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As free internet has become something of a luxury since leaving Hanoi we have a lot to cover in this latest blog entry. So in order to stave off the possibility of this sending you into a deep sleep we suggest a large caffine based drink to help you reach the end of this latest blog......
We start our round up from where we began our trip all those weeks ago. After 5 days in Hanoi, we flew back to Bangkok on Asia's own version of Easy Jet, Air Asia. Despite a total flight time of under 2 hours, James impressively managed to sample the inauspicious cuisine. Touching down in Bangkok we were disappointed to have left the light drizzle and pleasant 10 degree temperatures in Hanoi to find ourselves in a swealtering 38 degree heat. In such an inhospitable climate we did what any Brit would do and find solace in the nearest air conditioned branch of KFC. Despite only entering the building to take refuge from the heat, we felt that as a gesture of good will and in order not to appear rude, we would sample some of the food. An hour later, and after a total of 7 KFC value meals between us we ventured back out into the blistering Bangkok heat, thankful that we had managed to avoid the hottest part of the day. During our last visit to Bangkok we focused mainly on the temples and the backpackers area of Kho San Road. With a few hours to spare before leaving for Koh Samui, we ventured out to downtown Bangkok and Chinatown. One of the highlights was venturing up to a rooftop bar in the Crown Plaza Hotel where we found spectacular views of the city. Upon the recommendations of one particular anonymous individual back in the UK, we visited Pat Pong, an interesting place! After our little wander, we decided to get the Bangkok metro back to Bangkok central station in time for our planned train to Suratthani. Air conditioned, spacious and clean, this subway system reminded us so much of our beloved tube system back home.
Our train down to Suratthani was not quite so pleasurable, taking 12 hours with just a fan and a pack of mosquitos for company. We made it just in time to catch our bus and boat to Koh Samui where we checked into a traditionally named local hostel, iBed. This was merely a stop over though on our way to Koh Phangan for the full moon party so we didn't see much of the island itself.
Having left booking a hostel in Koh Phangan a little too late, we allowed some friends of ours we met in Nha Trang to book us into their hostel which still had some room. Haad Gruad Beach Resort and Spa sounded like a nice place so after managing to get a room booked there we had a quick look at reviews on Trip Advisor which ranked it as the 69th best place to stay in Koh Phangan out of only 71 hotels on the island. Arriving at the resort we were pleasantly surprised by what we saw. Our room had air conditioning and 3 beds for James, Dave and Matt (another friend from Nha Trang) and a foam mat in the corner for Ant. Having lost a game of RPS (Rock, Paper and Scissors), our designated decision making tool for the duration of our trip, Ant had to make to with this remaining "bed". Having been impressed at first with Haad Gruad, we went to the hotel beach. After passing the green and murky water of the hotel swimming pool, we found ourselves at the beach that was littered with stones, rocks and stray dogs who would pass the time by fighting each other. Having decided against a rabies jab, all dogs have been transformed in our minds from cute and loyal pets, to evil and devilish creatures of death. We were starting to realise why this place was rated so badly! A few hours later, Sarah and Vicky, the two Geordies who had booked the hotel for us arrived with a gaggle of 5 other Geordie 'lasses'. After the overcoming the language barrier that exists between Newcastle and the Home Counties, we headed to the nearby Haad Yao beach for dinner. Despite rather average food, it was a lovely spot and we were able to find out that there was more to Koh Phangan than bad hotels and full moon parties.
The following day we spent preparing ourselves for the evening's entertainment, the world famous Full Moon Party. After a few drinks at the hotel we jumped on the back of the hotel's pick up truck for the 45 minute journey to Haad Rin beach and the Full Moon Party. It's safe to say the party was one hell of an experience as the pictures will show. After a good 9 hours of partying on a beach with upwards of 10,000 people and sampling the local cocktails, lovingly served in a small plastic bucket, the sun rose to reveal the beach littered with bodies, bottles and buckets. We returned to the resort at 9.30am, safe in the knowledge that we thought we had a good night. The following day consisted of little more than sleeping, eating and arguing. The first two were most agreeable but the third was a bad end to our indifferent stay in Haad Gruad. After saying our farewells to the "dead canny" geordies, we attempted to pay the bill before our 6am departure to Koh Phi Phi the following day. What stood in our way however, was the charming German manager going by the name of Jaco. At approximately 10.32pm local time, we approached Jaco with the intention of paying our bill by the well known and founded method of banking card. Our offered was rebuffed and he insisted on us paying by cash. Fair enough. All we asked was for a taxi ride to the nearest ATM, which was about an hours walk away or a 5 minute drive. Jaco then went wacko. We were informed in the most charming manner possible for an angry German that the resort effectively "shut down" at 10.30pm and that a taxi would not be possible. After gently poking him with the news that if we did not get a taxi ride we would not be able to pay up, he very helpfully told that Haad Gruad was not in fact a 5 star hotel, a fact that Ant in particular had struggled to grasp during his wonderful 3 day stint on a 1 inch thick foam mat. Eventually the situation seemed to sink into his thick skull and he offered us a taxi for double the price which he retracted after a tirade of abuse from the english trio. On return, we expected to be paying Jaco, but were told that the safe was locked and that payment would have to be made to the taxi driver the following morning, a man who would be bereft of change. With that settled, the next day without further mishap, we headed for Koh Phi Phi, our alternate destination after being unable to get a ferry to Koh Tao.
Phi Phi was a tourist haven. White sandy beaches, crystal clear water and incredible scenery along with a good party scene. On our first full day, we booked onto a boat trip around the island of Koh Phi Phi Leh which included visiting 'Monkey Beach', Maya Bay and Pilet Bay where we were able to going snorkeling. Our first stop was Monkey Beach which, to our shear amazement, was littered with monkeys. The highlight of the tour was stopping at Pilet Bay for snorkeling. The number, variety and colour of the fish as well as being able to get so close to them was incredible. We ended our trip by visiting Maya Bay, the place where they filmed the movie 'The Beach'. Despite the number of tourists, it was still a awesome sight, an isolated cove flanked by 2 imposing limestone karst headlands. After another night, we headed for Railay Beach, near Krabi on the Thai mainland, a place only accessible by boat. Railay was another impressive place. Being based on a penisular, there was an east and west coast to Railay, no more than a kilometre apart. We were based in Yaya Resort on the east/budget side, whose beach consisted of wild mangroves. The west however, had a stunning beach with scenery to match. It was here that we decided on eating on the first night, Dave's Great Mackerel and Ant's Barracuda needing a special mention. James had lasagne. The following day we again headed for the Railay West where we embarked on our second kayak ride of the holiday, although this time all in an a 2 and a half man kayak and we would be going it alone. After a solid and steady 50 yards, we realised that the skills we had acquired on the calm and tranquil waters of Halong Bay may not be quite enough. Battling through the towering waves, choppy seas and James' attempts at sabotage, we struggled to stay dry. After an hour of visiting caves and isolated beaches we headed for the safety of shore, relieved that our traumatic ordeal was at an end. Joking apart, it was great fun.
After another brief stay in one location, it was time to head to Krabi for one night in order to catch our flight to Kuala Lumpur. If you have made it this far, congratualations on not falling asleep. We will endeavour to post more regular updates in the future so that we won't have to put you through an ordeal such as this again.
Ant, Dave and James
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