The first 30km took us 3 hours to get out of Dar Es Saalam. It is another ridiculous situation where there is one road in and out and only a single carriageway for all the trucks and busses that have to chug along out of the city in the morning. We left at 7 and joined a long queue for the ferry. Michael and Daniel, the students we'd met the night before, told us if they built a bridge across the harbour it would change so many things: all the rich would build ...

There is a time difference in Tanzania - an hour ahead and so with the late start we get after camping and setting our watches only in the morning we were on the road at 10. This stretch of Tanzania is at high altitude and very arid, very different from the lush ascent from Malawi. I've decided we're playing Cops and Robbers, I'm just trying to work out who are who on the road! We were stopped by the police 5 times and had to talk our way out of 3 fines ...