Hi there,

I'm now back in Thailand and on the island of Koh Phangan. Its a beautiful island with lots of remote beaches. Its a crying shame that its been raining here for the last few days. I have so many photos to upload, I'm just waiting for a internet cafe that has fast speed. Here's the Cambodian update......

SEIN REAP, CAMBODIA.

I was somewhat anxious flying on 'Lao' Airways, just before I got on, I was informed that the British Government advised people not to fly with them! Their saftey standards are not their greatest strength, ie, no lifejackets, people talking on moblie phones, children sitting on parents knees etc. I had to laugh when someone enquired about the lack of lifejackets, the flight attendant just smiled and told him to hold onto the seat! I was glad that I was flying over land. My flight was thankfully uneventful. I'd met a guy, Chris, from New Zealand and a girl, Anne from Holland. We shared a taxi from the airport and travelled together for a few days. The cambodian people are very friendly, I have a great fondness toward them. There are so many people with ampetitated limbs who want to live with dignity. It has profound effect on you. They don't beg and they survive on selling books, postcards etc. The children are remarkably sharp, they will ask you what country you're from and then tell you the capital. They know every capital in every country! They are so charming, even when you don't buy their postcards, bracelets etc. The food was food beautiful, the local khmer food was so good, I couldn't stop eating it. It was also very cheap. My favourite dish was 'Amok fish'.

All the tourists and travellers in Sein Reap are there to see Cambodia's spiritual and cultural heartbeat, the Temples of Angkor.....

The Temples of Angkor.

Oh my god, these temples are truly spectactular and they have been added to the highlights of this trip. Everywhere you look you are amazed the intricate, delicate stone work, the magnitude of them and the sheer brillance of the imagaination. We were there at dawn each day. Nothing prepares you for the spine tingling moment of when you first approach Angkor Wat, the largest temple. We visited many temples but three  in particular have left me with wonder and amazement.

Angkor Wat :  Its an imposing temple and its magnitude will never cease to amaze you. The central temple complex consists of three storeys which enclose a square surrounded by intricate, interlinked galleries of stone. The corners of the second and third storeys are marked by towers rising 30-50m. I found a tranquil quiet corner, to the feel the breeze, to take in the views and comtemplate the symmetry and symbolism of what I could see.

Angkor Thom : This is a city that has 5 monumental gates, rising over 20m and they're decorated with stone elephants. The city encloses Bayon Temple, the Baphoun, the Royal Enclosure and the Terrace of Elephants. I took so many pictures. The Elephant Terrace was over 600m long and covered with incrediable, detailed stonework.

Ta Prohm: This had to be my favourite temple because its where the ancient world and nature meet as one. Its different to all the other temples, its been left to be shallowed by the jungle. Ta Prohm is a temple of towers, close court yards and long corridors. Many corridors are clogged with piles of intricate carved stone, dislodged by long decayed trees. The bulging walls are carpeted by lichen, moss and creeping plants. Its very atmospheric and leaves you with lasting impressions facination and wonder.

PHNOM PENH

This a city full of extremes of poverty and excess. Its poverty is haunted by its voilent history, in fact everything is haunted by it. The excesses can be seen in the 'Great Palaces'. Travelling around the city was done on the back of a bike. The only protection I had, was my sun cream and sunglasses. The traffic is obscene. There were hundreds and hundreds of motor bikes, they moved like schools of fish. I visited the Royal Palace & Silver Pogoda, the National Museum, The Toul Sleng Museum (detention centre) and the Killing Fields. The Toul Sleng Museum and Killing Fields had a deep profund effect upon me. They left me sober, sombre, speechless and hollow. There are images that have been etched into my mind forever. I wept as I walked around the Killing Fields. 8895 men, women and children were murdered there.  The 'Toul Sleng'  Museum was a detention centre. Between 1975 and 1978,    17,000 people were brutally tortured. It is a testament to the crimes of the Khmer Rouge. I don't want to write about what I saw only that it was shocking and it darkened my spirit. Everone who walked out of there, left with a grim face and heavy heart. It is the most depressing place I have ever been to.

I have a great respect for the Cambodian people and their spirit because they are warm, loving and filled laughter. Their dignity truly humbles you.

Well, that's it for me. Its finally stopped raining. Time for me to retire to my little bungalow, lay on my hammock and finish my book. There was a tremendous storm last night, the thunder and lightening was amazing. The thunder 'boomed' right across the bay and the lightening lit up the whole sky.

Take care as always.

love Annie