June, Hazel & I set off to circumnavigate Kerrera Island by hoof, 9 miles, and 1mile extra to/from the Oban ferry.
Kerrera, until 1266 belonged to Norway, along with all other islands off Scotland's northern & western coasts.
Horseshoe Bay, south of the jetty was where, in 1249, Alaxander II, King of Scotland died leading an army against the Hebrides, & in 1263 , King Haakin of Norway's fleet were defeated by the Scots, under Alexander III at the 'Battle of Largs', which ensured Scottish sovereignty over the Western Isles.
Since then the the island has been the property of the MacDougall's.
The impressive ruins of Gylen Castle, built at the end of the 16th century by 16th chief, Duncan MacDougall, a stunning tall, thin, L-shaped tower of exquisite proportions, in the best position, perched above a cliff between 2 narrow inlets. Sadly it was besieged in 1647 & burned by the Covenants, & has never been rebuilt.
While we could see the castle, because Hazel & walked to & over it 2 yrs ago, we bypassed to get around the rest of the island which I hadn't done.
The interior of the island is covered in heather, with steep cliffs, few gentle undulations, and a stunning coastline.
The tide was out, approx 20 meters from high tide mark, with lots of orange and green seaweed showing face.
One of the tracks we walked was a link in the old drove road from the islands to the west- Mull, Coll and Tiree, to the big cattle fairs (trysts) in the south. Annually, until mid 19th century 2000 or more head were shipped from Mull to Kerrara, then driven across the island & then swim the channel to the mainland.
Along the track, in the middle of nowhere, tearooms emerged, housed in an old farmhouse and byre- also on-site accommodation in a yurt!! Mug of soup later, continued, hearing & seeing an enormous eagle on a one of the cliff tops, then later passing an elderly Scot on his way out (where you might ask?), in his kilt long socks & equally long silver haired plait!
View to the islands in all directions was spectacular, a yachtie's paradise, lots of them seen sailing by, along with the odd stinkboat, and a magnificent reconditioned steam boat.
Highland cattle, Blackface Highland sheep and Highland ponies.
Back at the ferry, we had taken a wrong turn, so headed off overland through shoulder high bracken, true Scottish bogs and wading through the odd hidden stream, we finally ended up where we wanted to be, dinner at the Waypoint Marina and Grill on the marina at the northern end of the Island!! Good thing dress was 'casual' as the high heels would still be bogged.
A large contingent of yachts were assembled on 3 arms of the marina. Great position looking over the yachts and Oban behind with huge mountains framing the view.
Food was excellent- largest scallops I have ever seen, straight from the water, as was my grilled salmon. Wine list was amusing. 'Oliver & Greg' brand dominated the list with varieties from various countries. The waitress did explain that 'Oliver & Greg' wines may not be available, but no matter, they have the same varieties, just may be from someone & somewhere else!
We settled for a half decent Sancerre.
Exciting day, then back to June's home by ferry from the marina (free for guests of the rustic restaurant), then drive to Stronmilchan, near Dalmally on Loch Awe.