bottom , white at top. Soft wood inside eaten by termites. Aboribinals then use for making Digeridoos. These are made and decorated for ceremonies + often only used once as new ones made for next ceremonies! Women not allowed to play them. Only made in Aboriginal areas where Wooly Butt trees found. In the same way Aboriginals only use boomerangs for hunting in open grassland areas not in wooded areas. Spears used here. Spears made from 'Iron trees' --v v hard and sink when they hit water. Aboriginal culture varies according to region, environment, type of food available etc. Used to be 24 languages spoken in this region and 4 still survive. During the wet season 'spear grass' grows amongst the trees of the bush. In the dry season this grass dies off, this dry straw is highly inflammable so is burnt off by the aboriginals early in the dry season before there is build up of fuel on the forest floor. This are called cool fires which just burn off dry grass at ground level, hot fires occur later in the dry and cause serious damage to the canopy of the bush ie. the trees themselves get burnt.

Spotted red tailed black cockatoo in tree.

Trip to Ubbir

This is different terrain altogether with lots of rocks and water. All salt water crocks in this area. Can get up to 6m in length. Anything above 1.5m will attack humans. Fresh water crocks don't take large prey - mostly squirrel, fish, birds etc but we won't be putting that to the test no matter how hot we get!!

Cruise

We had an Aboriginal guide called Robbie for this cultural tour along the East Alligator river. Called this 'cos an early Dutch explorer had seen alligators in America & thought crocs were alligators & name has stuck

Tea tree leaves used to flavour dishes eg Baramundi.

Hibiscus spears, v light and floats

fire sticks men only allowed to make fire but women carry fire

string

flower turns from red to yellow and can then be used to treat stomach complaints

Grass like bamboo salt water crocks build nest from this & sticks. lays 50 - 80 eggs. Looks after young for about 3 weeks but then the young become prey for other animals. Survival rate low.

? Pendulous roots- chewed and used as a paint brush

use to make raft covered with paper & tied with plant string

grind fruit into powder & scatter on the water. It blocks fish gills & these come to the surface where they can be scooped out by hand. In a few hours the fish recover & return to normal

Jim Jim floats & is used for rafts & boats

We saw a beautiful White breasted Sea eagle sitting in a tree overhanging river. Had another smaller brown bird with it ???? chick.

Robbie took us ashore on Arnhem land -Aboriginal land- -usually need to apply for permission to do this. He showed us how to throw spears & threw two right across river. He also spoke to us about Aboriginal law and punishment. If a person breaks the law once they get a spear stabbed into the lower leg. This spear has barbs in it and cannot be removed until the flesh around it has become infected (about 3 weeks) Yaicks - you wouldn't forget to pay for parking after that would you?? If they break the law again they get the spear treatment again but this time in the thigh. Break the law a third time and the spear goes through the chest - caput!

On the road home the driver spotted a beautiful frilled lizard on a tree. He pulled over and as he approached (on foot) the lizard moved away around the tree before eventually climbing right up. Apparently these lizard run on their hind legs! Puts us in mind of 'Jurassic Park'!

On the way back to Darwin - (Novotel again but not a suite sadly!!) it was obvious that a lot of rain had fallen which we had missed. The driver stopped at 'View of the wetlands' where fresh fruit, cheese and biscuits & lovely red & white wines had been provided for us while we watched the sunset. Sadly the cloud cover prevented us seeing the full glory of this. Apparently in this area of Australia ( NT) when the sun touches the horizon it sets within 72 seconds!! Get the wine drinking done speedily!!

October 29th 2011

Excursion to Lichfield

Picked up at 7.15am from Novotel)! Len our driver talked a little about Darwin as he drove through. Good for us as we're not going to be able to see much of it as we're too busy doing excursions and tomorrow we're off to Alice Springs on the Gahn!

He pointed out Parliament House - -a white building referred to locally as the wedding cake - full of nuts and fruits pickled in liquor!!! Bit like our Tory government I s'pose!

Darwin Harbour - shallow water harbour- largest natural harbour in Australia, called the 'Duck Pond', 'cos when they were digging it out they ran out of time & the wet season hit them & it rapidly became a haven for water birds.

Charles Darwin National Park although Darwin never actually went to Darwin but the Beagle visited in 1839 under Capt Stokes & crew decided it should be called port Darwin. Stokes & Darwin made a good team cos Stokes was a botanist. Darwin became unpopular & 1st residential community was called Palmerston. Later renamed Darwin.

Darwin has been destroyed 4 times 3 times by cyclones and once by war.

Heading out to Palmerstone there is little change in flora. Springs area gave rise to 1st reticulation system but now most people have own boreholes.

Rural area

Water pipes either side of the road. NT consumes 2x more water than WA.

WW2 airstrip to left hand side. Darwin was heavily bombed by the Japanese early in WW2 and to better defend the city 12 airstrips were quickly built alongside the Stuart highway, which itself had only just been constructed. Many are still visible - we stopped at one where actual size templates of aircraft were positioned. The first fighters deployed were American Curtis Wright Wildcats but the arrival of British Spitfires sorted out the problem, they were a better match for the Jap Zeroes!

Mango trees on right. Humpty Doo!!!!!!!!!!! ( I would love to have this as my address!!!) is fruit bowl for NT & also large market garden industry. Vegetables grown under shade cloth.

Noonamar

1st fuel stop on way out of Darwin. Road train companies for transporting cattle.

Airstrip for defense against Japanese during WW11. In 1943 Spitfires arrived. Now named Strauss in honour of Capt Strauss killed in action.

Vegetation Psychoheads?????? v slow growing

Sand palms

Manton dam at Manton river

Magnetic termite mounds NS orientation (6-9 degrees of magnetic north) so always have cool side. This termite does not bury underground as opposed to termite that makes cathedral mounds 2/3rds of which are under the ground.

Batchelor

Came into being in 1911. Experimental farms - research into grasses - trying to find/produce grass that would withstand conditions in NT and could be cut and baled for livestock. Lack of support meant they ceased.

Airfield here with bombers during WW11 but after cessation of hostilities Navy moved in. Then came push to find uranium. Government offered reward of £12,000 to anyone who could find a source of uranium. Guy called White showed them where they could find lots of Uranium but government refused to pay on premise that he already knew of the source. Case went to court & White won & Gov forced to pay money. Wife still lives in area!

Spun concrete poles (Australian invention) carry electricity to mines in Rum Jungle 1952-1971. In 1971 broke into water table & flooded mine. Water was black colour by 1973 & v uninviting! Original mine was left & termites got rid of most of buildings. Now mining for gold, copper, titanium and beryllium.

Trees

Sandalwood, mahogany & other exotic timbers. Research goes on to see which grows the fastest while retaining its characteristics.

Spiral Pendennis - -look like screws!!

Burnett homes built on stilts with louvre windows floor to ceiling.

White flowering Frangipanni trees & others with cascading yellow flowers v much like our Laburnums. Also some pines which are poisonous to termites!! Model of Castle in cast iron painted blue. By homesick pomme - - name escapes me!!

Story behind the name 'Rum Jungle'. In 1870's there was a jetty at Southport (!!!!!!) for freight. Horse & Carts in those days, 'cos no bridges carts would get bogged down. 3 carts got to Finnies river and got bogged down. Thunderstorm caused horses to run away. Carts carried barrells and in those days guys couldn't read nor write so took some of liquid from a barell with the intention of topping it up with water at a later date. Liked taste and when they were found several days later the horses had returned but the men were in a poor way due to intoxication from Rum!!

Red flame trees with huge seed pods. Sometimes called 'Rattle trees' cos pods rattled and Mums would take them for babies. When they got broken replaced them from trees.

Saw Kukkaburra on telegraph lines - pretty cute - looks like normal bird that's been subjected to pressure from above!!! Related to our Kingfishers.

Lichfield NP

Sandstone 'table top' bounded by 2 rivers. Water falling on top soaks through sandstone in Aquafers ??. Water in river & falls through out year. Lichfield was an explorer not an academic but learnt his craft well. He came up with Finnes who had no 'people skills'. They camped at Southport then moved to a fort at ---------------- penninsula. 2 of Finnes' men interfered with Abo women & were killed. Finnes ordered his men to go & kill the 'black b******s' (not my words!). Word got out (from Lichfield supporters) that this was going to happen & cos Finnes was not popular only two incapacitated men were captured. All other Abo's had gone into hiding. Lichfield saved several people from serious trouble. He also indicated where several precious minerals could be found. On his return to Adelaide Finnes was arrested & court marshalled. Some of his supporters tried to blame Lichfield & tried to discredit him but the inquiry showed that he'd done his job well.

Crocodile called 'Sweetheart' had a dislike of 'Tinnies' - small metal fishing boats - & used to drag motors and upturn boats. Not popular so Rangers decided to relocate him. They tranqulized him & put him in a sling. However, he slipped out of sling & v v sadly drowned. Now stuffed and on display in Lichfield.

Termite mounds

Cathedral and magnetic. Grow about 1m every10 yrs. Some could be 200 yrs old. Not ants but related to Cockroaches. Workers are white & blind. Cathedral mounds like icebergs - -only 1/3rd visible - rest underground. Termites eat more grass than any animal on the planet. Queen likes moss & heating & cooling seems to encourage moss growth. Ants are around but not part of termite colony just allowed to share the mound. Red ants are carnivorous and try to get into mounds to eat the termites.

The Table Top

Florence Falls

Fabulous walk down many steps to beautiful falls and plunge pool. Walked back along 'shady creek' along the riverside. V hot 36 degrees C & 100% humidity!! Phew - hard going!! At top temp 38 degrees & 78% humidity.

Tolmer Falls (300 m)

Water source only from underground. Largest drop in Lichfield Park. About 6 years ago could swim here but Rangers wanted it closed cos caves behind falls were home to the Orange Horseshoe bat and the Ghost Bat. The Orange bat is v sensitive to temperature when at rest & these caves provided perfect conditions.

Lost city - accessable by 4 WD only. Wangi - -Abo women's business area - men not allowed. Made of testilated sandstone.

In 1995 Tipperary Cattle station gave this land to government ,cos cows used to walk/fall into waterways and cause pollution. City folk left gates open etc so forever searching for cattle. 137 Hectares given and became Litchfield National Park. Thin layers of compressed and sedimentary sandstone. As we drive off the 'table top' we can see Mt Litchfield - 300m!! only 'cos made of sandstone like most in NT.

Wangi Falls.

Huge plunge pool. Falls known as fertility falls. Can look directly at these rather than down at them. Absolutely beautiful pool with water falls. Took a walk through Monsoon Forest. Saw several big black bats (about the size of a frozen chicken) hanging from the trees. These fly about 50K every night. On the path was an enormous web with a Golden Orb spider in the centre!!!!!!!! Saw a Fungus growing on the ground in the shape of a beautiful flower. Very, very hot & humid.

On the way back to Darwin stopped to get an ice cream at a cafe. They had 2 tame wallabies who allowed themselves to be picked up. Aparently their Mum had been knocked over on the road & the 2 babes were found in the pouch & rescued.

October 29th

Ghan

Picked up from Novatel at 7.30am. The Ghan station is 20 km outside Darwin so we had a coach tour of the city picking up from other hotels before driving out to the train. On arrival at the station our check-in luggage was weighed(20kg limit otherwise off load into 2nd bag - Health and Safety issue) and then the coach took us to our carriage - our train was 18 carriages long some are 40! Shown to our cabin, K13/14, very nice, recently refurbished, comfortable seats which convert to bunks, also ensuite WC/shower. Train left on time at 0900. Soon out in the bush - trees and scrub for miles and miles and miles and miles and ................. No signs of habitation. Occasionaly sighted some Brahman cattle, these basically look after themselves in the bush and get rounded up once a year for export mainly to Indonesia. Cattle stations are big here, 10's of 1000s of hectares. Its like saying " my farm is not in Lancashire it IS Lancashire!"

About 12.45 we arrived in Katherine, a small cattle town in the middle of the bush. Typical small Aussie town, neat main street and rest of town very spread out. Lots of Aboriginals sat about in small groups in the shade talking and drinking - big problem apparently. We had rashly decided to visit the Katherine Gorge - a series of spectacular gorges about 25 km out of Katherine - everything in Oz is at least 20 km away or more usually 200km away. Arrived at gorge at 1345pm, very hot --- 37 C at the visitor centre. Pete decided it would be a good idea to walk up to the look out above the river, a walk described as being of moderate difficulty. What we didn't realise was that temperatures on the escarpment were more like 45 - 47 C - bloody hot! We just about got up to the viewing point and back - close thing (should have been warned I think) though bit dehydrated when we got back - water is not my preferential tipple but I am drinking a lot of it these days! Then coach back to the Ghan, showers, and then a champagne reception! 8pm was dinner time, we had a very good 3 course meal, main course being fillet steak. Whilst we were eating the crew set up the bunks in our compartment, so after dinner we were put to bed in bunks - v comfortable.

October 30th 2011

Woken at 7am by coffee in bed! Breakfast at 8.15 - full Australian. Met a lovely couple (owned a caravan site in Broome) who were concerned that Quantas had just grounded its whole fleet + they had plans to fly to Sydney.

Picked up by mini bus (only passengers) from Tailormade Travel & taken to Aurora Hotel in Alice Springs. Accom Ok - a bit 'tired'. Local market day today (Sunday) strange as a lot of places were closed, so took a stroll through. Great atmosphere. Cool & drizzling slightly. Nice & cool for us - 18 degrees C . Never thought I'd say that!!

Sadly many Aboriginal people sitting around on the ground. They seem to be on the periphery of society. Many women wandering around barefoot.

Shared Pizza & chips for lunch in hotel restaurant after trip to find sandwiches drew a blank. Walked to Botanic Gardens - interesting native plant species. Most drought & fire tolerant. So many different species of Eucalyptus. Also Acacias - the national flower of Australia - yellow flowers - which is why Aussie teams etc wear yellow & green.

Gardens very much result of work of Miss Olive Pink who arrived in Alice in 1930 thus beginning a 45 yr connection with central Australia. Her passion for social Justice for Aboriginal people led her first into an anthropological research career & then into a protracted politcal campaign to establish a sanctuary for tribal Warlpiri people in the Tanami Desert. She is a legendary figure in Alice & in 1972 at the age of 72 was successful in having the "Australian Arid Regions Flora Reserve" gazetted. Olive Pink Botanic Garden was opened to the public in 1985 & there are now over 400 Central Australian plants represented within the garden including 30 rare or threatened species.

Walked up Annie Myers hill. Great panorama over Alice & more native plants. Told the Wallabies would appear around 5 o'clock but by 5.30 there was no sign so walked back to hotel. Booked table for 7.30 and had Tapas feast with free bottle of McWiiliams Shiraz. Yum! In bed for 10.10pm !!! Getting into the Aussie way of life - -early bed & early start!

October 31st

Slow start for once had cereal in room then a wander through to local Woolworths to buy rolls & cheese for lunch as eating in cafes is v expensive. Very cold today, only 22 C, overcast looks like rain.

Just read in the paper that the Litchfield Cafe, near Wangi Falls, that we had lunch in on Friday was struck by lightning that night and completely destroyed - fortunately nobody hurt but the famous cheesecake is now served toasted!!

Picked up at 1:30 and it's pouring!!Unheard of out here and not v warm either & we had to wear our fleezes. Normally 35 - -36 & beating sun. Our guide is Geoff. He took us on a mini tour of Alice Springs. The Todd River was perfectly dry but they have boat races which involves running with boats which have no bases and so they're held up around the waist!! This is a fund raising event and must be hilarious to watch!!

We then visited the Aboriginal Art and Culture Museum which had v interesting exhibits, paintings and information charts.

We then visited The Flying Doctor Centre. This was especially interesting as we used to watch progeamme on TV called 'The Flying Doctor' when we were kids!

The School of the Air was our next stop. This was set up in order to educate children who lived in remote areas. This was originally made possible by the invention of 'pedal power radios'. Now, of course, the internet is used.

Our next stop was at the Telegraph Centre.

　

Finally we stopped at the ANZAC memorial.