Early wander along narrow alleys & tunnels found a great swim spot off the rocks, figured our apartment only by the socks on the line, where the best patisserie/coffee shop is, and where to catch the ferry to Monterosso from. Not a soul around other than the odd local getting ready to open their shops.
It's worth doing the ferry trip along the coast (see pics) from Riomaggiore to Monterossa to get a perspective of the Cinque Terra, and see the impossible cliff faces homes are built into. The area was settled from the sea.
On 25 October 2011 the area experienced severe flooding, buildings and infrastructure were destroyed in Monterosso and Vernazza especially, and many lives were lost. The landslides are still evident, many
places abandoned and many labors of love have repaired the towns.
There are a number of walks along the Cinque Terra, & whatever anyone says, none of them are dead easy!
After coffee, (yes me as well as Hazel), and discovering the coastal track between Monterosso and Vernazza was closed for maintenance we decided to take 'Route 9' straight up the mountain to Monte Soviore, then a loop to descend to Vernazza. The suggested hour has to be for mountain goats, an hour 15 minutes for people with legs the same length. I had a bit of an advantage, Hazel's legs are short, like the rest of her!
We heard orchestral strains of 'Congratulations' as we neared the oldest sanctuary in Liguria on top of the mountain - how perfect!
The Sanctuary of Our Lady if Soviore, Queen of the Sea & Protector of sailors contains church, hospice, & steeple which originally served as a watch tower. It was first documented in 1225.
The statue of the Madonna that is venerated here is from the11th Century, & represents one of the oldest examples of Christian sculpture.
These days the hospice is used for summer schools - accommodation, and refectory.
Our arrival coincided with a youth orchestra on summer school practising & at lunch break creating a happy din in the refectory. See pics.
It was a stunning site with a beautiful Church, still in use, views to the coast, huge old oaks and cypress trees.
From there we climbed even higher on 'Route 1' across ridge tops then down 'Route 8b', traversing the ridge amongst vineyards and bush to arrive at Vernazza, the only town on the Cinque Terra to have a small harbour. We could see an ambulance screaming on a narrow road way below us, and later the crew climbing an impossibly steep path we were due to take later, with a stretcher. Some poor soul was in strife!
It's seriously not for the feint hearted - hot, need water, little shade in many places and tall, steep steps.
Of course we arrived Vernazza after anyone would serve lunch, around 3pm but found a lettuce leaf and a seat to chill before we contemplated the coastal route to Corniglia. Guess what? Steep!
Beautiful but tough walk, with fantastic views along the coast - impossible vineyards and olive groves on steep slopes, lots abandoned, others new and optimistic.
Arriving Corniglia it was time for a drink - we walked a solid 7 hours today.
Corneglia perched in top of an inaccessible promontory, at 100m, and more rural, less tourists than the other villages. Very beautiful coast views, one narrow main alley heading to a shaded piazza with live music.
It was a basil festival - all the shops with basil decorations, and a flyer inviting visitors & locals alike to vie for the best basil pesto next week.
From here, at 8.30pm and still light, we took the steep switch back staircase that drops 100m to the train station for a €1.80 ride back to Riomaggiore, barbecued sea bass and grilled veggies, a glass of smart local wine then home, where the feet have been pleased to escape the confines of hiking boots.
Extraordinary day, spectacular coastline and villages.