After 3 days in Nha Trang and nursing our sunburnt skin, it was time to move north to Hoi An. Following our unpleasant bus trip to Nha Trang we decided to take what we thought would be the more comfortable option of a sleeper bus. As we boarded the bus we were confronted by rows of coffin like bunk beds with only enough leg room to satisfy local stature. Following the most uncomfortable nights 'sleep' of our lives we arrived in Hoi An at 5.30 am.

As we were unable to check in to our hotel until the afternoon, we dumped our bags in the luggage storage and went for a walk around the town. Unlike many of the other cities we had visited, Hoi An had a much more intimate and friendly feel to it. Instead of offering us sunglasses, guide books or massages the locals where happy to offer a simple "Good Morning". It was only later, once the shops had opened that we realised Hoi An had not escaped the tourist baiting culture. Hoi An is the Vietnamese capital of cheap tailored suits, knock off designer clothes and the place you can get any conceivable item of clothing copied and made for you. With over 300 tailors to choose from competition was fierce, and we were easy targets. Intregued by the prospect of a tailored 'Armarni' suit for $100 we took the bait and ventured into a couple of the fine establishments. Despite the plethora of silk, cotton, cashmere and even the option of having the Watford badge emblasened onto the lining, after a nice cold coke to clear our heads we resisted the urge to part with our hard earned cash and instead decided to explore the town on foot. We found a charming town, with streets lined with chinese lanterns, full of history and characher. After all that culture and attempted shopping we decided to follow the footsteps of another 3 entrepid explores, Messers May, Hammond and Clarkson. After a hour of intense negotiation with two ruthless Vietnamese ladies at the headquarters of Hoi An Motorbike adventures we were happy to leave unscathed and having paid the full list price for the tour.

Key to our negotiations was securing the services of the highly recommended tour guide, Deano, whos reviews on trip advisor were unrivaled. When we arrived at the offices the next day we were greeted by Deano, a long haired, well travelled Aussie and his team of drivers, Mr Yan, Mr Lee and A. N. Other, whose bikes we would be riding on the back of. On our way out of town, we visited a Cham temple and a former US war base. We then followed small country tracks around rural villages and rice fields around Danang, a fascinating experience as we were able to get off the well trodden tourist path we had been on for the rest of out time in Vietnam. We then headed up the steep slopes of the Son Tra peninsula, otherwise known as Monkey Mountain before taking a spectacular, and slightly hairy road that snaked around the mountain that offered stunning views of the sea, China Beach, Danang, the Hai Van Pass and the Truong Son range. At the top of the mountain we enjoyed one of the best meals weve had on our travels, a glorious ham and cheese roll before looping around the other side of the mountain and returing back to Hoi An via the coast road and a bloody big Budda. Before our return we vistied the Marble Mountain and Hell's Cave before a well deserved beer at a beach bar called Hoa's Place where we first discovered Deano' appreciation for alcohol, more of which to follow! Despite the elevated price, we thought it was well worth spending the money as it was one of the most enjoyable days of our tour so far.

Following 2 days in Hoi An we had a short and comfortable bus ride to Hue (pronounced by the locals as Whey!) Soon after arrival we realised that Hue was a fairly mundane and characterless city, somewhat summed up by our 2 highlights, consisting of a pedalo ride aboard a magnificent swan and a fine banquet in KFC. One further highlight was the quality of our hostel, whose policy of free beer between 5pm-6pm was very well received and exploited to the full. After an evening of drinking, we literally stumbled upon a familiar face we had only seen 24 hours before. His shaggy mane was unmistakable, the great Deano had returned, and this time he came armed with our Hue hostel owner Hendo, whose favourite tipple was none other than an Arse flavoured shot. Even though our evening was an enjoyable one, we were glad to leave Hue after just one day.

Having sufferred under the intense heat in Asia thus far, we were thrilled to arrive in Hanoi to moderate temperatures and light drizzle. After again arriving in the small hours of the morning, we decided to make the most of the weather and head out to the Ho Chi Minh mausoleum and museum for some light entertainment. Despite the sight of the pickled dictator, providing us with mild interest, the experience was completely underwhelming. We were intrigued to find out more about this heroic individual so we wandered over to the museum which, despite having 2 floors dedicated to him, impressively it managed to provide no constructive information about his life.

Having spent the last 3 days in fairly uninspiring surroundings, we were well rested and excited at the prospect of our 2 day Halong Bay tour. Arriving at Halong Bay we boarded the Jolly Roger, a name we would later find out to be particularly apt. 3 hours after leaving the port we were surrounded by the spectacular giant limestone karsts of Halong Bay. We were offered the opportunity to take a plunge in the freezing cold waters which proved unpopular with all but the most mentality unstable. One of these exceptions was a middle-aged dutch thrill seeker who is the subject of a number of pictures available for your pleasurable viewing in the Vietnam album. After turning down this offer, we had the option to go kayaking around the bay which we duely and quickly excepted. On the kayak adventure, our guide took us to see a large cave and a floating fishing village which was a fantastic experience and undoubtably the highlight of the trip so far. After the kayaking, we were encouraged to change into our "evening wear" for the nights entertainment. This consisted of copious amounts of alcohol and the largest and most bias game of ring of fire we had ever seen. This was followed by a 'disco' and some of the worst dancing we had ever witnessed. After a stone cold omlette and bacon breakfast we headed back to shore and back to our hostel in Hanoi.

After a well needed chill out day today, we got ourselves organised for our flight to Bangkok tomorrow morning and reflected on a great time in Vietnam.

Ant, Dave and James