Some of the things you forget are easy to replace, some are expensive like a computer cables and some can be just painful like your yellow fever cards left in the car in Durban. We spent the morning trying to print out copies so we could get into Zambia, having got Elsje to send them on to Lusaka, only to find after a morning of internet cafes and hotel receptions that we didn't need them until we entered Tanzania.

We decided to take the Kazangula ferry (R220 per vehicle) as opposed to going through Zimbabwe's Vic Falls which proved a good decision as we were the only car waiting for the ferry and mid-day is apparently the best time to cross. Entry into Zambia is very expensive - about R1000 payable in five fees (including the ferry). The trouble with African borders is that nobody can help you (after years working at a place they won't know what the other counter does) other than the thieving, money lending touts, and lunch times can be fairly flexible. We waited only an hour for a lady to return unapologetically from lunch at 14:30 (R300 carbon tax - Zambia's going green on my 4.2l diesel!) and got through everywhere else without hassle.

Looking for accommodation in Livingstone we found a place out of town on the gorge, recommended on the 4x4 Community Forum. It's a 11km drive on a 4x4 track out from the falls but it was epic. It's owned by a South African, Faan Fourie, who on arrival apologised for their pump breaking and due to no hot water (they did give us buckets) we stayed for free ($30- yes please!) and got a free drink with him when we arrived. There is a lodge with very rustic but charming chalets but we camped where they have three individual campsites with personal toilet blocks, they light a fire for you, give you a guard at night - it was really excellent. And the views over the gorge were fabulous, reminding us of Oribi, with the river pumping below. You would normally see the white water rafters but the water level was so high most are no longer operating as it's too much of a fast boat ride. It was a cold night, made good by braaiing lamb chops and eating Joey's beer-bread!